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90P High Light (Plants are happy, Algae are happy too)

Hanuman

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My excuse is that the ability of the aquasoil to lower pH is decreasing over time so its messing with my degassed pH readings which are slowly going up each week
Honestly not sure about this. Your soil is only ~2 months old. Even if you are using TAP water, which if I am not wrong, is known to be very soft in Singapore, the buffering capacity of your soil should not be affected like that. Could it be your filter that is getting clogged hence creating less surface agitation? Also worth looking into your water temperature. Is the chiller keeping the temperature constant?
The second photo shows a very angry Meta (or Pantanal) converting to emersed leaves to protest the CO2 instability?
Yes either that or the fert regime changed dramatically. This happened to me when I cut by half all my ferts over a month ago. But only 1 or 2 stems were affected.
I obtained from another hobbyist Tonina Lotus Blossom (very tiny baby stems) and Cuphea Anagalloidea (again tiny stems), hope they will shrug off the unstable CO2 and start growing....
I cannot talk for the Cuphea Anagalloidea but for the Tonina Lotus Blossom it shouln'd be a problem. Easy plant. They are slow but steady growers.
One interesting learning point about scraping off algae from the glass during water change. Even with 50% of water removed, there is still quite a bit of the scraped off algae in the water column. Since I had a spare usb pump, I put it in the tank and cut a square of 100 micron filter pad (100 micron filter pad is great for crystal clear water!). After a few minutes, you can see the bright green colour. After an hour I removed the square and put a brand new white one. The new square also turned green! Even with my Fluval 307 and 407 running, there is still bright green algae in the water column that is picked up by the 100 micron pad...
Here is a tip for you. I never use scrappers for that exact reason. I use kitchen paper towels that I swipe against the glass. This has the benefit of capturing all (or most) of the algae. You can even use it under water since this type of paper does not disintegrate easily. This is how we do it in Thailandia.
 
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plantnoobdude

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cannot talk for the Cuphea Anagalloidea
Cuphea is a typical lyrhracaea it is a slow grower. But grows steady when conditions are favourable, it behaves similarly to ammannia gold and id say it’s just as picky. Can be grown in sand or soil, I had more consistent and predictable results with sand however.
 

erwin123

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Do you use a PH controller? As long as your injection rate stays constant, you should be fine even with some fluctuation of the PH.
sorry, I'm not so advanced, I just use a timer.

regarding my inconsistent pH .. i guess I don't know the reason, but I had been getting changing degassed water pH readings over the last few weeks (we are talking about 0.2-0.3pH variance which seems small but is huge where CO2 concentration is concerned...)

So my mistake is not regularly taking degassed readings while tweaking my CO2.
 

Hanuman

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sorry, I'm not so advanced, I just use a timer.

regarding my inconsistent pH .. i guess I don't know the reason, but I had been getting changing degassed water pH readings over the last few weeks (we are talking about 0.2-0.3pH variance which seems small but is huge where CO2 concentration is concerned...)

So my mistake is not regularly taking degassed readings while tweaking my CO2.
So I assume you are using a PH pen. Don't get too caught up with such variations on a PH Pen. There is no way this can be accurate specially in a tank where water is never stable from one 1 second to the other. Plus the PH pen loses calibration basically every-time you use it. Even if you re-calibrate it each time it's highly possible you won't get the same result after two or three readings. I think that to make a more accurate profile you would need to use a double junction ph probe and ideally one that logs continuously, else you have to accept some variations as being part of the PH pen lower accuracy and consistency.
 

Yugang

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So I assume you are using a PH pen. Don't get too caught up with such variations on a PH Pen. There is no way this can be accurate specially in a tank where water is never stable from one 1 second to the other. Plus the PH pen loses calibration basically every-time you use it. Even if you re-calibrate it each time it's highly possible you won't get the same result after two or three readings. I think that to make a more accurate profile you would need to use a double junction ph probe and ideally one that logs continuously, else you have to accept some variations.
I use a not so expensive pH probe on my controller, and it reproduces outgassed pH within a few hundredths from week to week. If @erwin123 has these big 0.2 0.3 changes in outgassed water, something more is going on than the pH probe can be accused of IMO.
 

