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I think those are Gold Severums, which are a bit destructive, but nowhere near as bad as Red Devils.

I think you need a complete fertiliser. API are not very forthcoming with information, but Leaf Zone appears to be just potassium and iron. NT Labs 'boast' that Plant Boost is free from nitrate and phosphate, which are two of the essential plant nutrients.

That's a good read in many ways, but the taxonomy is now very outdated.

If they are aerial roots your water level is too low. :) Roots that are not under the substrate are adventitious roots.

Hmm. :)

Remember our gallons are different to yours @PushinshrimP (I see you're in Pennsyvania).

Riverwood

If memory serves, it took Salvinia four years to cover 500 square miles of Lake Kariba, so quite fast-growing. :)

Just increase your ferts dose, you will soon find out if it was a deficiency, and if it was you will have already fixed it. :)

You can ask anything here, it's probably the friendliest forum on the net. :) Welcome!

There is no phosphate in Profito.

If you can post a pic, some-one will know. :)

Or any species. Tea tree kitten.

I can't see the pics either, just "Album is empty".

That should be OK, I wouldn't expect that much temp difference would be the cause of the problem.

What is the tank temp?

Are those leaves brown in themselves? Or is it a coating that you can wipe off with your finger and thumb? Are the other plant species affected in the same way? What are the brown spots in the pic? What is the flow rate of your ffilter?

It doesn't like being submerged, but it is very tough and takes a long time to die and rot. Some species of Selaginella, eg S. lepidophylla or Rose of Jericho / False Rose of Jericho / Resurrection Plant can also survive drying out for long periods. Rose of Jericho

Variety flore pleno. I think?

A lot of shops sell for £4.99, and that looks expensive to me. :) Quite a few have discounts for buying in quantity. It's worth shopping around. On-line sellers can be good especially, of course, those that sponsor this forum. :) And if you keep contributing, after a certain number (25?) of...

It's one of those that claims to be complete, but "Contains no nitrates or phosphates".

With that fish load you will probably be OK. Keep up with the water changes and keep a look out for any signs of distress or disease. If you see any, do an extra water change and post the symptoms on here.

How many, how big, and what species? All relevant to whether you can expect problems and how to alleviate them. The Water Wisteria will help anyway, and so will the water changes, although bigger ones would help more as @jamiepearson says.

Yes, but as you say eventually. It could be a long time before they are worth dividing.

Anubias would look good on the wood, and it grows very slowly. Maybe one of the small-leaved varieties.

Here's the link; Doc Lots of plant species in it.

I agree that it's probably the Excel, but I would also point out that there are lots of fertilisers that claim to be all-in-one, but are lacking in essential nutrients, usually nitrate and/or phosphate. You might like to check the small print for that.

That seems likely. Mine used to eat a whole lettuce or a whole cucumber in a day between four snails. And a batch of 30-40 babies could eat a lettuce in a day.

And tank details?

It's probably short of ferts. It needs all the other nutrients as well as nitrate, and you have virtually none in the water. You could try Tropica Premium, which doesn't contain nitrate.

Some information about the tank would help. Including details of your fertiliser regime. And pics if possible, of the tank and the Pothos. In the meantime, try not to worry about nitrate, it's not the terrible stuff some would like you to believe. :)

That fertiliser looks fine, I would try increasing the dose. :)

Is it this one? Profito If so, it contains no nitrate or phosphate, two essential plant nutrients. I would switch to a complete fertiliser. The TNC Complete that @jamila169 mentioned is popular with lot of members here, if you can get it in Denmark it would be a good choice. If you can't, you...

There are a few different forms of laceplant, at least some of them are self-fertile, - ie can produce viable seed when pollinated by the same plant. There may be some others that are not. The individual flowers on the spike produce pollen, and are receptive to pollen, at different times, so...

I cut just above the nodes so that the stem staying in place ends at the node. Before planting the removed top section, I trim it to just below a node (from which it will root) and cut off any leaves that would be under the substrate when it's planted. So, at least the leaves growing from the...

I was agreeing with @MirandaB. :) It looks as if @Bonwren fell into a common trap, buying a fertiliser that is called complete when it isn't. I wonder if OP has made any changes and seen any improvement.

EasyLife like to call Profito a 'complete' fertiliser, but it contains no nitrate or phosphate, - two essential plant nutrients. Is the Limnophila actually becoming brown, or is it a brown slime growing on it? Try rubbing it with a finger to see if it comes off. I would reduce the time the light...

