Sprayman60
Member
Can anyone ID this already? I'm thinking either diatoms or rhizoclonium. Any advice on getting rid of this please?
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Algae ID?
- Thread starter Sprayman60
- Start date
Sprayman60
Member
On the wood its a fissidens and riccardia mix but the brown algea can become stingy/flossy and breaks up easily
Hi
Looks like a new tank syndrome detritus?
More information would be helpful.
hoggie
Looks like a new tank syndrome detritus?
More information would be helpful.
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Sprayman60
Member
Worth looking into thanks i had it before then rescaped and now its back
Sprayman60
Member
Thanks i think in going to cut the dosing out for a week as that would be the only change I can make at this point, I've increased the flow and lowered the light intensity, c02 is at the right level also
Sprayman60
Member
OK I will continue, I tried to focus on that bu using the plants to fight back against the algea but not luck so far, I started dosing searches excel aswell for the past 2 weeks which has slowed it down
Sprayman60
Member
1. 70L
2. Roughly 3 months but rescaped but only by adding to it
3. Oase 100 thermo
4. Hygger 14w + fluval aquasky 2.0 (changing today for chihiros vivid mini) 8 hours a day dimmed.
5. Tropica soil powder + dennerle aqua soil
6. Yeast DIY C02
7. Profito easy life professional plant fertiliser 1ml per day - recommended dosing
Seachem excel 2ml per day
8. 1st week after rescape daily water change 50%
Last 2 weeks every 2 days water change, cleaning algea
9.Rotala H'ra
Ludwigia palestrina
Fissidens moss
Riccardia moss
rotala bonsai
Eleocharis parvula
Eleocharis acicularis
Hemianthus callitrichoides
staurogyne repensBlyxa japonica
10. Chilli rasboara
Galaxy rasbora
Pygmy cory
Otocinulus catfish
Crystal red shrimp
Blue jelly shrim
11.
So the tank in total is 3 months old, or 3 months since the rescape?
Dimmed to what percentage?
😬 This is a very unstable way of providing CO2 to your tank, there are not many experienced people who recommend using this method. You said your CO2 is the right level, how are you determining this? Have you performed a PH profile? Everyone thinks their CO2 is "good" and almost everyone is wrong, especially if they are new to this.
This fertilizer "Contains no nitrates or phosphates", which makes their claim that it is a complete fertilizer, misleading at best..
You will probably be ok to use it while your soil is still new and rich in N and P, but you will likely experience problems down the road at some point once your plants run out of N and P sources.
The Excel contains glutaraldehyde which is a biocide, an algae killer amongst other things. Im not personally a fan of glutaraldehyde, but it will likely help fight the algae. Make sure to stay within the recommended dosing to minimize the risk to your livestock.
Continue the frequent waterchanges and the manual removal of algae as much as you can. Any rotting or melting plant matter should also be removed. Almost all new tanks go through an ugly phase, which may be mild or severe based on your level of experience and control over the factors in the tank.
The main things I think you should look at for helping your tank do its best, is light levels and CO2, not just how much CO2 you are adding, but also that the level stays consistent throughout the photoperiod, and that you have sufficient flow to bring the CO2 to the plants.
This is not a simple task, but you will be rewarded for the effort
Make sure to include in your reply wether or not you have performed a PH profile
I find it noteworthy that your carpeting plants and mosses are the ones showing the most diatoms. This to me could indicate they are struggling more than the other plants. Carpet plants are usually the first to suffer under lack of CO2, not sufficient flow and/or too much light driving growth that is not sustainable by the other factors. Mosses are fairly low light plants and could be getting blasted with more light than they can handle.
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Sprayman60
Member
3 months old and rescaped around 3 weeks agoSo the tank in total is 3 months old, or 3 months since the rescape?
Dimmed to what percentage?
😬 This is a very unstable way of providing CO2 to your tank, there are not many experienced people who recommend using this method. You said your CO2 is the right level, how are you determining this? Have you performed a PH profile? Everyone thinks their CO2 is "good" and almost everyone is wrong, especially if they are new to this.
This fertilizer "Contains no nitrates or phosphates", which makes their claim that it is a complete fertilizer, misleading at best..
You will probably be ok to use it while your soil is still new and rich in N and P, but you will likely experience problems down the road at some point once your plants run out of N and P sources.
