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Above 8

I think it's unlikely. I don't think ammonia is the algae trigger, in the first place.
One of many arguments: Due to dissociation curve of ammonium/ammonia, algae would grow much more prominently in basic environment, and below pH = 6.5 would be near impossible. Obviously, this is not what we observe in our tanks.
I know that ammonia is not considered a trigger of algae by everyone, and it is even used as fertilizer in some soils if I am not wrong. I like the model in which the algae are considered predators, and the local microenvironment on damaged plants triggers them. I don't know if ammonia is a part of that environment, but I imagine some good nitrogen source in the form of high local ammonia can not hurt the algae. I also like to think there is a difference between algae types.

I think it is possible theoretically to have effective passive diffusion of NH3/NH4 through membranes even if the relative NH3 amount is very low (like less than 1/1000th of NH4+ concentration), since NH3 will be converted back to NH4+ inside the cells, thus securing the low concentration for diffusion. What would limit the transport is the increase of the pH inside the cells, and whether there is a coupled transport mechanism that takes care of that (like parallel Cl/HCO3 exchange). I know little about algae physiology, so I can only speculate. However, algae may have specialized NH4+ transporters, making the uptake less dependent on the pH.
it is even used as fertilizer in some soils
It is, indeed. The modern way of fertilizing nitrogen is injecting pure ammonia below the soil surface to avoid evaporation, together with nitrification inhibitors. Ammonium, unlike nitrate, adsorbs to soil compounds and stays in place. Losses are decreased and nitrogen pollution is lowered as well.
I'm using ammonium for fertilizing my plants routinely. My default nitrogen source is ammonium nitrate, so I provide plants with both forms.
the local microenvironment on damaged plants triggers them.
I like the thesis that most algae are, in fact, mixotrophic. So they like the spots where plants are "bleeding". But what attracts them is not precisely ammonia but various nutrients-containing compounds, either organic or mineral.
Planning for a Dutch style tank you say? Recently I have been just thinking if I could start over my dutch tank, I would go for various types of Ludwigias aha (instead of the Rotalas I chose). More reliable presentation of colours and less finnicky.
I was not a huge fan of this style before, but after keeping plants for some time, now I can appreciate a Dutch tank with a bunch of nice, healthy plants. I still prefer the nature style, but I feel I would learn from keeping a lot of different plants. I also want to run in without filter, with just a powerhead (inspired by @_Maq_ ). I actually plan to try a few different rotalas, some of the stems I put in got some pinkish color, and now I am excited. But I still hope, that I'll be able to keep Ludwigias alive as well.
Here's what mine looks like. Bolbitus heteroclita ‘Difformis’ circled in cyan in the photo.
Thanks for the photo, this is what I expected. I would like to have contrasts between the green plants, and the ones I can keep tend to be on the light-green side, exept for the moss.
Vitamin C and Cryptobia iubilans

I have been slowly losing my Cyprochromis fish for a while now. The symptoms can be described as "wasting disease"; the affected fish develop sunken bellies, stop eating after a while, and eventually die. This issue has only affected the Cyprochromis fish and has occurred in four different tanks/setups so far, affecting both the adult fish and the fry. Typically, it happens with one or two fish at a time, and I lose one every ten days or so. I've attempted to treat them a few times, targeting both parasites and bacterial infections, but it has not had any effect.
This week, I lost two of them, a young and an older one, so I sought vet help. I found someone who performed an autopsy on the dead fish. It turns out that he has an academic background in fish pathology and fish parasitology, so it was very interesting to talk to him about keeping fish and fish health. He also used to keep and breed Tanganyika cichlids, so I learned a lot from him.
It turns out that both had vitamin C deficiency (scurvy), and the adult also had a Cryptobia iubilans infection.
Vitamin C is required for healthy blood vessel development, specifically for collagen production in the walls of the vessels. In deficiency, the fish can essentially bleed out due to skin/scale hemorrhages. This was quite a surprise for me, as I had assumed that providing good food should contain all the necessary vitamins they need. I feed good pelleted and granulated foods, as well as frozen cyclops and artemia. I even feed my homemade salmon+spinach food sometimes, and I also accused this food as a potential source of some salmon parasites. I checked my dry food labels, and one lists L-ascorbic acid, while the other does not. It turns out that even if the food contains the vitamin (not just on the label), it may degrade over time. He advised me always to store the food in the freezer, even the dry food. I guess I should also purchase them in advance for only one or two months.
So, the therapy advice I received is to dissolve L-ascorbic acid in ethanol, spray the spread-out food with it, let it dry, and then feed it to the fish. Apparently, the same can be done with medicines, too.
As for Cryptobia iubilans, it's a more complicated issue. It's a flagellate organism that infects the stomach, causing granulomas that eventually block the lumen, leading to starvation and the observed symptoms of sunken bellies and slow, agonizing death. The disease may develop slowly, making it not immediately obvious when someone buys the fish. It seems to be a relatively common parasite in cichlids, and unfortunately, there is no known treatment for it except for aggressive culling of affected species and improving the fish's environment. Many fish can survive the infection, and in my tanks, it was likely the vitamin C deficiency that weakened the fish enough for the parasites to kill them.