It can take a few weeks to get established, get adapted to your tank and develop a good root system. After that it starts to spread.

I think we need a lot more information about your tank, filter, fish, feeding, maintenance etc.

Did it look like this? Cordyline If so, it is a common plant as you suspected, and commonly sold for aquariums, but it is NOT aquatic, will not survive underwater but will rot away.

Black Widows may also get a taste for Angelfish fins.

If you want somthing bigger than Hairgrass, there's Japanese Rush, Acorus gramineus. Green or variegated.

Have you noticed the price? £7.95 for one box including delivery, or you can have two for £21.14 plus £2.49 delivery. :confused:

Premium is the one without Nitrogen and Phosphorus. Tropica Specialised is the one with them.

Putting it politely. :)

I wonder why? Hmm. :)

Phosphate is an essential plant nutrient, so I would stop trying to remove it. The idea that silicates area problem is probably a myth, so I would also stop worrying about them. There are some (very) detailed discussions on the forum about that if you fancy a read. hth

It was probably grown emersed and is adapting to immersed life by losing old leaves and growing new ones that are better adapted to life under water. As it's growing new green bits it's probably nothing to worry about. hth

Light reaching the substrate will be reflected back up into the tank, to a much greater extent in the white substrate tank than in the dark substrate tank. So, with the same light entering the tank at the top, there could be very different light levels nearer the bottom.

sounds dangerous!

I would rather lose a couple of healthy leaves than risk leaving a bit of rotting tissue behind. Any remaining rot can spread through the whole rhizome and kill the plant. If you save the plant, it will grow new leaves. Quite slowly, being Anubias, but it's just a setback, not a disaster. :)

I would use a sharp blade to cut through the rhizome, removing all of the rotting part, and a little of the apparently healthy part (to be sure of getting all of the rot). Then keep an eye on the cut end for any sign of further rotting, cutting more away later if necessary.

There's at least one long thread on here about that, of you fancy a search and a lot of reading. Or spend that time removing some more and dont worry about your sand, - it doesn't dissolve into the water where the diatoms could use it.

I would do it more often, - you need to remove it faster than it grows back. Do a bit every day if you can.

That's a good idea, it will boost their profits a bit in these difficult times. :) A shame it won't help you though. Stick with @ceg4048 's advice, he's not trying to sell you anything.

Yep, that's duckweed. :)

It's usually in new houses (or new plumbing) that pipes release copper. Old pipes build up a coating on the surface so that the water isn't in contact with actual copper.

That's a great idea, even if it's not ideal for the tank in question. :) For this tank you could use a larger floating ring to contain your floating plants.

Similar, but slimmer and pale yellow. The difference between Eleocharis yokoscensis and E. acicularis is in the seed or nutlet, and the perianth brisltes. Enough for some botanists to treat it as a full species, while others treat it as a subspecies. Flora of China Illustration

My belief is that the difference is; when we add potassium nitrate we add just potassium nitrate. When nitrate builds up from fish waste etc, there are lots of other substances coming from the same source. We (hobbyists) can't easily test for these other things, some of which are harmful to fish...

It isn't an issue if they have normal green leaves. It's just with the white variety having almost no chlorophyll, so what little it has needs to work hard to feed the whole plant. And if it's in the rhizome, it will be shaded by the leaves and so it will only get a small amount of the light...

That sound like a good plan. Also I read somewhere that the rhizome and roots are sometimes green and capable of photosynthesis; but that small amount of chlorophyll needs a lot of light to make a useful contribution.

Then you blame yourself, buy another one and try again, and again, then give up and buy a different plant. Four sales instead of one. Of course, I may be looking at it in a cynical way, but I can't think of a better reason.

It looks like a Syngonium, don't know which one, but that's where I would start searching.

Adventitious roots. If that was my tank; 1; I'd be rather pleased with it. 2; I would plant some small Cryptocoryne in front of the Lobelia, hoping to conceal the offending roots. Maybe a brownish variety for contrast.

Climacium dendroides was named Moss of the Year in 2017 by the Latvian Botanists' Association. "Latvia loves all life equally, even its smallest forms." Public broadcasting of Latvia

I'm one of those that doesn't care for the kind of bonsai that looks like a tree on a hill. But I wouldn't call them naff, - some people like them and it doesn't bother me what they put in their own tanks. But I really like your bonsai, it looks like the entrance to a forest. Possibly an...

