Weekly update. The A. Senegelansis is a big plant and I think the first plant that is standing tall next to the Lily Pipe outflow right behind it. So its doing a good job in helping to obscure the Lily Pipe, usb pump, and Twinstar Nano in the left rear corner. Everything else I've tried gets 'bent' by the water flow. Of course I dread having to uproot it to trim it - wonder how big a root system it has already - to withstand that water flow.
The one in the middle is turning more red than the ones at the side. The Pantanal appear to have revived after stunting when I reduced the dosing to 10ppm NO3.
I had the trim the nice sideshoot of the A. Pedicatella as it grew too tall, but the new growth appears wrinkled. I got the plant submersed from another hobbyist and I suspect that the tank conditions are very different from where it was raised. Submersed to submersed adaptation may actually be more difficult that emersed to submersed adaptation. I'll keep on trying but I might consider looking for emersed Pedicatella to see if there is any difference.
Another difficult submersed to submersed transition is A. Gracilis which had very rich pink leaves. The new growth is quite pale but I'm hoping that it will adjust and turn more red.
The Macrandra has to be trimmed and replanted - I'm surprised how extensive its root system is. Hoping it will complete its conversion from emersed to submersed soon.
I believe I'm at week 5 of my weekly Starxcote/Osmocote dosing. No change in NO3 test colour or TDS profile (i.e. if Starxcote is leaking nutrients, TDS should be rising compared to pre-Starxcote TDS levels). I continue to add Starxcote every week before water change. I'm hoping that the calcium inside can help the R. Floridas grow a bit better. For now, the Floridas are just acting as my CO2 alert system - anything wrong with CO2, they will be the first to go...
My CO2 is still not stable - I was in the midst of tuning and daily profililng to hit target 1.2 but the past few days I had to go to office, so I left the CO2 'untuned' but on the 'safe' side which meant less CO2 than optimal (i.e. as I haven't dialled in a stable 1.2 yet, and I don't want to gas my shrimp by overshooting the target while I'm at work). So there is still a little BBA which I will deal with once CO2 is dialled in.
I shouldn't be increasing light without diallng in CO2 properly, but I have added a little bit to the rear light since there's no algae problem (algae yes, problem no ) at the back of the tank, I've bumped up the rear light power a bit.
For reference, tank water surface to substrate is 33cm
Front WRGB2: 56% (average of R+G+B levels )
Rear WRGB2: 65%
I'm probably on the verge of some major tank crash with this light setting, but until the Wallichii turns pink, I'll keep on going! 🌞🌞🌞
Maintaining my "10ppm NO3 dosing" with 1.5ml of APT-EI daily (which was a reduced dose as a precaution in case Starxcote starting leaking into the water column). As mentioned earlier, I added 0.1ppm EDDHA-Fe via ice cubes into the substrate which seemed to go ok. If you notice the Hygrophila Araguia - its new leaves are quite red - internet says it is one of those that turns reddish with less nitrates