So, let's hope that the vitamin C dosing does its thing, fingers crossed.
I doubt it, the infection leads to lumen closure which prevents any nutrient from absorption, and shouldn't be specific to ascorbic acid. The malnutrition symptoms he described seemed to be very specific to scurvy. Also, the fry did not have the infection.
I have been running the new lighting setup for a few weeks, with a higher intensity (70%) in the morning and a lower intensity in the evening (50%). It seems that the thread algae like this setup more. I previously had to remove a few threads during the weekend maintenance from between the mosses when I ran 60% all the time, but with this new setup, I also had to remove a lot in the middle of the week. I believe the 70% was the problem in the morning, not the 50% in the evening. Now I have changed to a 65%/55% morning/evening schedule and will see what happens. Even with the 65% in the morning, I get some pearling:


Speaking of the thread algae, I used to think that it was a pain to pull them out of the moss. Now I think that pulling out H. tripartita is much worse:

View attachment tripatita.jpg

I will never plant H. tripartita and moss next to each other again.

I have not shown this yet; here is my entire rack with the smaller aquariums; I scaped the shelf around the tanks recently:

View attachment rack.jpg

The bottom right aquarium is my to-be Dutch tank. I started the dark cycle about three weeks ago. I will let it run for a few more weeks so I still have time to plan the planting, make the lighting, etc. Interestingly, with the first aquarium, I had this urge to have it running with plants and fish and all as soon as possible, but now I am happy to take the steps slower. There will be no filter, just a powerhead with a shrimp net on the inlet. It has pond soil + filter sand as a substrate. I plan to rescape the other two as well at some point. Those two used to be homes of young Altolamprologus fishes, which have now moved to my 900l tank.

The Cyprichromis fish seem better now since the C-vitamin supplementation, although I have lost a young one. Probably, the vitamin does not solve the problem promptly. Anyway, I moved the young to the upper aquarium, where I raised the NaCl concentration. The water changes will be smaller, and I will not add CO2. Hopefully, a more stable environment will help them.

Regarding the 900l tank, I feel that the plants are now settled in; I guess I just need to wait until the bottom is fully covered:

I planted the planned-to-be Dutch-style tank last week. It has been running in the dark since the beginning of October, so it was time to introduce some plants. I will be adding 60 ppm of CO2 every morning for a while until the plants establish themselves. Afterward, before introducing any animals, I plan to decrease the CO2 morning dose to about 20-30 ppm. With the 60, the levels drop to about 10 by the evening.
I aimed to create contrasts using various leaf shapes, colors, and different shades of green. I guess that would have been easier with more experience. I am curious how this will turn out.
I do not have a filter, just a powerhead with a shrimp net.


Speaking of the thread algae, I used to think that it was a pain to pull them out of the moss. Now I think that pulling out H. tripartita is much worse:
View attachment 212092
I will never plant H. tripartita and moss next to each other again.
Actually, I quite like the look of the moss and the H tripartita growing into each other like that. I think you have a big enough setup that you can make that work.
Actually, I quite like the look of the moss and the H tripartita growing into each other like that. I think you have a big enough setup that you can make that work.
I guess I got into a Dutch mood lately and wanted to see a clear separation, but you might be right, now that you pointed it out, I kinda start to like it too. I do worry that the tripatita might completely take over though, due to its faster growth. Perhaps with careful control, it could still work.