And joined the choir invisible.

I think @jaypeecee has decided to take the plunge and THE book. But for any-one else following this, who can't justify the cost, here's my impression of the cheaper Kasselmann book. It's quite a bit smaller and the photos are smaller too; pages (126 of them) are 13x19cm, photos of individual...

I think you would like it; there's a lot of in-depth and scientific content which wouldn't appeal to everyone but my impression of you is that you would love it. There's a review here; Book review that might help you decide whether it's worth the price to you. It's rare and sought-after, so if...

Don't do it, - you'll get hooked. :)

Yes, more details would be useful. 28 Celsius is rather warm, most tropical fish and plants do better at 22 or 24. What kind of suckermouth? Some can cause problems. Pine cones can release resin, the best cones are Alder, various Alnus species, a very different kind of tree and cone, which are...

Welcome, btw. :)

You are right, if you can get your plants growing well, they will outcompete the algae. It looks like you are dosing Potassium and trace elements, but no Nitrogen or Phosphorus, which are essential for healthy plants. You could get some more of the beautiful but expensive ADA range, or switch...

The size, shape and colour can all change with different conditions.

If you hook your finger through the handle you can put your thumb inside the neck. When your attention is focussed inside the tank a wet thumb will tell you when the milk carton is getting full and it's time to stop before it overflows.

I suggest you flood them in the small containers. That way, if they die they will not mess up your aquarium. If they, or some of them, survive you can move them into the tank later.

Oops, I was thinking of pH drop, forgot that DCs lag behind. :)

You want the DC to be lime green at lights-on time.

And the people mainly focused on selling you tiny amounts of chemical reagents for a lot of money. :)

Don't worry, she'll stop laughing when she finds out it's her toothbrush. :)

Alternanthera is worth a try. I've had it succeed in low-tech, also had it fail in low-tech. So far I haven't been able to figure out why. I agree with Mr.Shenanagins about getting some that's been grown submerse if possible.

The more plants the better, but three or four bunches would be a considerable help, especially of fast-growing stem plants, such as Elodea, Hygrophila, Hornwort etc, or Indian Fern. Jewel Cichlids are quite big, and messy eaters. Also can be very intolerant of tankmates, so shrimps and otos are...

It looks like diatoms. How long has the tank been set up? They are quite common in the early weeks on a new tank. They often die out sfter a while. Water changes and general good maintenance will help.How often go you clean your filter? How often and how big are your water changes? Also try...

and plenty of ferts, the plant needs enough to grow plus some spare to build up the reserves in the bulb. I would put some root tabs under it as well as water column dosing.

I've got Najas, and never noticed any adventitious roots, - to give them their posh name. Just had a look in two tanks to check, and can't see any.

Dennis Wong’s profile, that tiger15 linked to, says that excessive iron can cause curled or twisted leaves. And that "holes in older leaves can be tied to a number of issues, not just potassium" but doesn't say what those issues are. "Many factors contribute to the health of aquatic plants -...

Well, that one sounds like it would cause trouble. :)

I doubt it too. It doesn't naturally grow floating, it roots in the substrate, has a long stem and just the leaf rosette floats. When you buy a severed rosette it's very hard to get it to root, or to stay alive as a floater.

As Simon says, if you are dosing EI it can't be a nutrient deficency. Also a deficiency would affect all your plants of the same species at least, and most likely your other species as well. So it's most likely a disease, and it would be safest to remove the affected plants, and keep an eye on...

Epsom Salts, cheap and readily available.

The easy way to do that is to bin your test kits, buffers etc. :) 50/50 RO/tapwater will be fine, and easy to do. Nitrate kits, even if they gave you meaningful information, won't tell you when you need a water change, changes dilute all the other animal and plant waste products that you can't...

Welcome! :) There is a thread on mixing you own fertilisers here; https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/diy-fertilizer-formula-recommendation.58029/

Welcome Travis :) I see this thread is pretty ancient, but I'm sure you can find some more to contribute to. There's also a thread for introductions if you'd like to tell us a bit about yourself or your tanks. It's not compulsory though. :)...

Well, if they don't even have a brand name I wouldn't trust them.

Aren't they the same specimen with a bit of growth time between the two photos?

Maybe not :) If it was just seconds it would be ok.

Can you set your timer to give a quick on-off-on-off-on at the start of each photoperiod? So that it ends up on the same mode each time. You really want the intensity to be the same every day.