The Excel contains glutaraldehyde which is a biocide, an algae killer amongst other things. Im not personally a fan of glutaraldehyde, but it will likely help fight the algae. Make sure to stay within the recommended dosing to minimize the risk to your livestock.
Continue the frequent waterchanges and the manual removal of algae as much as you can. Any rotting or melting plant matter should also be removed. Almost all new tanks go through an ugly phase, which may be mild or severe based on your level of experience and control over the factors in the tank.
The main things I think you should look at for helping your tank do its best, is light levels and CO2, not just how much CO2 you are adding, but also that the level stays consistent throughout the photoperiod, and that you have sufficient flow to bring the CO2 to the plants.
This is not a simple task, but you will be rewarded for the effort
Make sure to include in your reply wether or not you have performed a PH profile
I find it noteworthy that your carpeting plants and mosses are the ones showing the most diatoms. This to me could indicate they are struggling more than the other plants. Carpet plants are usually the first to suffer under lack of CO2, not sufficient flow and/or too much light driving growth that is not sustainable by the other factors. Mosses are fairly low light plants and could be getting blasted with more light than they can handle.
lights are dimmed to 50%
I have a PH checker in the tanks which is shows green or can I do further checks? I do also have PH liquid test. I use jelatin with the mixture which looks to make it consistent. I do plan to add pressurised C02.
The plant fertiliser I can replace, no problem, any suggestions? 2hr aquarist complete or tropica?
Thanks for the advice I am changing the lighting today so it can be more consistent and will change the fertiliser. The C02 can also be changed, can you recommend a good setup for this size tank?
pat1cp
Member
A word of warning, the Vivid mini is MUCH more powerful than the lights you currently have.
Sprayman60
Member
Haha I understand, hopefully with a change of C02 and fertilizer I can get it on the right track
I looked for a tutorial on performing a PH profile, but couldnt find any, @pat1cp do you know if we have one?
I found this post by @Zeus. with some more details on it
I second Pat's concern about the new much stronger light, I would dim this down quite substantially otherwise youre really gonna be in for a wild ride
I found this post by @Zeus. with some more details on it
I second Pat's concern about the new much stronger light, I would dim this down quite substantially otherwise youre really gonna be in for a wild ride
Sprayman60
Member
Thanks for the info I will have a read through.
I understand with the high light and will be dimmed down, what levels of light would you advise?
Im sorry to say I havent used this brand of light myself, so it would just be guesswork.
I think @Wookii has a Vivid, maybe he can chime in?
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
Definitely one or the other.
They look like filamentous diatoms, but <"you can tell by feel">. Diatoms are often present in recently set up tanks (I'd still regard 3 months as "recently set up" and lacking in <"seasoned tank time">).
Plant growth looks OK but possibly a little bit yellow? so <"possibly deficient in one of essential plant nutrients">. What does your floating plant look like? They have access to atmospheric CO2 and <"first "dibs"> on the light. Plants can only make use of the extra carbon (from the Excel and CO2) if their growth isn't limited by one of the other nutrients.
Either will do. There is a breakdown of cost in the <"IFC calculator">. Fertilisers intended for <"terrestrial plants are usually cheaper">, and safe as long as you use <"them at low dosing"> (they often contain urea (CO(NH2)2)) or ammonium (NH4).
cheers Darrel
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pat1cp
Member
I think I'd start the light quite low........circa 25% and step it up gradually. More can be read here Aquarium LED - Aquascaping Wiki
I'm pretty sure it's diatoms you're suffering with. Lowish light and regular water changes are what (I believe) is required, it will pass in a few weeks. I don't have the extensive experience of some on here, but (I believe) the soil leaches material into the water column that the diatoms feed on. Water changes remove this material from the water column and over time and the diatoms go away. I've no real evidence of this, just bits I've read and personal experience.
Remove as much as you can manually during the water changes too, it's usually quite easy to remove with a syphon and an old toothbrush.
I'm pretty sure it's diatoms you're suffering with. Lowish light and regular water changes are what (I believe) is required, it will pass in a few weeks. I don't have the extensive experience of some on here, but (I believe) the soil leaches material into the water column that the diatoms feed on. Water changes remove this material from the water column and over time and the diatoms go away. I've no real evidence of this, just bits I've read and personal experience.
Remove as much as you can manually during the water changes too, it's usually quite easy to remove with a syphon and an old toothbrush.
