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That is about electrolysis of salt water, - which explains where the chlorine comes from.

Reservoir Shrimps?

It can drop into the substrate in a resting stage (turion) like a tiny brown bud. And pop up again weeks later.

Welcome! :)

There are a few species of Daphnia that look a bit different but basically similar. Also related genera such as Bosmina.

It was more of a throwback to the old ways of pre-WW2.

Overwatering is a common cause of killing cacti. You won't have to worry about that with aquatics. :)

There are a lot of post about it, mostly by people having trouble with it. But nobody posts "I am having trouble with NOT injecting CO2" :)

Tropica Specialised is the complete one, Premium is "for aquariums with many fish" and, if I remember rightly, you are having a single Betta. TNC Complete is another good one.

"Liquid CO2" is a bit controversial; you can find a few threads about it on here. btw, it's not included in that fert, it's 'recommended' (by the people selling it) that you buy both. 'neutro combo - low tech plant fertilizer' is not a complete fertiliser, - just trace elements and no...

We've had quite a few threads in which the benefits of aeration have been claimed. While browsing for a pond pump I came across this proof of how great the effects can be; You can't argue with that! :) Source

What problems are you having with the maintenance?

You could put it in a tub of water with some Daphnia, to see if it leaches anything toxic to crustaceans.

Welcome! :)

Kallax is not easy to reinforce, or to fix firmly to a wall; it only has a thin veneer of particle board over a paper honeycomb core. Nothing for screws to get a good grip on. I would also be concerned about its ability to stand up to water spillage.

That looks great! I wouldn't worry about the floaters' nutrient consumption. :)

How are your other plants doing?

There's no bad algae. Sometimes there's algae in the wrong place. :)

It should be able to cope with the same load. BUT a; the soil may have increased the load substantially. b; the previous tank, being larger, would have had more plants contributing to filtration. c; the previous tank, being mature, would have had non-filter microbes making their contribution. So...

Welcome! :) Good advice above. If you could post lots of info about your tank (and pics if possible) you'll get lots more.

You can get English subtitles on YouTube. Click the 'Settings' symbol (gearwheel) then click 'Subtitles' then 'Spanish - autogenerated' then 'Autotranslate' and a list of languages pops up; select English or whatever you fancy. Scottish Gaelic is there if you prefer. The translations are not...

It is. :) It shows your personal experience.

But when we've done that in the past, the new lot never seemed any better. :)

Welcome! :)

Sorry if I've missed it further up the thread, but have you done a pH profile? How to

There are shrimp-safe treatments for White Spot available. Esha Exit, and NT Labs 'Anti White Spot and Fungus' spring to mind. If the shop sends you a treatment, check the instructions carefully to see if it is safe. A quarantine tank is a good idea for the future; it will stop new fish passing...

And has the trouble suddenly started, or been gradually building up?

Zero nitrate is not a useful goal. Happy and healthy fish is a better goal to aim for. Fish like space to swim around, the choice of interacting with their tankmates or keeping away from them, and a rich environment to live in. No amount of filtration will add that to a tank that is too small.

Hi @Lee iley, have you posted the details of your tank? Maybe I missed it? Tank info guidelines

Quite a few people do similar, calling it a 'dark start'. That sounds good; some people use ammonia, but I think a range of different organic matter would be better. It might give rise to a more varied population of micro-organisms.

Welcome! :)

As the fungus is usually attached to the wood, I have always assumed that it feeds on nutrients that remain in the wood. This could easily be wrong. :)

No :)

You could get a big bunch of Elodea from a pond shop; it's cheap and fast-growing to increase your plant mass. You can replace it gradually with more interesting plants as and when funds allow.

Do you have low pH and low TDS for the Licorice Gouramis? I wonder if that affects how the Crinum tolerate the Glut. Or it could be something else of course.

You should be aware that some plants, under some conditions do not tolerate Glut. Best known is Vallis, which dies after dosing with 'liquid carbon' for many people. A few have had it survive though, so perhaps it depends on water parameters of other factors. People have also had various mosses...

LibreOffice is freeware, it works with spreadsheets in various formats, including Excel ones, and can export them as .csv files. hth

Perhaps you could arrange some rocks on the outside to hide it? Maybe with some terrestrial moss?

