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Hi all, Interesting, you shouldn't have iron (Fe) issues at this point. Manganese (Mn) deficiency would be an option, but it is really rare. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, That definitely looks to be an iron (Fe) deficiency, small, pale (chlorotic), new leaves are <"pretty diagnostic">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I think that might be <"iron (Fe) deficiency">, it is only really iron, and manganese (Mn), deficiency that causes pale new leaves. I'm still away from home, but look up <"Ivory allure"> on UKAPS. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, They look pretty healthy. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, That looks pretty good. Soft water makes things easier, mainly because it is <"much simpler to add things to water">, rather than take them away. You will need to swap to <"complete fertiliser"> at some point, <"Tropical Specialised"> would do. As you have <"floating plants"> already...

Hi all, Fair play to @George Farmer and <"Tropica">, it is an interesting "warts and all" video. I see that we <"share the same opinion"> about <"variegated plants"> like "Anubias barteri "Pinto". <"Anubias barteri var. nana ’Pinto’ - Tropica Aquarium Plants"> cheers Darrel

Hi all, My initial thought was that it might be a <"low light issue too">, but it is really difficult to judge light levels by eye. Could you give us a picture of the tank? and tell us about your fertiliser regime etc. It will help us by giving a bigger picture. Final question do you know...

Hi all, I wouldn't reduce the plant mass any. Plant health look fine, but I'm going to guess that you have more light and nutrients than your plants fully utilise. So you need either more plant mass or less light intensity. I always have <"more plants">, but I have <"no sense of aesthetics">...

Hi all, Have a look at @GHNelson 's tutorial <"Using stem plants as a filtering aid at Start Up!">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It is my choice for a bomb-proof plant - <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I was thinking about Pogostemon stellatus, right colour, wrong flower <"https://www.guitarfish.org/category/emersed-plants">. It sounds like a composite (Asteraceae), but I can't think of a suitable one. Ageratum spp. have a suitable flower, but it is in a terminal raceme etc. Eclipta...

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. It looks like Gratiola sp. <"https://idtools.org/appw/index.cfm?packageID=2197&entityID=10317">. but the flower description would seem to indicate an Alternanthera sp. <"https://idtools.org/appw/index.cfm?packageID=2197&entityID=10276">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. It looks good and healthy. It is a Ceratophyllum sp. It it is either <"Hornwort" (C. demersum)">, or "Soft Hornwort" (C.submersum submersum). It doesn't really matter which you have, but C. submersum branches more frequently and has a "fluffier" look. You see C...

Hi all, It is one of the mobile nutrients (plants can move it to new leaves, that is why they are green). Most nutrients are mobile within the plant, which makes diagnosis more difficult. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I pick up any aquatic moss that I find. I'll be honest they mainly have dwindled away over time, possibly because the tanks are too warm and possibly because all our local streams are calcareous and the tanks are rainwater. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It looks to be somewhere near <"https://beta.floranorthamerica.org/Drepanocladus_aduncus"> or <"https://dev.floranorthamerica.org/Leptodictyum_riparium">. Moss naming is problematic, you really need an <"idea of the leaf"> (microphyll) cell structure and ideally a capsule as well. A...

Hi all, It looks all right, I think @GHNelson may be right. It looks like a deficiency symptom on the Hydrocotyle. Plants can only make use of the added CO2 if other <"nutrients aren't deficient">. It is very likely to be nitrogen (N), purely because that is the macronutrients you aren't...

Hi all, Honestly you need to offer them supplementary vegetables all the time, they need to eat pretty much constantly or they become moribund and die. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It looks like the plants have been iron (Fe) and/or magnesium (Mg) deficient in the past and the new foliage is healthier. <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about? - When the Duckweed Index breaks down."> cheers Darrel

Hi all, They <"only really eat diatoms">, so much of the algae isn't really of any interest to them. This is also why you need to supplementary feed them with vegetables etc. Snails are more efficient at <"browsing the biofilm">. I like <"Red Ramshorn (Planorbella duryi) snails">, they are...

