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I have washed in tank equipment, rocks and wood in washing up water to get clean, rinsed well and put back in tank no issue. The minimal amount of washing up liquid left on well rinsed stuff will soon dissipate in the tank.

Years ago I made a slate rock feature of "slabs" of slate siliconed together. I got and kept the alignment by drilling a hole through each piece of slate and siliconing in a stainless steel bolt. Looked fine as a terrace. First issue was it continually attracted algae despite not one bit of...

I to bought a large set of tweezers but found them too heavy to use delicately and in the you ended up getting just as wet as using a small pair. I now use something like these for difficult to reach or mid week emergency replants...

Also the white rock shows even the tiniest bit of algae really well and is a nightmare to keep white.

One advantage of lower temp is solubility of CO2 increases, but offset by the growth of plants being slower.

If that is the filter box type thing: - If using CO2, does filter have enough low to push water around ? Generally needs a flow rate of x10 tank volume. - How are you going to ensure flow gets everywhere ? Dead spots leads to plant health issues & eventually algae moving in.

Well that's sorted that worry then...:D

Basically, as the ply itself is not waterproof, unlike marine ply or similar, you will never be able to 100% seal the wood against water ingress from continuous immersion or damp. The slightest imperfection, screw hole, stress crack, rough edge, imperfectly applied seal will let moisture in...

Unless it is marine ply which is waterproof, which can be varnished no issue. If normal ply maybe varnish only the wet side and you should be OK. But basically you should think and take care, normal wood/ply does not like continuous water or damp, regardless what you coat it with.

Are you 100% convinced the ply will survive the damp and water, especially once the plants cover it ? Varnishing ply in a damp environment is a no no as well as the wood can no longer breathe and black mould patches will form under the varnish. Local shop had a similar tank with plant covered...

Not all liquid carbons you buy are Gluteraldehyde. Excel and other big name liquid carbons are polymerised gluteraldehyde type compounds, which are trade secrets. After playing with both diluted gluteraldehyde and Excel I would say Excel is more potent IMHO. I suffered major BBA outbreak when...

Drop some hydrochloric acid on it and if it fizzes vigorously, it is more than likely limestone. Hydrochloric acid is available on Ebay in 100ml bottles for not much. Might be available in local DOY store as muratic acid, brick cleaner and sometimes drain cleaner. Is fine in a tank, but does...

I would swap the two joints in the vertical pipe and turn the 'T' piece round so the cable comes in from the rear, thus hiding the cable. What filter are you going to use ?

I wouldn't put plywood, even marine ply, in a tank. Waterproof ply is waterproof but certainly not waterproof enough to withstand constant immersion. Could coat it in fiberglass, like people do when making plywood tanks, but I think going a bit OTT. Why not screw the wood to a piece of slate or...

You need to contemplate how you are going to keep your tank clean. I had loose piles of stones in my tank (no longer there) they acted at a barrier to stop my filter washing the substrate away. However the issues were: - Detritus collects under the stones so at weekly water change they need...

Yes your lights might be too higher temperature, resulting in washed out looking plants...they look white'ish rather than green. Also as you are using CO2 you must make sure you have sufficient filtration/water flow. Rule of thumb is a flow rate of x10 tank volume, so in your case 360...

Just carry on. Liquid carbon in your tank is an extra carbon source (and keeps algae down ?), as well as using CO2, so a bit missing won't be an issue.

Because the carbonate has undergone pressure and heat whilst under the earth and the salt has been reacted with other constituents. Digging around on Google reveals 0% NaCl in limestone. Anyway if it did survive, most would be embedded in the rock, thus not available to be dissolved in water.

You only really need the at least x10 turn over when CO2 is on.

I bought a cheap (£20 odd, China special) wave maker, but basically it was very noisy. In then end I put it on a timer so that it went off at 7pm so we had a quiet evening. After about 9 months it failed and started running backwards !! .Supplier promptly replaced it, however this one lasted a...

3415 lumens is quite high for your tank size. Converting to T5HO lumen output, with a 39W T5HO giving 5000lumens, so that's 3400/5000 * 54 = 36W T5HO equivalent. 62 litres is 16US gallons. Thus your are over 2W per gallon (US) and thus into high light tank growing region. So you will need...