Both essential nutrients, and nothing to be scared of in a planted tank.

For a mature tank. But you have gone from no stock to lightly stocked in a short time. I would keep up a very frequent water change schedule.

There are diatoms that form long strands like hair algae, and diatoms are comon in new tanks. If the threads feel gritty they are probably diatoms. The good news is that diatoms usually clear up as the tank matures.

That always worries me. :) Where do you think they should be? And why?

For some up-to-date information on 'cycling' have a look at this thread; Cycling and the ones it links to. Some more details of your tank would help. :) And photos are good if possible.

One way to deal with that is to consider them a welcome addition to the ecosystem. Then they are not a pest, and then they are not a problem. :) No effort and no cost. :)

A lot of assumptions, when they don't know how many plants we have, what species or how big they are, nor how many fish, what species, how big or what we are feeding them. And NO food we put in the tank should go uneaten long enough to rot away. (It would need to decompose before the plants...

You guess right. Confirmed on the makers' website; FloraGrow "contains no nitrates and phosphates, because it lead to algae growth." . . . which of course we no longer believe to be true. :)

May I ask which one? As there are some that are advertised as complete but are not.

If it were me. I would try switching back. :)

Quite high. I think it may be time for a trim. :)

I had a girlfriend who was allergic to Duckweed, so it's not unheard of.

I've tried a few of those, but never found a good one that doesn't leak. Most modern taps have the end of the spout removable; you unscrew it and reveal a screw thread. Then you can use a screw-on hose adaptor. Like this; Tap adaptor

Welcome! :)

You don't need it, but there are people who need to sell it. :)

If you fancy a lot of reading, try this thread: https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cycling-a-new-tank-with-the-old-one-still-running-anyway-to-speed-it-up.64882/#post-642143 and the ones it links to.

I would stop adding ammonium as the Aquasoil provides it, and too much can kill off the micro-organisms you are trying to cultivate. As @Konsa says, I would keep the temp as it will be when the tank is planted and stocked, and I would do the same with the pH. I want to cultivate an assemblage of...

I keep a small extra filter running in one of the main tanks so it's ready to use for a hospital, quarantine, breeding or fry-raising tank.

I wonder why the makers think they need to put flame retardants in a garden hose. :)

Of course leaves are expensive, - they don't grow on tr. . . . . oh wait a minute. :)

I got a pop-up from that link too, trying to get me to 'update flash player' which is almost certainly going to include malware.

Good luck with the move etc, hope to 'see' you soon. :)

Tetra claim you can fully stock the tank on day one, and I have done that in the past, several times, with no problems. It's a long time since I've wanted or needed a tank up and running in a hurry so I haven't done it for a while.

Unfortunately there are lots of people selling seeds that they claim are for carpet plants but they are not; they are just some random seeds. Not even aquatic plants. You can put your fish and plants in the hospital tank, - use the filter you have, hopefully it is 'cycled' and will continue to...

Most RO units have a dechlorinating stage (such as an activated carbon prefilter) mainly to prolong the life of the RO membrane as chlorine can damage it.

If I remember correctly, one of those chelates loses all of its availability at pH6.5 and the other at pH7, so you could be getting very reduced availability (the closer to those figures, the more you lose). Plus what @MrClockOff says about pH.

Tenso Cocktail uses EDTA and DPTA chelated iron, these are good in acid water, but if the pH is high much of the iron is not available to plants, almost all of it is unavailable at pH7 or higher.

It can, but it would take a LOT to cause any harm; a lot of people dose 2, 3 or even 6 times the recommended dose without any problems. You really need a complete fertiliser, TNC Complete has worked well for me (and others). I would start with the recommended dose. 'Liquid carbon' divides...

Welcome! :) Very few aquarium plants won't grow in inert substrate. You could spend a lot of money and do a lot of work changing the substrate and find it does not help with your problem. If you post lots of details about your tank, and what plants you tried, what happened to them and how soon...

Leonhard Baldner (1612 – 1694) was one of the early pioneers of glass aquariums. Samuel Pepys recorded, on 28th May 1665, being shown "fishes kept in a glass of water" - which people usually assume were goldfish, although he described them as "finely marked they are, being foreign" and some...