Hi all, It isn't over-watering. I think it is a combination of <"fertiliser burn"> and the opportunistic "fungal" disease caused by Pythium <"damping off disease">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, No, that belongs to @Parablennius. Personally I'm still suffering from "Frogbit Envy" cheers Darrel

Hi all, Plants can only make use of the extra CO2 if none of the mineral nutrients are limiting plant growth. The water change is reset, that removes the organic compounds, waxes etc. that plants create, as well as any "excess" nutrients. In the long term that isn't sustainable situation. You...

Hi all, What do you mean? <"Talking sh*te"> is my unique selling point. The one I really object to is companies <"deliberately aiming to mislead"> when the actually do know the answer. cheers Darrel

Hi all, That is why I needed a floating plant for the <"Duckweed Index"> it takes CO2 (and, nearly always, light) out of the equation. Once you've excluded them? That only leaves the mineral nutrients. If you end up with this <"C02 ISSUES">? You know that you are supplying all the nutrients...

Hi all, The problem is that they aren't supplying all the nutrients that plants need. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS, We will try to help you. Plants can only make use of extra CO2, if all the other nutrients required for plant growth are available I'm guessing that this is your problem. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, Not necessarily a bad thing. @ElleDee found similar while she did <"less tank maintenance than usual">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. <"Cryptocoryne x willisii">? I really like <"Bolbitis heudelotii">, it will get big eventually, but only really slowly. Over time I've got rid of all my stem plants, and I just use a floating plant <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?"> as my "stem" for...

Hi all, Perfect, that <"looks like a light issue">. Try the light for another hour (eight in total) at 100%. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I might try something that is tolerant of lower light. It isn't exactly a carpeting plant, but <"Cryptocoryne x willisii"> is fairly small and <"shade tolerant">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Plant health looks OK. I'm guessing the algae is the early growth of <"Black Brush Algae (BBA)". Do your Acaras eat snails? I going to assume they do, but if they don't? Red Ramshorn Snails (Planorbella duryi) will control BBA growth <"in the longer term">. Specialised or Premium...

Hi all, The same as the others really, I guess it is either <"Cryptocoryne parva"> or <"C. x willisii">. The <"deep green colour"> probably makes the latter more likely. Have a look at <"Cryptocoryne Parva Carpet">. This is Cryptocoryne parva, from that thread and I think it is always "leaf...

Hi all, They are fine long term as an emergent, they will also persist on very lean rations. <" This is 2021">, you can just see the Epipremnum plant stem behind the light (it runs along the window sill behind the tank) and this is the <"same plant in 2024">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I'd see what happens, but I don't think it is a potassium (K) issue or that there is any reason to get a test kit. If you were really interested in a value? You could get a <"potassium (K) value from a lab. via ICP">. If you still wanted a test kit, you need the LaMotte one, from...

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. The diatoms (brown patches) are really common in new set-up and will decline over time. The pearling green algae is actually a good sign, <"green algae are plants"> and it just shows that they are fairly happy. Your tap water is really good. I'd guess it is from a...

Hi all, I agree. We've had this conversation with @Mick.Dk (from Tropica) in the past <"Low Tech Plants"> I also agree with that. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Amazing how some words trigger you. <"Hyperhydritic">, that reminds me of my <"short lived career in Horticulture">, not only did I struggle <"with growing media">, I also had some, equally traumatic, project work with <"tissue cultured Roses">......... cheers Darrel

Hi all, I think that is at least some of the problem . A couple of times I've looked at the pots in "Pets @ Home" etc and they have been piled on top of one another in a stack, like tins of tuna. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Same for me - <"What about In Vitro plants?"> & <"Invetro plant question"> and that is another one, even if you ignore the cloned aspect, these are clones selected for <"their ease of growth emersed"> and ease of propagation, not for their long characteristics underwater - <"Tropica...

