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When I want to thin my balansae I grab the longest leaves and follow the leaf down to the base of its stem and pinch it off, time consuming but it doesn't leave my background looking bare.

You can get good coverage if you chop the moss and mix with a little water, spread thinly and grow it emersed in a tub, epiweb or hygrolon would be good for the wall, http://www.epiweb.se/products.htm

Very difficult to give a correct id when it comes to bucephlandra imo, you may find similar in this thread https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/bucephalandra-all-in-one.26970/ I've purchased a fair few over the years and couldn't tell you the type of any because I threw away the plant labels...

Happens with my stems, I think the plant puts its energy into the new growth which leads to the old leaves deteriorating and becoming susceptible to algae, I hide my cuts behind other plants and hardscape.

Also just had a quick look at your journal, imo distribution of flow may possibly be your issue, the flow at the front of the tank (blyxa) may be too fierce not allowing enough contact between plant and co2 nutrients etc then the flow will be disrupted by the hardscape imho causing issues for...

Possibly, easy way to find out is add an extra teaspoon to your macro bottle and wait a couple of weeks

The affected leaves on your ludwigia look to be below the place you last trimmed them, you could uproot and replant the new stems or trim off those leaves, always worth trimming as close to the substrate as possible imo. You seem to be using the apfuk ei recipe which is a bit light on salts...

Hi mike, depending on how low light the led is will limit the plant choice, anubias Java fern many of the bucephlandra species and cryptocoryne species will do well. limnophillia sessilflora, rotala rotundifola, ludwigia arcuata have done ok for me low tech, also micranthemum Monte Carlo...

Probably diatoms, if the tanks recently setup diatoms is normal, if it's growing well cut the stem near the substrate, remove lower leaves from cut stem and replant the tops in the group, new growth will appear from the cut stems.

Looks like repens to me mark.

I think it does better/ is easier to grow in softer water though I have kept it a couple of times and it's done ok in London tap water, does require good co2 and ferts though, it'll develop pinholes in older leaves and shed leaves if it's not happy.

Hygrophillia pinnatadifida could do well, as long as your co2 and ferts are spot on.

Doh just read your first post, uproot the wallichii trim off the emersed part and replant the submersed top, macaranda and myrophillium should regrow healthy stems from the topping method, cut as low as possible and as long as your co2/light/ nutrients etc are good new stems will grow.

They shouldn't rot if you cut them just above the substrate the plant should grow new submersed stems, are the stems melting now ? Not all emersed stem plants melt/rot IME some just adapt and change to submersed growth, what are the plants you are growing?

Trim the stem as close to the base of the plant as possible, as long as its above a leaf node you will get new submersed growth from that stem.

Possibly just loosing its emersed grown leaves, as long as co2 is good I've found Monte Carlo doesn't require high light, I have some growing in my mini m with no co2 addition almost completely shaded by other plants, grows slowly but grows none the less.

It'll grow tied to rocks or tied to wood, you could trim off the long stems and keep pressing the rest down to keep it looking compact, grows so quick though this can become more work than you want.

Yep

I've found hydro Japan only grows horizontally for me if it's getting enough co2 round the lower levels of the tank, otherwise it tends to grow tall and leggy IME.

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/articles/21-plants-to-avoid-in-the-aquarium Maybe on the list above, good reference point for non aquatics sold by stores.

Hi billiemackers, EI is fine for low techs, just dose half or a third of recommended dose, as your using liquid carbon maybe start with half dose, also your light should be fine I used thee same light over the low tech in my signature, 40x40x30 tank.

Profito doesn't contain a nitrogen or phosphorus source, could be lacking either of these, soft water shouldn't be an issue.

Not sure it'll do well underwater long term if that's the one, I stand to be corrected.

Indeed, should be very tasty with some roast beef .....:lol:

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/par-readings-what-are-good-readings.26134/#post-270951 Good chart in this thread to give a rough idea of light levels

Not sure many plants like interrupted periods of co2 Ryan, have you considered the low tech approach with a soil substrate.

May need more co2 to get things established due to the high temps Tom, crank it up if you have no livestock yet and see if it helps.

Hygrophila lancea emersed in flower.

That looks ready for a trim now Dave ;-) top job :clap:

If you keep the microsorum mini (petite) trimmed its new leaves stay shorter, also seems to stay shorter with higher light intensity, I've just pulled a load out of my 90cm tank drop me a PM if you want some to try for size Tim.