What is your regulator type. The type below are notorious for a problem called end of tank dump. This is where as the CO2 tank pressure falls (all the liquid CO2 has gone) the regulator loses regulation and empties the remaining CO2 into the tank. Not a problem with a CO2 aerosol but major if a...

1. You have cycled your tank have you ? As you probably know you need to leave your tank for at least a month or two before adding fish. 2. You need to find out why your CO2 emptied so it doesn't happen again. 3. Algae is almost always caused by too much light, killing the plants for the ferts...

Using the jets in either corner you will end up with dead spots in the tank, especially at the back. Also the jets will be pointing at each other, basically fighting each other, again wasting "flow". You really do need spray bars to get a circular flow across the whole width of the tank, leaving...

Buy this. http://www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk/bundles-starter-kits/bundles-4/starter-kits/ei-starter-kit.html Mix. Add to tank. Done.

Soak in warm strong bleach for a day or two. Rinse and scrub well. Either put in tank or if worried about bleach soak in strong dechlorinator overnight before use.

Better than gluing, if you rock base is not flat, trim/grind it using an angle grinder. I wrapped one of my rocks in cloth, gripped it in my workmate and used an angle grinder with stone cutting disk to trim away the uneven bottom. Did it outside on the lawn as is a bit of a dusty...

Very dangerous....as if it doesn't explicitly state aquarium safe will/may contain fungicide which will prove fatal to fish. Mind you years ago when silicone first starting replacing putty in steel framed tanks, standard silicone was used even if it had fungicide and fish generally lived.

JBL Haru works fine bonding rocks together. http://www.jbl.de/en/aquatics-freshwater-products/detail/4077/jbl-haru

No. Absolutely essential. Read the bit about drop checkers. Plants take light and CO2 and fertiliser to make sugar as their starting point to making their structures. Read this to see how most people get their CO2. I pay £10 for 2Kg...

Of which is 99.9% expensive water. I prefer to pay for fertilizer rather than expensive water you get a hell of a lot more if not buying water. I can get nice pump bottles for 30p each if I think I might need to pump .

Adding reflectors makes the light levels even higher light, and things grow and move faster and so do the mistakes and it all going wrong a lot quicker. The light drives plant growth and if you don't supply enough CO2 (or other carbon source) and fertiliser to match the light level, the plant...

Lower light levels immediately. All the beautiful tanks you see here are high light levels, spot on CO2 levels and suitably large fertiliser dosing. Put CO2 on 2 hours before lights on and off 1hour before lights off. Plants are made of carbon, therefore need it. Add fertiliser immediately as...

I have a Vision 180 with 35W T5's & CO2 and these are definitely in the high light region. At start up, you need to seriously reduce this light level or else you will "vaporise" the plants and end growing superb amounts of algae. Reduce lighting to 4 hours or less. Reduce light level by...

I used plastic from plastic milk bottles, just ironed out a bit to keep flat. Folded the bottom to make little flaps to keep steady whilst fiddling. Unfortunately all gone from my tank as the sand/substrate I so carefully banked up all "went flat" and the plastic edges started appearing, so...

I used lead strips (10ft from Ebay) to hold my bigger stems down either wrapping around the roots or just looped over lower stems. After couple of weeks when plants were routed I removed them.

Ady34 made a wonderful shrimptastic tank using an AquaNano 40. http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/aquanano40-crshrimp-tank-journal-closed.21455/

I've used the JBL Haru http://www.jbl.de/en/aquatics-freshwater-products/detail/4077/jbl-haru to glue my rocks together. It's dark grey colour and bonds very well. I washed the rocks, left to dry then baked oven (50C) for an hour before assembling my rocks. Left 24 hours and plonked in tank...

Aquaessentials quote 20Kg for 100litres, so 60Kg :eek: for 300litre. And at £2.50 per Kg is £150, bargain...:wideyed:

You can get silicone remover, which I have used a lot (and not just on my tank). This is my current cheapest favourite. http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/17175 Cut and remove silicone as much as possible and apply the above remover and leave. The remover breaks the...