Which is funny when he says, "And above all there is simply no “right way” to do things in this hobby." on his home page. :)

There is a comment box at the bottom of the home page.

The tank is looking good. All the best for your recovery.

"Sanity Check Let’s do some simple math here. One PPM per 100 gallons is 0.36 grams. One ppm per 20 gallons is 0.09 grams. Many have established that any decent planted aquarium will reduce the CO2 levels from 10 to 4 ppm in three hours" I think I will stop reading that now.

Have a look here for some modern thinking on silicates; Silicates

If the back isn't also scratched, turn it round.

Welcome! :)

A lot of mechanical timers are incompatible with fluorescents, someimes it's mentioned in the small print on the packaging but not always.

That can work; BBS hatchery

That looks like a copepod, eg Cyclops or similar. A female, as the 'wings' are egg sacs. You might be able to spot some males, - they look similar but without the egg sacs, so a bit harder to see. They are harmless, and good fish food. If you are planning on adding any fish they will soon gobble...

There's at least one way that can happen. If a tank hasn't had any proper water changes for a long time, perhaps if if you're trying to help some-one rescue a tank from neglect, a big change can be too much for the fish that have gradually adapted to the old water. It depends on the fish and the...

I like Salvinia, especially for smaller tanks as it has quite small leaves. Water Lettuce Pistia stratiotes, Red Root Floater Phyllanthus Fluitans, and Amazon Frogbit Limnobium laevigatum are also popular and readily available.

Only a few plants won't grow without injected CO2. Growth will be slower, but, on the plus side you won't have to trim so often. And when things go slower, they go wrong slower too. A definitely a possibility. :) A timer would be good, but you might not need full power. The low light at night...

They like to call those products 'liquid CO2', but they are not. Most (and I think this includes yours, check the label) are based on gluteraldehyde, a disinfectant and biocide. It may help plants to thrive by killing algae, but not by increasing the CO2 level. It also kills some plants, even at...

And photos would be useful if possible.

No, you won't need to clean it once it's in place. :)

Perhaps patience is your firm place to stand: Give me a lever and a firm place to stand and I will move the whole world. Archimedes.

Don't forget that levers are very good for UNbalancing things. :)

Shortage? aquatic compost You could also use an inert substrate under the Seachem, like coarse gravel or volcanic stone. If you have anything like that lying around, you could use what you have. It's a good idea to put the bottom layer in bags (eg tights or filter medium bags) to reduce mixing...

I stopped testing years ago and haven't looked back since. Just done a quick calculation, - I have saved over £4000 with no downside. I wish I'd put the money in a savings account every time I would have been buying test kits. :) I tested every Wednesday. What if there had been an ammonia spike...

Welcome! :) Some more info would help, have a look at this; Algae

Or, as I think of it; the silly new-fangled idea. I'm feeling old. :) Apart from that I agree totally. :)

Hi Harry. :) Is that ammonia reading due to you adding ammonia? Some people are still advising that, but it goes against modern knowledge about 'cycling' a tank. Have a look at this post, and particularly the ones the links in it lead to. Cycling. hth

Welcome! :) Follow Darrel's advice above. Keep things simple. Be patient. Don't chuck poison into your tank. :)

Are the leaves actually brown, or is there a coating of brown 'stuff' on them? If you can't tell by looking, try rubbing a leaf to see if the brown comes off. How long has the hairgrass been in the tank?

It's a great tip, and seems so obvious AFTER some-one has pointed it out. :)

I think Biovert Ultimate is just NPK and is intended to be used in conjunction with Biovert Plus which contains micronutrients. As @Gorillastomp says, you can save money by buying dry salts instead of liquid fertilisers.

If you collect your livefoods from bodies of water with no fish in them you are very unlikely to introduce any fish diseases along with them.

Hi @Nathanh2150 , Om just chipping in for moral support. :) You will get there. I think @Kevin Eades's advice is spot-on, so I won't add to it. :)

Of course you didn't; nobody did. It was only invented a couple of years ago. :)

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.

A bit cheaper to buy it direct; Heiko