Hi all, If you go to <"plant details - Tropica Aquarium Plants"> or the <"Flowgrow"> (example <"Calliergonella cuspidata">) you can search for plants from E. Asia, Europe or N. America etc. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Yes, there are pictures in the linked thread. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. Your suspicions are right, <"definitely not an aquarium plant">. A few people have <"grown it as terrarium plant">, and it is fine as house plant. These are @sciencefiction 's plants. cheers Darrel

Hi all, A medium sized Cryptocoryne sp.? They would need a <"lot less maintenance">. Possibly <"Ideas for stems">? I like <"Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia">, it is very low maintenance. You are more than welcome to some of mine, once the weather warms up a bit. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I think you are definitely right. It really depends on the plant. If you think of something like <"Davidia involucrata"> or Ivy (Hedera helix) or <"Magnolia campbellii"> or a <"Walnut tree (Juglans regia)"> it has to reach a certain state of maturity before flowering commences. I...

Hi all, I'm going to guess that flowering isn't a stress response in Bucephalandra spp. (or other Aroids). The reason I say this is that they are long lived perennial plants and don't have a finite life span. It is different for "annual" plants (by this I mean <"monocarpic or hexapanthic...

Hi all, Christel Kasselman (@Christel) is another long day advocate - <"Lighting duration">. Those <"were the reasons for me">. The tropical day is ~12 hours long and <"the sun is incredibly bright"> and I'd rather look at a lit tank than an unlit one. I'll guess that I also differ from...

Hi all, I'd be <"really, really surprised"> if that wasn't grazing by <"a Loricariid catfish">. Do you <"feed your Otocinclus"> any green vegetables? French Beans, Zucchini, Capsicum pepper, Cucumber etc. If you don't? I'd start and I'd expect that will stop happening. Plant health looks...

Hi all, I think <"Columbo"> may have missed a trick <"with their advertising">. How about: cheers Darrel

Hi all, There aren't really <"Aquarium fertilisers">, these are just fertilisers with the magic word <"Aquarium"> added, but if you did want to buy an Aquarium one? Then there are options that work, the problem is <"just the cost">. If I was going down this route <"TNC Complete?"> <"That is...

Hi all, What @_Maq_ says for iron (Fe), there are some images and an explanation in <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">. I'm also going to link in @keef321 thread, <"Cloudy Water Hazy Water and Algae!">, it has <"some fantastic"> before and after photos. Yes, you need RO, DI or...

Hi all, @BRJP1 you are in luck. I've just finished <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">. It (the "Duckweed Index") uses a floating plant (to take <"CO2 availability out of the equation">) but the <"fertiliser"> and <"deficiency symptoms"> sections are <"applicable to all plants">. The...

Hi all, Can you staple <"the rhizoids"> (the wooly brown bits below) to the wood? Don't staple the rhizome itself. <"I used to do this"> and by the time the <"staples have rusted away"> the fern <"will have attached">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Quite tricky to know how hard your tap water is in the wider Liverpool area, you have everything from <"soft to very hard water">. What does your water company say? Our water is hard (about 17dGH / 17 dKH), but <"I use rainwater in the tanks">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Unfortunately @Akwaskape doesn't come to the forum any more, but their tanks show what you can do low tech and with <"hard, alkaline water">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Have a look at <"Cryptocoryne Parva Carpet"> & <"Low Tech Moss Carpet"> I know that both @LondonDragon and @Ian Holdich have had tanks with successful moss carpets in the past. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I only have "floating" stems now, it makes the <"occasional thin a lot easier">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I'd <"turn them up as well">, that way you would know lack of light isn't your issue. What makes me think it might be light is that the internodes on the Hygrophila polysperma look quite long, and <"etiolated growth"> is often <"caused by low levels of PAR">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It won't be <"light intensity">. If it is the new leaves that are pale? It may be iron (Fe) deficiency <"Should i start to fertilize?">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It is just you need to supply all of the essential nutrients for plant growth. If any nutrients are missing all together? You don't get any growth. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, I can now definitely say it isn't chlorophyll. That looks like iron (Fe) deficiency, which would account for the reds shining through more strongly. The reason that it is likely to be iron (Fe), rather <"than nitrogen (N)"> etc., is just that the <"new leaves are pale">. cheers...

