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80cm island

Tucker90

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28 Feb 2016
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354
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Derby
Thought I’d start this off as the plant orders been made and everything’s coming together.

Tank: 80x40x45 optiwhite tank
Filtration: oase biomaster thermo 600
Light: twinstar 600EA

Substrate: tropica soil powder
Hardscape : landscape rock, spider wood.

Plant list:
3ish bolbitis
3 microsorum pteropus trident
2x microsorum pteropus narrow
3 Heteranthera zosterifolia
3 ceratoptetis fein
3x ludwigia mini super red
1x tiger lotus
1 x vals spiralis
6x crypt wednittit brown
2 x crypt parva
8x various Anubis
8x various buce
1x hydrocotyle sp Japan
1x hydrocotyle leucocephala
Mini Christmas moss
Mini hair grass (if someone fancies sending me a small amount just for the grass)

Fish:
Galixy rasbora x 20
Salt and pepper Cory x 8-ish
A few ottos
Apistogramma double fire if I can find them might just settle for German rams.
Yellow Sakura shrimp


First go at hard scape:
ae469f51298c06a064fe682e944e35a4.jpg




Added the details and glued most bits that needed gluing
347e44fd3c21b0ee30d3cde3df1725b7.jpg

18a7e69c065121beaafed8875a060cda.jpg



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alto

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Galixy rasbora x 20
Salt and pepper Cory x 8-ish
A few ottos
Apistogramma double fire if I can find them might just settle for German rams.
Yellow Sakura shrimp
Not sure I’d mix Galaxy rasbora and Apistogramma sp. - aside from the very obvious “easy” predation, I wonder how the quite retiring Galaxies would like sharing a habitat with the much “larger living” dwarf cichlids
If you do try this, I’d suggest well establishing the CPD’s and shrimp before adding small juvenile dwarf cichlids (whichever sort you choose - growing up with their tankmates can reduce predation given all other environmental etc factors are optimal)

Corydoras and Apistogramma are also a risk, especially if you intend a breeding pair of Apistogramma

I’ve included some Apisto links in this older topic Old time aquarist coming back (to a brave new world)

Rather a nice article if you missed it The Celestial Pearl Danio: A Cautionary Tale | TFH Magazine

Gorgeous scape
 

alto

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24 Dec 2014
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Plant list:
3ish bolbitis
3 microsorum pteropus trident
2x microsorum pteropus narrow
3 Heteranthera zosterifolia
3 ceratoptetis fein
3x ludwigia mini super red
1x tiger lotus
1 x vals spiralis
6x crypt wednittit brown
2 x crypt parva
8x various Anubis
8x various buce
1x hydrocotyle sp Japan
1x hydrocotyle leucocephala
Mini Christmas moss
Mini hair grass (if someone fancies sending me a small amount just for the grass)
Do you have a planting map?
(I’ve always liked those basic Tropica Inspiration page ones ... I was going to comment on the plant pot numbers etc but then you hadn’t actually asked for that sort of input ;) )
 

Tucker90

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Derby
Not sure I’d mix Galaxy rasbora and Apistogramma sp. - aside from the very obvious “easy” predation, I wonder how the quite retiring Galaxies would like sharing a habitat with the much “larger living” dwarf cichlids
If you do try this, I’d suggest well establishing the CPD’s and shrimp before adding small juvenile dwarf cichlids (whichever sort you choose - growing up with their tankmates can reduce predation given all other environmental etc factors are optimal)

Corydoras and Apistogramma are also a risk, especially if you intend a breeding pair of Apistogramma

I’ve included some Apisto links in this older topic Old time aquarist coming back (to a brave new world)

Rather a nice article if you missed it The Celestial Pearl Danio: A Cautionary Tale | TFH Magazine

Gorgeous scape

Thanks alto,

I knew they would have been a risk with
The shrimp but never questioned that they would be predatory to CPD.

Admittedly I have never kept them, but have had CPD’s since they first became commercially available!

I will look elsewhere for the “statement fish” in that case.

I have kept them with rams in the past, with great success so will maybe consider a could of juvenile rams after getting the CPDS.

Or maybe something along the lines of Tateurndina ocellicauda.



As for the planting map, I will draw a rough one up tonight.

I have an idea of what I want the scape to look like. Taking influence from scapes such as “low roar” which is hands down my favourite scape.

Still struggling to figure out the stems at the back,

Was going to overlap the hetera and the fein and dot the ludwigia around to break it up. But concerned about just having two prominent stems at the back And the tiger lotus getting lost against ludwigia mini super red.

Maybe in hindsight ludwigia green maybe have been a better choice.


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Tucker90

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Do you have a planting map?
(I’ve always liked those basic Tropica Inspiration page ones ... I was going to comment on the plant pot numbers etc but then you hadn’t actually asked for that sort of input ;) )

I would love some input as you can see in the previous post I’m in turmoil with regards to the stems


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Diogo Sousa

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23 Jul 2017
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SE London
I have an idea of what I want the scape to look like. Taking influence from scapes such as “low roar” which is hands down my favourite scape.
One of my favourite scapes as well!
Still struggling to figure out the stems at the back,

Was going to overlap the hetera and the fein and dot the ludwigia around to break it up. But concerned about just having two prominent stems at the back And the tiger lotus getting lost against ludwigia mini super red.

Maybe in hindsight ludwigia green maybe have been a better choice.
I think the Ludwigia Super Red will look nice. You have enough space sideways for both the tiger lotus and the ludwigia so they don't have to overlap? You can keep the lotus small but I don't know if that's what you want?
 

Tucker90

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One of my favourite scapes as well!