Hanuman

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I use a not so expensive pH probe on my controller, and it reproduces outgassed pH within a few hundredths from week to week. If @erwin123 has these big 0.2 0.3 changes in outgassed water, something more is going on than the pH probe can be accused of IMO.
If you have a controller you are probably using a double junction ph probe which is far more stable and reliable than a PH Pen.
PH Pens are notoriously unreliable and the reading will drift over time even beyond 0.2 or 0.3 point of PH. Easily 0.5 or 1 PH if left uncalibrated for some time. Been there. That's why PH pens need to be calibrated often.
It also depends how long you leave the pen in the water. In some instances I have seen the PH drift for a good 5 minutes or more before it stabilizes.
 

erwin123

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AI0Q9918 24 aug proc web.jpg

I did some trimming and plant removal, moved the Erio 'Vietnam' and 'Japan' to the front, in order to give the plants more space. I moved the Crypt Flamingo to the left in the hope that it will do better in a different location -its not doing so well where the leaves are concerned by the root/rhizome system looks fines.

I hope the T. 'Lotus Blossoms' speed up their growth and I have some sideshoots to propogate.

At the left near the front there is a single stalk of Cuphea Anagalloidea that was given to me by a hobbyist that is colouring up nicely in the upper leaves and hopefully it will be ready for replant. If it adapts to this tank, I think I'll go and get some more.
On the right hand side right in front of the Rotala Blood Red there is a single stem of Rotala 'Orange Juice' that was given to me as well. It has been there for past couple of weeks but is now more noticeable as its taller so you can see its contrasting colour more clearly.
 

plantnoobdude

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I hope the T. 'Lotus Blossoms' speed up their growth and I have some sideshoots to propogate
Those are even slower than fluviatilis. Grow a couple inches per week, I’d say. easiest way to get sideshoots is to let the plant grow to the top of the tank, then just let it stay at the top for another week, side shoots should emmerge from the bottom of the stems, this species does not produce side shoots on its own well.

where is the cuphea? I cannot find it. When it grows bigger it produces side shoots very readily so a 30cm stem can be trimmed into 6 or so pieces and replanted.
The tall stem in the front left? It doesn’t look like cuphea to me to be honest.
 

erwin123

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where is the cuphea? I cannot find it. When it grows bigger it produces side shoots very readily so a 30cm stem can be trimmed into 6 or so pieces and replanted.
The tall stem in the front left? It doesn’t look like cuphea to me to be honest.




AI0Q9925 24 aug cuphea.jpg


yup, thats what the person who give me the plant told me it was... - so I assumed it was correctly ID-ed by him as a cuphea. (need to clean my tank glass before taking photo - too many rabbit hairs....). he also passed me a Rotala Orange Juice which i planted next to the Blood reds... unless this is also Orange Juice.... then oops.... but since the stems were free I guess I shouldn't complain 😅
 
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plantnoobdude

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View attachment 193193

yup, thats what the person who give me the plant told me it was... I have grown many different types of Rotalas and I don't think its a Rotala - so I assumed it was correctly ID-ed by him as a cuphea. (need to clean my tank glass before taking photo - too many rabbit hairs....)
just looks like rotala rotundifolia type to me.
Leaves should be thicker wider and rounded.
1661351476848.jpeg

(Image from flowgrow page)
 

erwin123

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AI0Q9940 31 aug 22 proc web.jpg


Weekly photo.

Nothing much to report. When I was replanting one of the Goldens, I used a dropper to apply APT Fix directly onto the leaves while it was outside the water. It didn't like it and turned pale shortly after will report whether it dies or recovers, at the moment its hanging on.... I confessed I may have used a few too many drops though....
Decided to increase my dose slightly to 1.4ml of APT EI, 0.7ml of Tropica Specialised a day.
 

erwin123

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uvc.jpg

I spent the $30 on this, in the name of 'practical science' and because I have am having the GDA on glass issues and the amount of GDA in the water column after doing cleaning (as evidenced by my 100 micron filter pad turning green). As you can see, it has a shade so the UVC is only radiated in a 180 degree pattern so the fish/shrimp are "protected".

My plan is not to have it in my tank permanently but to eventually use it after I do my cleaning/water change as thats when there will be the max amount of algae in the water column. But for now, I'm doing a 24 hour test cycle to assess its 'range' and efficacy.

I attached it to the side of the tank, and I covered the part of the tank with aluminium foil on the outside (internet says aluminium can reflect some UVC while absorbing the rest) as a safety precaution.

After half an hour, the GDA on glass in the general vicinity (i.e. maybe 2 inch radius from the light source) has turned white, so at least UVC can penetrate a few inches. But GDA more than 2 inches away don't seem to be affected. But a 2 inch range, could be enough to zap passing algae spores...