Hi all, It does and also anthocyanin production is likely to be enhanced in more intense light, so you would expect the plants would appear more red, rather than less red, but I can't think of another option*. We have another (inconclusive) thread where the same process was observed, but not...

Hi all, I don't think it is that the red pigment (anthocyanin) is appearing and disappearing. I think colourless means green (no red colour)? and I think that the red colour is <"masked by chlorophyll"> production during "lights on". cheers Darrel

Hi all, Those really. I know that @M.eremin <"wants to use"> an <"aquarium"> fertiliser, but I think that is, at least some, of his problem, the <"Seachem products"> aren't supplying enough and / or all <"of the plants requirements">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Just don't try. <"They don't actually have any roots"> and want to grow as a sub-surface floater. It is a bit like when people try to use <"Riccia as a carpet"> etc. doomed to failure in the long run. You might want them near the bottom of the tank, but they want to be at the water's...

Hi all, Most "house plants" would do. or a Spathiphyllum? cheers Darrel

Hi all, Schismatoglottis spp.? @hydrophyte grew some species, <"Cryptocoryne Riparium"> other than <"Schismatoglottis prietoi">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, No Tilapia, are <"what you want">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, <"Tricky">, @mort's suggestion is probably the best we've got. We have some threads <"Removing Duckweed (Lemna minuta) - any natural solutions?"> & <"managing shrimp & duckweed"> and a <"business opportunity"> <"Curious case of no Nitrates? Expert opinion needed.">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Welcome to UKAPS. I think a few people have found that it does better as an epiphyte, and it is also a plant a lot of people have struggled with. However you grow it, it wants plenty of nutrients, including CO2 <"Anyone figured out H.Pinnatifida?">. It really wants to grow emersed...

Hi all, I'm guessing that it doesn't really like life under water. @Alex Papp <"grows / grew it">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, This <"TNC Complete 5L"> should be better. If you are adding CO2, the plants can only make use of that extra CO2 if their growth isn't nutrient limited by the <"deficiency of another nutrient">. Personally I'm <"too mean"> to buy <"Aquarium"> Fertilisers. Have a look at the links in...

Hi all, I'd change it back. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, That is <"my guess">. Because it is all guess work the purveyors of "denitrifying" filter media can really say what they like, because no-one can prove their lying. The only real way to tell would be with labelled isotopes. There is a paper documenting what they would would need to...

Hi all, Probably true. Seachem will tell you it will, but <"I'm sceptical">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It is this photo, to the left and right of the circle, you can see the new growth on Hygrophila difformis and Myriophyllum sp. I'd be <"very surprised"> if that wasn't an iron (Fe) availability issue. I wonder about this value, iron availability should only become an issue as you get...

Hi all, It is the anion (bi)carbonate (CO3 / 2HCO3-) that you are interested in, the cation (Na+ or K+) isn't important in terms of the dKH, but potassium (K) is a plant nutrient and sodium (Na) isn't, if that makes sense? You have to use an alkali metal as your cation, they are the only...

Hi all, Strange, using the "plants can't lie" principle, you have some iron (Fe) availability issues. It is only really iron (and), potentially manganese (Mn)) deficiencies that cause chlorosis in new leaves. Because you say "13% Fe" that will be FeEDTA, but you shouldn't need a "stronger"...