I think the Ludwigia Super Red will look nice. You have enough space sideways for both the tiger lotus and the ludwigia so they don't have to overlap? You can keep the lotus small but I don't know if that's what you want?

I wanted the lotus as a mid to fire ground plant, so will be keeping it small and compact with regular pruning.

Will be placing it off centre to reduce symmetry.


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Diogo Sousa

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I wanted the lotus as a mid to fire ground plant, so will be keeping it small and compact with regular pruning.

Will be placing it off centre to reduce symmetry.


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You can layer it so that the ludwigia pops out from behind green stems, by planting it mostly at the back . I think it won't be an issue. :thumbup:
 

alto

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3 Heteranthera zosterifolia
3 ceratoptetis fein
I’m assuming Ceratopteris thalictroides - Tropica Aquarium Plants

Both of these are (very) fast growing stems, you can certainly reduce the pot number (especially if H zosterfolia Tropica 1-2-Grow) and be prepared to trim a lot (especially if unlike Low Roar you follow EI fertilization)

Buces - I’d add these later re possibility of “melt” (which seems to definitely occur more in new setups than when adding Buce to more established aquariums) depending on cost vs shipping

L super red - again if you’re just looking for red to break up the green, likely 2 pots is sufficient (I’d probably choose a Rotala H’ra or Orange Juice etc as the long narrow leaf structure will blend in more)

Maybe spend the extra on more lotus (there’s an ADA (I think found through the Aquajournal rather than video) scape with several that looks stunning)

Depending on where/how you’re planting the Cryptocorynes, I’d use more parva (small and much slower growing) and might add in another green to intersperse with the wendtii brown (wendtii green for similar leaf, growth or lucens/willisii type for a more structured leaf (though like parva, slower growth))
 

alto

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but never questioned that they would be predatory to CPD.
I’d try a smaller Apisto (if you go through the linked journals, you can see which other fish were kept with the A bitaeniata sp. 'shishita )
 

Tucker90

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I’m assuming Ceratopteris thalictroides - Tropica Aquarium Plants

Both of these are (very) fast growing stems, you can certainly reduce the pot number (especially if H zosterfolia Tropica 1-2-Grow) and be prepared to trim a lot (especially if unlike Low Roar you follow EI fertilization)

Buces - I’d add these later re possibility of “melt” (which seems to definitely occur more in new setups than when adding Buce to more established aquariums) depending on cost vs shipping

L super red - again if you’re just looking for red to break up the green, likely 2 pots is sufficient (I’d probably choose a Rotala H’ra or Orange Juice etc as the long narrow leaf structure will blend in more)

Maybe spend the extra on more lotus (there’s an ADA (I think found through the Aquajournal rather than video) scape with several that looks stunning)

Depending on where/how you’re planting the Cryptocorynes, I’d use more parva (small and much slower growing) and might add in another green to intersperse with the wendtii brown (wendtii green for similar leaf, growth or lucens/willisii type for a more structured leaf (though like parva, slower growth))

Thanks alto!

Really appreciate all the advice!

After spending last night and this morning reading up on apisto’s not sure they will be suited!

With regards to plants, the order has been made and was changed slightly.

Ceratopteris thalictroides & hetera : fully understand how fast these grow. These are the support plants in the tank. I will be following a lean dosing regime but still expect growth to be fairly quick.

Personally, rotala is not for me. Hence why I chose L super red!

Most of the buces are coming from another tank, a mix of Godzilla, Thea green and a few other species.

so will likely transfer the established ones over and maybe quarantine the 4 x Thea dark I’ve ordered?! Or I might risk it.

The tiger lotus is already established in my previous tank, and I’m very fond of it.

As always any and all advice is appreciated and considered!


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Tucker90

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Well it’s planted, usual hiccups, floating wood after soaking for a month and been boiled and the inevitable floating plants.

Standard Murky first picture.

Lots of tweaking to be done, will add sand and gravel details once the soils settled in and not leaking out everywhere. (There’s not much, but it’s inevitable)


Will also replant a lot of floaters at the next water change.

The rocks will be staying there for a while till I know the wood won’t float.

dc826dcae23416c94dbbeda007d4b8f5.jpg



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Tucker90

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I will add the second to left piece of would will be repositioned. To a more natural looking place. It lifted and too most of my HZ with it.


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Tucker90

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Lot better with sand,

Floaters re-planted.

Wood altered but still using rocks, just in a slightly more pleasing aesthetic.

Lights are currently at 2% moon light, 15% at 3 50% at 4 then down to 15% at 9 and back to moonlight at 10.

Keeping the photo period short while the plants settle.

Not going to dose anything for a few weeks maybe even a month. And when I do it will be very very lean.

Edifies picture as it’s still cloudy and daytime isn’t the right time for pictures.

Will get better pics in a few days once it’s settled down.

4a7f648984cd869b3830dd823296e068.jpg



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Tucker90

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Am I asking for trouble leaving the moon light setting on the twinstar for a few hours after lights off?

Will it make much difference?

0975999741fc26781e7c6a74613f6b7a.jpg



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alto

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It lifted and too most of my HZ with it.
My favourite aquarium filling experience o_O :wideyed: :banghead:

(happened more than once when I rescaped my 60P last month - I finally stripped it down and rescaped with different wood - though this was very much about how the S selatenensis were using the space
They showed no interest in all the lovely wood hideaways, so new scape is much more open swimming space)
 

alto

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moon light setting
I don’t have Twinstar so can’t comment on them specifically but I do “moonlight” times with ONF Flat Nano + (in the program, so every day) and Kessil (manually as it’s more an occasional thing) and haven’t observed any algae/plant effects
 
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