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495litre - Simple
- Thread starter sgdiscus
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After a bit more reading (especially on a blog who apparently did an interview with Peter Boyce), I decided the odds are definitely against me being successful in converting B. Kishii from emersed to submersed form. As such, I decided to grow Plant 4 as emersed instead.
This is since I have Plant 2 and 3 already at the substrate level and there is little difference in the conditions between theirs and Plant 4's original location.
Plant 4 is also way more developed than Plant 6 giving me a much better chance to save at least one specimen should my conversion fail.
Picture above: Plant 4's new location. Even though it was only in the submersed location for less than 1 week, I observed that the roots had grown longer. That's a good sign.
Picture above: Plant 4 new location is just above Plant 6. Plant 6 is fully submersed 6 to 8 cm below water surface.
Was going to update in Jan 2017... but the deterioration of Plant 4 and Plant 1 leaves changed that.
I decided to adjust their locations.
Caption 1: Plant 1 above was in an emersed location but the tip of the tallest leaf was drying up.
Caption 2: Plant 1 was shifted a few cm lower. Hopefully it will recover.
Caption 3: Plant 4 above also showed clear sign of wilting at it's tallest leaf after I shifted it to an emersed location during water change last night.
Caption 4: Shifted Plant 4 a few cm lower down. Adjusted it such that all the leaves have water running over them. An interesting phenomenon was that the leaves turned from dark colour to lime green as seen in the photo. No enhancement was done to the photo.
There are a few possibilities - (1) that these plants were either grown in a location saturated with water or (2) they were already adapted to submersed conditions from where they came from.
Any views?
I decided to adjust their locations.
Caption 1: Plant 1 above was in an emersed location but the tip of the tallest leaf was drying up.
Caption 2: Plant 1 was shifted a few cm lower. Hopefully it will recover.
Caption 3: Plant 4 above also showed clear sign of wilting at it's tallest leaf after I shifted it to an emersed location during water change last night.
Caption 4: Shifted Plant 4 a few cm lower down. Adjusted it such that all the leaves have water running over them. An interesting phenomenon was that the leaves turned from dark colour to lime green as seen in the photo. No enhancement was done to the photo.
There are a few possibilities - (1) that these plants were either grown in a location saturated with water or (2) they were already adapted to submersed conditions from where they came from.
Any views?
Cayambe
Member
Can we get a view of the entire tank? 
Can we get a view of the entire tank?
Sure! That's a shot of the tank on 5 Dec before I shifted the positions of the b.kishii. Thanks for viewing!
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Cayambe
Member
I like it! Great "little" village
Thanks. I agree with on difficulty of maintaining the white sand. In fact it is slowly turning grey.
As for the discus, I am still thinking about them and the challenges of maintaining them in a scaped tank. I am taking my time and just enjoying the tank for the moment. I know priority will change once the discus are in.
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Plant 1 ( picture below) - Sadly one of the three leaves wilted and dropped. Looks like another one will wilt too. Hopefully it will pull through.
Plant 4 (see picture below) - even in this current position, some of its leaves were wilting as it is exposed above water. Decided to shift it to substrate to save it. Hopefully it recovers.
Caption above - Plant 4 shifted to substrate level.
Plant 4 (see picture below) - even in this current position, some of its leaves were wilting as it is exposed above water. Decided to shift it to substrate to save it. Hopefully it recovers.
Caption above - Plant 4 shifted to substrate level.
Costa
Member
How long has that plant been in the tank? Are these cory eggs on the leaves??
Also, are there yellow bellied cories in your tank? What species is that?
I have these plants since 26 Nov 2016. Not very long. Only about 3 weeks. But it is clear to me that I am not able to provide suitable emersed conditions for them as two of the plants had leaves that wilted away when I placed their leaves just above water.
All those that had been submersed for three weeks were observed to have growth in their roots. None of them had lost any leaves. In fact they are still looking as good as when I first bought them.