Hi all I'd agree with that, family always comes first, and I think the tank has stood the test of time pretty well. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, That looks promising <"Nymphaea gardneriana">. You might be able to tell by leaf shape. <"Jameson's Waterlily (Nymphaea jamesoniana)">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, They love Echinodorus bleheri. I've not had pin holes, but I've never added CO2. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It is even worse for me, I often find that I obviously meant to link a post, but looking back on it, I have no reason why I thought it was relevant at the time. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I think you could be right. It isn't Utricularia gibba. I've got plenty of that. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, They (and your Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)) look pretty healthy. I know what you mean, but I think it is too green and the branching doesn't look quite right. I'm pretty sure it is a <"Green Algae">. It looks like it might be a <"Cladophora sp.">, they have <"branching...

Hi all, Definitely could be. You can see that here: <"Consistency Deficiency">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It might be <"Potamogeton gayi">? cheers Darrel

Hi all, That sounds like it might be bacterial. If it isn't diatoms then I think the brownish colour must be because of ferric iron (Fe(III)), but after that I don't know. I'll try and ask a colleague. cheers Darrel

Hi all, They could, because you live in the SE of the UK you would be likely to have <"high levels of PO4--- in your tap water">, but you may have <"precipitated it all out with the iron (Fe)"> addition (from the "API leaf zone") - <"Iron phosphate">. Personally I tend to make all my decisions...

Hi all, I'm <"sure you do">. Basically all plants need all of the <"fourteen essential nutrients for plant growth">. You could use an <"aquarium fertiliser"> like <"TNC Complete"> etc. or a <"hydroponic"> fertiliser. Have a look at <"Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed Sodium Free TEC or Solufeed...

Hi all, The Fissidens sp, moss is unlikely <"to be one in cultivation">, and your mosses may even be new to science. Unfortunately naming bryophytes is <"notoriously difficult">, and even the ones native to W. Europe <"maybe wrongly named in cultivation">. The first place to look would be at...

Hi all, Not really, I'd still just wait all the time they look healthy. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, It maybe Hemlock Water Dropwort (Oenanthe crocata) - <"Hemlock Water Dropwort, Oenanthe crocata">. That is a common habitat for it. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Agrostis stolonifera (<"Creeping Bent">) would work, but it grows like mad. If I was going to try a UK species, I'd go for a Sedge (Carex spp.), rather than a grass, mainly because most grasses are going to get big quickly. <"Carex pseudocyperus">? might be an option and is easily...

Hi all, Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant) would be a good one. I have an "all green" one if you can't find it anywhere else. You could try <"fresh Lemon grass"> (Cymbopogon citratus), 60p for two in Sainsbury. I've grown it like this <"a couple of times">. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Unfortunately that is ferric (iron (III)) oxide, and <"of no use to us">. That is the one you want, and it is the <"one in the calculation">. Personally I'd just add 1/2 a teaspoon and that should be about right. <"FE EDDHA"> cheers Darrel

Hi all, You just need the percentage iron (Fe) in the Fe EDDHA and your tank size. Just for this calculation, I'm going to assume 6% Fe, 800 litres tank size and that you want 0.5 ppm (mg / L) iron. One gram of Fe EDDHA contains 0.06 g of iron (Fe) and there are a thousand milligrams (mg) in...

Hi all, You should be able to get it fairly easily, hydroponics is a big industry in the Netherlands. I might start with ebay? cheers Darrel

Hi all, You are welcome. It will <"only be the new leaves">, that grow when iron (Fe) is plant available, that will be green. The plant can shuffle iron around, which is why iron deficiency effects new leaves, not old ones. Cheers Darrel

Hi all, I think they are both <"iron gluconate based">, and that may <"be you problem">. Can you get another chelator for iron? I like <"FeEDDHA">, but it tints your tank water. The problem with iron (Fe) is that it forms a lot of <"insoluble compounds">, particularly in hard, alkaline...

Hi all, It looks like chlorosis of the newer leaves, which is very suggestive of a deficiency of available iron. Rotala spp. look to be <"very prone to this">. cheers Darrel