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Just... Wow!

I'd say with a plant mass such as that, your lighting is excessive, for the time being. Cut it back to one tube, let the roots develop for a couple of weeks, then stick the bulb back in if you wish. Also, as far as I'm aware, silica can be a cause of diatoms (I've read!) so this could...

Your lights sound too high. How long has the aquarium been established? Diatoms? Why not maintain current lighting and dose liquid carbon too? Then if you see an improvement, you'll know it was too much light :) Post a picture. You wuss! :lol:

Adys got one pretty close, about 3-4 foot away if I remember correctly. He'll be the best bet, although I don't think it was close enough to 'spill'.

Use a toothbrush, it will do a much better job of removing this. HC does like light, but if it cannot get enough nutrients / co2 to utilise said light, algae will appear. Reducing light will definitely have an effect, but adding more KNO3 May help too.

It's just to do with the very low plant mass in comparison to nature style aquarium aquascapes. I would definitely raise the light and possibly even remove one bulb altogether. You'll get slower but much more manageable growth.

Looks like diatoms. Have you tried reducing your light intensity? With the relatively low plant mass in there, the light looks very bright. Manual removal is best with a pipe. Its a Common occurrence in pre-mature aquascapes until plants settle. Then It just seems to disappear on it's own.

I get a bit of it in my shrimp tank, which has fairly high lighting, but should have low phosphate levels and is not currently dosed with ferts or Liquid carbon. I'm not too bothered about it, because the baby shrimp seem to enjoy grazing on it.

The green algae is acceptable in tanks, but many deem BBA unsightly (with good reason! :lol: ). The best way would 'remove' or kill the algae would be to dose liquid carbon with a syringe, directly onto the individual clumps of algae, with your filters turned off. This will cause the algae to...

Try dosing the BBA with liquid carbon with the filters off for 10 mins. then do as fox fish instructed, I too believe the more changes, the better the BBA will get.

Sorry, completely forgot to mention Fauna. Lol. Yeah just add them well before lights on or turn off co2 and lights on day of introduction, to ease them into the co2 rich environment, as your plants may not be producing much oxygen until you get them growing healthily.

The brown stuff on grass is diatom algae, increase your water changes too. And suck out the algae carefully with the hose. It will eventually go. I would also recommend dosing your tank with liquid carbon, to help alleviate the problem. The lily pipes should create enough flow but a spray bar...

Your lighting is nuking your plants. Thus causing the algae in your tank.Scale it back To 4 hours a day. And increase 15minutes per week. This will result in more healthy growth. Think covering yourself in butter and standing in the Sahara in the height of day.

Its exactly the same stuff, just not leeching from your sand in copious amounts.

Hi mark, Salt or boiling isn't really necessary, hot water will suffice. There is no risk of this spreading either as its the residue left on from manufacture. This will go away with a rinse or two in hot water id imagine . Cheers,

Are they brand new mark? This is fairly normal, and I'd expect that its from silicates present from the manufacturing process. It will go away if you remove and wash a couple of times. The 'clear' suction cups form a powdery substance on the surface too, sometimes with red spots too. Cheers,

Ive got a 27w ADA solar over a 20 litre without co2 , w/ hair algae. Give a flock. :)

Or go easy carbo. Simples

Canasten duo

you can buy a JBL solenoid too! JBL are reliable and covered by a warranty

JBL m001's are good if you want to stretch a bit

Ha never can tell the difference, I thought cardinals had more red? Who knows!! Anyway, I would keep the lighting as low as possible, although its better than doing nothing, Easy carbo isn't anywhere near as good and cheap as co2. The stronger your lights, the more you'll have to add. Thus more...

Sounds alright to me mate, you can increase up to full dose if you deem necessary. Just be careful, if you overdose, potentially all your neon tetras will be gone.

Dose as per bottle, don't go any higher until your satisfied you understand how it works enough. As the flora content is low, Maybe do a half initial dose, for a week see if you see an improvement, then up to recommended dose. But lighting still needs to be addressed until you can get a...