Emersed Monte Carlo flower.

:thumbup: plants look lovely and healthy mate.

With pink tops probably this http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Hygrophilapolysperma'Rosanervig'(050B)/4484

The plant will put its roots down for the first week or so nick then top growth, if drystarting you can up the photoperiod to 12-18 hours if you want quicker/ more growth.

Hydrocotyle tripartita in flower.

I have grown them on wood, slate and they seem especially happy on lava rocks, the roots really take well to lava, difficult to get off sometimes.

Hi mate, liquid co2 should suffice for a small tank, I'd choose maybe 5-7 varieties maximum and try and stick to the smaller leaved varieties, I would try and find a small power head for water movement, http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/crash-course-dutch-style-aquascaping.8713/ The link above...

Ludwigia arcuata ??

Hi kezzbab, I don't use heaters in any of my tanks, temps vary between 18c and 25c through the seasons, haven't found any of the usual plant species to struggle, little less growth in winter, need a little more co2 when it's warmer, I don't keep any hard to keep livestock so can't offer advice...

Emersed Micranthemum tweediei.

A couple of tubs I have on the go from trimmings chucked on top of aquasoil, I only mist once a week with tap water. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Eleocharissp.(132D)/4573 this eleocharis ? If it's only been planted two weeks, it may be the emersed growth dying off, if you can trim off the browning growth as close to substrate as possible, if you could post a picture it may be easier to offer some...

Possibly only has the purple colour while the plant is emersed, green once adapted to submersed conditions.

You could use an off the shelf fert such as tropica's or DIY an all in one fert, http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/allinone.htm I've used the recipie number 3 for DIY tpn+ for a fair few years now with great results.

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/echinodorus-magdalensis-p-2812.html?cPath=255_512 Fwiw very similar to quadricostatus, never had an issue with quality from Aqua essentials or aquarium gardens, personally I would adapt my plant list to use either of the two.

Mini Java fern, crypts maybe which fish are we keeping ?

I would trim the longer stems and replant to fill in the gaps, looks like it's growing well you'll have that full carpet in no time.

Maybe hygrophilia corymbosa

Hoped my dwarf sag would stay about that height, some of it is 30cm long :lol:

Juncus repens could be an option if you wanted slightly finer leaves than Cyperus helferi, sag subulata could be a good alternative to Vallis depends on the look you want to achieve, never been very successful with Cyperus myself, look forward to the journal jordi.

Thanks guys, could be neseae, slight brownish hue to the stem and top leaves are slightly colouring as its getting closer to the light, still happy with bob for now though :lol:

Bob it is then troi :lol:

Hi folks, after an id off this stem plant if anyone has any ideas Untitled by timyapp, on Flickr']Untitled by timyapp, on Flickr[/URL] probably ended up in the tank with some rotala i chucked in from a wabi kusa, thanks in advance.

Slow grower IME too, trimming the larger leaves off can encourage the younger growth to come through.

Hi cai, I personally wouldn't stop all dosing, plants need food to grow, from your symptoms it does sound like more co2 is needed, if this can't be added decreasing the intensity of the lights either by dimming, raising the fixture if possible or covering some of the light source can help lower...

What's the temp of the tank at the moment Martin ? Moss does like it cooler ime mine always suffers through the summer months then recovers slowly through Autumn and winter, around 20-22c is good for moss i find.

Rotala rotundifolia would be my guess or another rotala sp.

This will contain plenty of nutrients, I would mist with RO or tap water and should be fine.

What's the substrate you've planted in ? I don't tend to add any ferts to my spray bottle for emersed set ups and I generally mist maybe once or twice a week just to keep things damp keep well covered and wait for growth.

Think you only missed that sprig of alternanthera reineckii mini :-)

Cat litter Or akadama covers the red clay type look Of a biotope But IMO I would use a tropica or Amazonia type soil Probably I like the dark look they give a tank plus great for plants.

Juncus repens, cypress helfri or polygonum species may also suit the look your after

Aponogeton bulb maybe ??

http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Hygrophilapolysperma'Rosanervig'(050B)/4484 Or this maybe

A few stem plants put out aerial roots, star grass sends out lots trim them off it won't harm the plant, can become a full time job with this stem though.