I have three types of cories in my tank and they are (1) leopard cories (2) gold laser cories and (3) davidsandis cories.
Unfortunately. .. those are not cory eggs. They are just markings on the plants.
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Costa
Member
Thanks! They very much look like eggs.
On the subject of emersed conditions: I have learned to stop underestimating the adaptation period (although admittedly sometimes its hard to). Where I'm getting at is that your plants may be perfectly capable of growing emersed, but they will have to adapt to the new conditions. As far as I'm aware, bucephalandras do grow emersed in their natural habitat, right?
Do you have long experience with cories? Do you know if they are egg eaters?
On the subject of emersed conditions: I have learned to stop underestimating the adaptation period (although admittedly sometimes its hard to). Where I'm getting at is that your plants may be perfectly capable of growing emersed, but they will have to adapt to the new conditions. As far as I'm aware, bucephalandras do grow emersed in their natural habitat, right?
Do you have long experience with cories? Do you know if they are egg eaters?
@Costa
You are right about the bucephalandras growing emersed in their natural habitat. I suspect that the plants are melting because I was not able to provide sufficient humidity for them to grow properly. Too painful for me to watch them wilting away while their buddies in the water are doing ok..... I don't have the courage to carry on with the experiment of letting them wilt and adjust to emerse conditions as they can be quite expensive! What I might do next time is to buy those already in emersed conditions and put them in my tank.
I have kept cories for more than 10 years BUT I have never been successful in breeding them. I am sorry I don't know if they are egg eaters. I suspect they could be but I cannot be sure because I have many other fishes in the tank.
I did manage to get the leopard cories (in my decommissioned 2ft planted tank) to lay eggs but the eggs never hatched. Fungi grew on them and they turned white. But those eggs that were on the glass remained there until I removed them. I have to search my computer for the old photos.
You are right about the bucephalandras growing emersed in their natural habitat. I suspect that the plants are melting because I was not able to provide sufficient humidity for them to grow properly. Too painful for me to watch them wilting away while their buddies in the water are doing ok.....
I don't have the courage to carry on with the experiment of letting them wilt and adjust to emerse conditions as they can be quite expensive! What I might do next time is to buy those already in emersed conditions and put them in my tank.I have kept cories for more than 10 years BUT I have never been successful in breeding them. I am sorry I don't know if they are egg eaters. I suspect they could be but I cannot be sure because I have many other fishes in the tank.
I did manage to get the leopard cories (in my decommissioned 2ft planted tank) to lay eggs but the eggs never hatched. Fungi grew on them and they turned white. But those eggs that were on the glass remained there until I removed them. I have to search my computer for the old photos.
cookie.dou
Member
The wilting is very normal from my experience with trying to grow plants emersed. This means that you have low humidity - and from Nelsons wabikusa thread he talked about slowly acclimating his plants to emersed growth (getting used to low humidity). From my testing of buce, looks like you need strong light, high oxygen and plenty of nutrients. Good luck! And good flow - was looking at their natural environments and they seem to grow on rocks very close to the river stream.
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It has been awhile.
Did some minor changes and here's the latest update to the tank. I had some BBA issue in early Dec. The BBA problem had since been resolved (https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-journal-for-dealing-with-bba.48003/). Have not seen any BBA growth. I have since increased aeration in the sump, added a small bag (about 300 grams of oyster shells), added a small in-tank filter and another small bag of ANS media. I have also reduced the light intensity from 85% to 70% at a duration of 5 hours. Also tone down the blue, deep blue, violet and UV lights.
Buce Plant 1 ( please see post #51) - Sadly, it did not make it. The entire rhizome rotted away.
Buce Plant 4 (See picture below) - Based on the greenish roots, the assessment is that it is slowly recovering from the initial wilting when I planted it emersed in post #44.
The rest of Buce plants Number 2, 3, 5 and 6. Not much changes. I think very slow growth.
