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33L Yellow Cube

Hi all, I know that photographs can be misleading, but it doesn't look like high light, if anything it looks the opposite. The tannin staining (which I like) will attenuate the light further. They are <"great nutrient sponges">, but I don't think that is an issue in any tank. I'm floating plant fan, mainly because they aren't CO2 (or light) limited and <"can give you a good idea of the nutrient status of the tank".

Which brings on the the million dollar question. @rjugas what does your Pistia stratiotes (Water Lettuce) look like?

cheers Darrel
Hi Darrel,
I was strictly going with high light assumption based on his imgur video. It does seem on the high side to me but I could be mistaken.
 
Went shopping - got more Eleocharis, Rotala walichi and Vallisneria Torta. Discovered that there is yellowish tint in the photos although there are no tannins now. I guess it's because gravel glow in the light. Hard to make photos with more realistic colors.
HxO0YSJ.jpg

KLLZPUX.jpg
 
Looking good. Rotala wallichii is a pretty demanding plant in terms of both light and co2.
Thanks for reminding.

So far:
  • cleaning the filter and hoses to get proper flow
  • regular sucking of organics and water changes
  • regular dosing of ferts - usually one or two squirts of Tropica NPK+micros
  • reduced light
definitely had positive effect on fighting cyanobacteria even without chemicals.

I recently or today:
  • added 2 Neritina snails
  • doubled the light to get more light as there were dark spots in the back. 20W 1700 lumens. There was insufficient light in some spots and I want my plants to prosper.
  • did multiple water change in order to suck as much organics and leftovers as possible. Scrubbed the cyano from root.
  • added osmocote root tablets
  • ordered plants- Rotala russila orange juice. Rotala rotundifolia , Echinodorus tenellus, Egeria Densa (may end in 12L low tech I have).
I also want to try to mix 6000K and 4000K light to get more RED as I see in those WRGB lighting.

Let's see what cyanobacteria will do.

rcSsdGr.jpg

PuTCI73.jpg
 
Increased light brought me some improvements but mainly demanding Rotala wallichi was struggling, there was grow and new side stems but very slow and striving for prosperity competing woth cyano. Other plants made better, but nothing like excessive grow. After a month and half I rescaped using my old soil mixed with new soil. Its cheaper less ammonium rich kind of ADA soil.
Followed a "One-Two Punch" method and applied hydrogen perioxide and later excel only at plants before replanting into new soil.
rSFQzLF.jpg


More photos here:
https://imgur.com/a/Tn7Oc3x

Plants: Eleocharis
Echinodorus tennelus
Ludwigia repens mini super red
Rotala rotundifolia & russila & wallichii
Myriophyllum
Vallisneria spiralis

I am coming to personal conclusion that for water column of 35 cm 20W is maybe a minimum and that I was overestimating LED floodlight power. Also, decreasing or increasing lights didnt have any impact on cyano, at least in my observation. It was there under 10W the same way as under 35W...
 
So I struggled with this tank in failure. Until I got pissed, decided to give up on aesthetics and just make it plant jungle. And also, Estimative Index saved my life here too as for 60F.
Before EI, I was struggling with BGA, but after I got rid of it with peroxide and EI, I am finally happy and it brings me pleasure...
I planted some leftovers from 60F here and bought some new plants in the past like Echinodorus Indian, Limnophila.
 

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