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10% (roughly) Mg is the amount of Mg in standard hydrated magnesium sulphate.
Work out as follows, atomic weights for MgSO4.7H2O is 24 + 32 + 4x16 + 7 x ( 2+16) ->230.
Therefore % Mg is 24/230 * 100 -> 10%.
If it is BBA on equipment, take it out and soak/wash it in a bleach solution (unperfumed plain bleach is best). Rinse (if really worried about bleach, rinse/soak in dechlorinator solution) and put back in tank. The bleach kills the BBA, leaving white remains, which in my experience is quickly...
3-4 day extreme blackout, squirting with liquid carbon (or hydrogen peroxide) and sorting the issue causing it in the first place are your way forward.
You will have to try and see unfortunately. Cleary Juwel T8 with no reflectors was low light enough to prevent diatoms. Personally I would go for less than 50% for 4-5 hours for maybe first 6 weeks. Yes 6 weeks, see why I got impatient.
Or live with diatoms and get Otto's, which is what I did...
Too much light for too long...I got it when I first planted my tank, despite starting using T8 tubes with reflectors angled away, I got impatient put reflectors into normal position and bingo...diatom outbreak... Also go it again when I moved to T5 tubes...too much light for too long.
The x10...
If you have fitted the 1000l/hr pump, I found issues in my Vision 180....
1. It eventually compressed the internal sponges stopping flow.
2. The reduced flow caused it to wear the rotor spindle very quickly and noisily. :bawling:
Putting back the original 600l/hr pump head no such issues. Mine...
Vision 180.
The JBLe1501 was chosen as it is the biggest filter you can easily get in (and out) of the Juwel cabinet without having to undertake any woodworking or removing the doors.
Also consider filter running costs. Some cheaper filters are not very efficient and will cost more in the long...
Yes. I bought some more JBL spray bar to extend the supplied spray bar all the way across the back of the tank, as shown in the video.
I also have a 3200l/hr power head, currently on the left of the tank (on right in video) pushing water across & down the front of the tank into the "dead area"...
Been there...doesn't work. The Juwel pump heads are not happy pumping into a spray bay (or any other outlet blocking pipes), the flow was noticeably down, judging by how little dirt collected in the filter compared to normal. So now I just have the standard outlet as well as a full width spray...
Welcome.
I went to Toledo as a kid and 40 odd years later i still have a sword/scimitar in the loft that I bought :) Toledo is famous for its fine iron working and jewelry, is it not. In those days (70's) I just carried it onto the plane as hand luggage.
Any tank pictures.
Hmm.
You need to wait for anything upto 8-12 weeks for a tank to cycle and ammonia reduce to zero before you introduce fish. Ammonia is very toxic to fish.
You ammonia probably reads zero as the bacteria haven't had a chance to grow, this takes weeks.
So, choices are, remove the fish for a...
Is that an Aqua One Nano ? Any details on CO2, ferts etc, please.
This is what I aspire to when I get round to getting my Aqua One Nano....Maybe one day...:wideyed:
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/aquanano40-crshrimp-tank-journal-closed.21455/
Some of the early pictures are missing...
Before starting anything, fill with water and leave...you might end up finding the reason it had been thrown away ;).
The two compartments and hole in the bottom would be for a drain to a sump, sounds like this was a marine tank.
The water overflows into the compartments and out the hole in...
Easy peasy if you have a weir in your tank that drains away. You just continually drip water into your tank and excess flows over the weir to the drain.
More complicated, obviously, is if you don't have a weir and want to add dechlorinator.
I have a Vision 180 and after much much much searching the biggest filter I could find that would easily fit in the cabinet (and easily get out again for maintenance) was the JBLe1501. Most other filters would have to be external to the cabinet or require extensive cabinet modifications in order...
Below is a graph of number of days I get per 2KG FE on 180litres for a green/yellow drop checker on for 8 hours a day . You should get similar.
Guess which bits indicate I had leaks in my CO2 !!!! (23 days for 1 FE !!!!).
Might want to consider CO2 gas as will be considerably cheaper than liquid CO2 with such a monster tank....though you can make your own liquid carbon using gluteraldehyde.
Or addition liquid carbon, makes it high tech.
Well not quite'ish. All driven by light, higher light means addition of carbon source and fertilisers is required. You may add CO2/liquid carbon to low light, if you want to, but plants will not be able to use it (in any quantity) as light is low...
The Juwel lighting units need two tubes to work, you can't just remove one tube.
Try running without reflectors.
As using liquid carbon, this is moving high tech (despite lower light levels), thus will require frequent (maybe not as much as EI high light 50% once a week) and decent fertiliser...
You will fail at the first post, as the standard Juwel Vision 180 lighting (both T8 and T5 tubes) put this tank firmly in the "high light" category, thus source of carbon (CO2 or liquid carbon) and supply of fertilisers and water changes will be required. (OK maybe only T8 with reflectors).
If...
Welcome. Careful these are slightly incompatible discus and plants, though doable. Read the journals about how others have managed to grow discus and plants without the discus demolishing and eating all the plants....
Read some of these to see how its done...
http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=ukaps-articles
Basically, lights, CO2, fertiliser (EI), big filters, weekly water changes, plants and fish. Done....
You can also, on Juwel lights, bend the reflectors around to shade the lights even more. This is what I did when starting my Juwel Vision 180. Tank looks weirdly lit for a couple of weeks until plants get bedding in, but main thing no algae.:)
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