One of the more upsetting news was the death of my male Macmasteri apistogramma while I was away. My mum told me that he refused to eat the following day after I left for vacation. He just sulked at the bottom until he died. It was as if he knew it was not me that was feeding him...... I think it was a mistake to train him to eat from my hand....
Anyway kickoff 2017 with 40 gold tetras, two mountain shrimps and a zebra pleco (could not find a good shot of him - he went immediately into a dark corner and I could not find him ever since he was released).
Picture above: One of the two mountain shrimps positioning itself new the outlet catching the micro particles flowing out from my sump. Have to be careful where I dose my excel.
Picture above: 40 new gold tetras schooling in their new home.
Did some minor changes and here's the latest update to the tank. I had some BBA issue in early Dec. The BBA problem had since been resolved (https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-journal-for-dealing-with-bba.48003/). Have not seen any BBA growth. I have since increased aeration in the sump, added a small bag (about 300 grams of oyster shells), added a small in-tank filter and another small bag of ANS media. I have also reduced the light intensity from 85% to 70% at a duration of 5 hours. Also tone down the blue, deep blue, violet and UV lights.
Buce Plant 1 ( please see post #51) - Sadly, it did not make it. The entire rhizome rotted away.
Buce Plant 4 (See picture below) - Based on the greenish roots, the assessment is that it is slowly recovering from the initial wilting when I planted it emersed in post #44.
The rest of Buce plants Number 2, 3, 5 and 6. Not much changes. I think very slow growth.
One of the more upsetting news was the death of my male Macmasteri apistogramma while I was away. My mum told me that he refused to eat the following day after I left for vacation. He just sulked at the bottom until he died.
It was as if he knew it was not me that was feeding him...... I think it was a mistake to train him to eat from my hand....Anyway kickoff 2017 with 40 gold tetras, two mountain shrimps and a zebra pleco (could not find a good shot of him - he went immediately into a dark corner and I could not find him ever since he was released).
Picture above: One of the two mountain shrimps positioning itself new the outlet catching the micro particles flowing out from my sump. Have to be careful where I dose my excel.
Picture above: 40 new gold tetras schooling in their new home.
Did a quick check this morning... was surprised to see my ph meter recording 8.36. The usual was 7.3 without CO2 and it drops to 6.9-7.0 with CO2 after an hour or so.
I tried to recall what I had done differently during a water change 2 days ago. The different things are:
1. I changed out the filter wool.
2. I removed some oyster shells from the sump. I had put in a bag of 500g oyster shell (from ANS) in Nov 2016. It had raised by ph to 7.3 and had stayed that way until my water change on Monday.
3. I double dosed Seachem Prime as I decided to put tap water directly into my tank via a hose. My usual method is to fill a plastic tub with a hose. The plastic tube is dosed with normal dosage of seachem prime. I would then transfer the water from the tub to a tank with a pump. The new method is about 10 min faster.
Things to investigate:
a. Check calibration of ph meter.
b. Water change and check ph of tap water.
Do you guys have any other opinions? Thanks
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I tried to recall what I had done differently during a water change 2 days ago. The different things are:
1. I changed out the filter wool.
2. I removed some oyster shells from the sump. I had put in a bag of 500g oyster shell (from ANS) in Nov 2016. It had raised by ph to 7.3 and had stayed that way until my water change on Monday.
3. I double dosed Seachem Prime as I decided to put tap water directly into my tank via a hose. My usual method is to fill a plastic tub with a hose. The plastic tube is dosed with normal dosage of seachem prime. I would then transfer the water from the tub to a tank with a pump. The new method is about 10 min faster.
Things to investigate:
a. Check calibration of ph meter.
b. Water change and check ph of tap water.
Do you guys have any other opinions? Thanks
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Shane Puthuparambil
Member
Sounds pretty serious, hope you diagnosed the issue and all is well. I think it might have been your water supply, I would do a check there
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