There you go, top pic is pogostemon Helfri, bottom pic maybe heteranthera Zosterifolia

Untitled by steven charter, on Flickr Untitled by steven charter, on Flickr

Half to a third Ei dose works well for my low techs and I forget a day or two with no ill effects.

Also worth planting your trimmings up in a propagator, that way if your plants in tank go Pete tong you have a fresh supply ready to replant.

I've found it difficult requiring good co2 and a fair amount of light, beautiful plant at its best though.

I'd guess first one peacock moss second Java moss, really hard to correctly ID though.

Pics aren't showing mate.

:thumbup:

http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Hydrocotyletripartita(039B)/4458

Reckon it could spread over the marsilea once it gets going, it can be a fairly rampant carpet plant IMO, plenty of trimming should keep it in check though and give you the look your after.

I've had this happen when I haven't had enough flow through the plant at substrate level of the tank, IMO lack of flow caused lack of co2 and nutrient issues plus a build up of detritus in between the plant blades slowly killing off the plant and inducing fine black algae.

That's grown quite well in a month for Eleocharis IMO, I have to agree with Martin 4x54w is overkill and will probably create problems rather than increase growth.

When tropica first released invitro Monte Carlo it was sold under E.hydropier think this is where the confusion stems from, maybe worth messaging freshwater shrimp sponsor they had some E.hydropier for sale. Ime hydropier is harder to grow than glosso,HC and most other popular carpet plants if...

I have to chime in on this thread :rolleyes: the best experiment you'll ever carry out is a tank full of plants with no livestock IMHO we are all trying to be gardeners but have to CARE far too much about our livestock to get the most out of our plants, IF you Carry out this experiment you will...

But if you read pedros journal it doesn't http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/green-grey-300l-last-day-video.26318/

Prune any growth that's too long for your liking depending on the look your after you may not need to trim it.

Don't think that's R/ rotundifolia, a limnophilia sp definite possibility due to the the leaf edges, but I'd imagine you'd need to grow it emersed and see it flower for a positive Id.

Yes it's actually a fertiliser and contains all the elements you've listed as trace elements plus npk macro elements, I'm happy to say I've used it with great results.

The apfuk fert I linked has both macro and micro, Well worth the money if you don't want the hassle of mixing your own.

Dosing flourish only (trace elements) you'll be missing macro elements, pro fito only includes k (potassium) Your plants also need nitrogen and phosphorus give this thread a read http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ei-dosing-using-dry-salts.1211/ you can order a comprehensive fert from various...

How longs it been planted ?? I struggled with Vallis of all types Ime it likes harder water and plenty of nutrients once I started dosing Ei ferts Vallis grows like a weed in the scapes I've had it in, should note Vallis can also be sensitive to liquid carbon.

Micranthemum Monte Carlo can be grown low tech, couple of times I've tried parva it hasn't done much for months and seems to be a bit of an algae magnet for me.

Look great Martin :thumbup:

There are tabs on the tropica website to change the language settings.

Hi Glenn, Invitro plants can be kept in a cool dark place or fridge for a few days, best to bring them back up to room temperature for a few hours or overnight before planting, normal potted plants can be kept well in a sealed back no need for light IMO, take them out of the bag and give them a...

Crypt nurii is the closet I've seen.

What info are you looking for ? Try google eleocharis montevidensis, similar plant ime.

Is it this one ?? Lovely plant if so but taller grass than the others mentioned. http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Eleocharissp.(132D)/4573

Nice turnaround with the plants, you can cut the excel dose gradually, if your issues return it will indicate your co2 is still falling short, only increase your photoperiod when your sure your plants are thriving, I generally use six hours with t5 lights and find it's plenty.

It's a stem plant, you can trim off the stem and replant the top (two new stems should appear from the base) or cut side shoots when they form and plant them, I kept it in a fluval edge with just the stock lights and easycarbo, it's a great plant.

1st one maybe polygonum sp ??

This does work, I found you need To make sure each node is in contact with the substrate, not as easy as it sounds, rocks can/will damage the stems I used cut up paper clips. I wouldn't say this method gives a more natural look but it gives you more plant mass for your buck so to speak, I think...

Maybe your glass covers are causing humidity issues for your floating plants ??

Little addition to the thread, this popped up in a new setup from reused substrate 3 new leaves in 2 weeks :) Will update with future growth.

Maybe limnophilia aromatica http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Limnophilaaromatica(047BBDT)/4473