Will report back after a 24 hour cycle. On the flip side, the lack of range beyond 2 inches might be a good thing where fish/plants are concerned (though the shade is already blocking about half of the light except the light radiating up and down vertically).
 

erwin123

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AI0Q9944 7 sep 22 web.jpg


Weekly update.
I let the R. Wallichii grow too tall and get blown around by the Lily Pipe at the back, as a result, they are all 'bent' after a trim and replant. Hope they can straighten up :)
Other than that, nothing much to report....
Noticed that a dark blue background colour vs light blue colour somehow seems to fool the camera into more saturated reds.. here the colour is a little less 'red' than it actually appears...
 

plantnoobdude

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View attachment 194490

Nothing to report except that I broke my Lily Pipe (it had to happen eventually, it was just a generic glass one so it wasn't expensive). I have a Neo Aqua Rio v2 on standby and I'll replace it when I have the time...
More and more of the Pantanal seem to be converting? I have seen this raised a few times over at different forums by different users, and it seems no one really has an answer for it….

Anyway, tank looks quite good, and those tonina are growing in. I notice the Macrandra missing? I will miss it, a beautiful but very demanding plant….
 

erwin123

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More and more of the Pantanal seem to be converting? I have seen this raised a few times over at different forums by different users, and it seems no one really has an answer for it….

Anyway, tank looks quite good, and those tonina are growing in. I notice the Macrandra missing? I will miss it, a beautiful but very demanding plant….
yes, I think Pantanal conversion happens to 1 out of 15 stems totally random. they grow so fast, including their root system, it must cause them a lot of stress to be constantly trimmed and uprooted. Luckily I have sufficient new plants from sideshoots to replace those that convert - for the time being, I'll keep the converted plants and see what they do.

I replaced the Macandra Narrow Leaf which was too messy with Macandra Mini hoping that it would grow more neatly but Macandra Mini is a whole lot harder to grow than Narrow leaf, so I gave up and anyway, I needed the space for the Crypt Flamingo which is not doing so well leaf wise - but when I replanted it, i noted that rhizome, root system was much larger are quite healthy
 

erwin123

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AI0Q9965 21 sep 22 proc web.jpg

Weekly update
Speaking of the Rotala Macandra, I actually had 2 stems hidden away and one of them is doing well colour wise (left hand side). However, I plan to keep it strictly at 2 stems and trim and toss everything else, so as to not crowd out the Tonina. As the Sphaerocarpa grows taller, the leaves are colouring up but the lower leaves are in bad shape, guess I'll trim and replant soon.
Not sure if its that clear from the photos, but the converted Pantanal/Meta are sprouting lots of new sideshoots, so its just a constant cycle of replanting new sideshoots and then tossing the converted stems.
Some BBA on the Eriocaulons. Will sort those out shortly. Next to the Tonina there is a L.Aromatica 'Mini'. I'm just testing it to see if it lives up to its "Mini' name.

Oh yeah, got to find time to change the broken Lily pipe..... :)
 

Hanuman

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Nothing to report except that I broke my Lily Pipe (it had to happen eventually
Unfortunately, that's the fate of all glass lily pipes and why I got rid of them. The constant care-fullness one needs to have each time you clean them was too much for me. Switched to stainless and plastic. Glass lily's are overrated IMO.
Oh yeah, got to find time to change the broken Lily pipe..... :)
Please change that broken lily pipe though, I am afraid to see some blood soup in your next update. 🤕
More and more of the Pantanal seem to be converting? I have seen this raised a few times over at different forums by different users, and it seems no one really has an answer for it….
yes, I think Pantanal conversion happens to 1 out of 15 stems totally random. they grow so fast, including their root system, it must cause them a lot of stress to be constantly trimmed and uprooted.
This happens to meta as well but I can tell you with confidence it's not a trimming issue. I have trimmed both meta and pantanal religiously on a weekly basis for nearly half a year and the only moment I had them revert (or beginning to revert) was when I had CO2 issues and when I dramatically reduced ferts. That's all.
 
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GreggZ

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This happens to meta as well but I can tell you with confidence it's not a trimming issue. I have trimmed both meta and pantanal religiously on a weekly basis for nearly half a year and the only moment I had them revert (or beginning to revert) was when I had CO2 issues and when I dramatically reduced ferts. That's all.
I agree with you. I've kept the same group of Pantanal going for about 7 years now. The only times I have seen this is when testing the lower limits of ferts. IMO it's a deficiency of some type. Like you said can be CO2 deficiency as well. Mine get hacked down once or twice or week for years and they don't blink.
 
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