I did this too. If your ultra paranoid, after leaving the bleach and water to kill it off, add some fresh water and seachem Prime to neutralise the bleach. Shrimples.

Wow.. 4x80 watts without co2 is asking for problems :o

:lol: eyes out.

Re: Algae and java moss won't grow Good luck with it all mate, just remember, do everything slowly & make sure the fish are ok before trying to progress. Fish need time to adapt to higher co2 levels, so gradually turn it up over a period of days. Turn airstone on at night as a precaution...

Re: Algae and java moss won't grow Try and purchase a Co2 Solenoid valve if possible. Turning co2 on and off manually is an ok method, till you forget one night..! Also, one day you could turn it up to 1bps, the next 1.5 bps, then the next 1.2bps etc. This would induce Algaes such as BBA or...

Re: Algae and java moss won't grow Yeah, I agree. The moss in my shrimp Mini M setup also seems to have started taking off now. Even the Fissidens seems to be flying.

Re: Algae and java moss won't grow Be careful upping your Co2 threefold while running it 24/7 mate. :)

Hello Tim, Pictures paint a thousand words, so if you can, then please get a photo up. Do you have a Drop checker? If so do you keep it towards a very light green? We need to know your lighting stats too. But I suspect that the plants are experiencing co2 deficiency in a tank thats lit 9...

Tap the tank as hard as you can with a hammer. Film it, and I will paypal you a 5er :)

Hydrogen Peroxide is used on wounds and the like to remove or clean organic matter. Yeah for a few minutes it works eating away at organic matter, for example, you can use it on algae outbreaks like BBA by spot dosing. Just turns to good old water after a few minutes. :)

Try tapping it with a hammer.

Bang bleach on it with a toothbrush. If that doesn't shift it, your knackered. :lol: Yeah, use a decent amount of Seachem Prime to neutralise bleach when rinsing though.

Are you sure they are not new Java Fern Shoots? this is how they propagate, by growing leaves on existing leaves, which then detach from the main leaf.

I cut right back on the light and upped co2 on my diatom algae, did the trick. Was sunlight coming through the window killing me like.

I would probably recommend a good water change and blackout. I noticed the blackout had an effect on my setup when I was getting a lot of this stuff. Get a toothbrush and GENTLY brush the algae, it should come off really easy. Just be careful not to pull hairgrass out. Mine had to be done...

I would definitely up the co2, is it possible to take a photo of positioning in the room? Because if thats light then it wont do you any favours.. A 24/7 lower BPS rate could possibly help, as tim stated, that this technique helped him get rid.

How long are the lights on? Its a co2 / lighting related issue I think..

Light levels are too high mate. Not necessarily the tank light itself, could be due to sunlight, or ambient light. I had this stuff, it grows everyday back to full force until I reduced the light from window and Grobeam & upped the Co2. Check my tank in my sig for details, it was one of my...

Some say they can't get Ottos to eat anything but algae, which is why some die in newly established aquaria. On the other hand, some seem to be able to chuck in anything and the ottos will have a go, blanched vegetables being a particular favourite. So its just dependant on the ottos themselves...

Definitely sounds like diatoms mate with that much lighting, I'm pulling loads out of mine every day, amazing how fast it grows isnt it!

Looks like diatom algae?

Agreed with everything, all relating to co2 injection isnt it CeeJay? If he upped the co2 and nutrients he could keep his current photoperiod if desired. Although thats a lot of light, I would definitely do as CeeJay suggested.

I would have thought so, obviously every tank is different. Do you have a drop checker? Ideally the DC should be very light lime green. This shows a good level of dissolved co2 in the tank. Poor Flow distribution can lead to algae problems, again this is also due to low co2 in areas...

Low co2 input?

Ive got a bit on my new Iwagumi setup. I Read somewhere stem plants floated on the surface help to get rid of it? I believe it was one of Ceg's posts. Im sure you'll get it sorted, Green thread over BBA anyday. BBA is horrendous ha. Good luck :thumbup:

That fungus you get on wood, is due to the sap leeching. And it kicks the blahblahblahblah out of Crystal Red shrimp. Covers them in a jelly like substance and I believe it suffocates them?