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Defenitely not E. amazonicus. Most likely E. palaefolius. The oval leaves (as when plant is sold) are emerse form. Leaves grown submerse, will be this form. It will probably have a tendency of wanting to grow very long leaves to regain emerse form above water surface. Picture indicate this...

Look like Pogostemon stellata. Goes well with the "pink reflection" and need of strong light.

I have this C. "affinis" too. I do not believe it is a C. affinis.... and defenitely none of the true C. affinis types, I have encountered over time. Growth habit and -speed, combined with other features, strongly indicate this is a C. wendtii variety. BUT... I have not had flowers...

- good to know.... Thx.

I can help ID the mosses: Moss on wood is Flame moss. Other moss is patches of Weeping moss and patches of Christmas moss.

50x50x90 tank should do. It can grow quite long leaves and many of them. Lifespand of the individual leaf is not that long, though, and should be removed when looking less than perfect - so the plant will not be as dominant as ex. some Echinodorus will. Your bulbs should actually be showing...

In the 3 m. Tropica tank (unbelievable lots of video's of that tank:rolleyes: ;)), I had ramshorns and bladder snails in "controlled amounts" and they really did not harm the Barclaya during the time, it was growing there. So it is possible - but I have had Barclaya demolished by the same two...

Barclaya longifolia does not need especially high temperature, neither to grow or flower. 22 degrees celcius will do fine!! The flower is really something to behold..... like taken out of "Jurassic World"..... Personally I would not call the roots "sensitive" in any way. They may start a bit...

Generally Blyxa's are "bad travellers" - they respond fast and bad, to being send around, usually arriving in quite poor condition (they recover really fast, though, given proper conditions in aquarium) . This make commercial distribution difficult. Tissue culture is the way to go.... and...

We all know that look by now, Darrel........ It's Corona on a stick.......

Mort, your plant could have been Lagenandra thwatesii....... but there are/have been very many variations of "peace lily" grown in nurseries. Quite a lot of such plants vere sold for use in aquaria. Therefore it was more likely a Spathiphyllum sp. (= peace lily).

Most likely Echinodorus 'aquatica', but there are several others with that type and size of leaves. Most Echinodorus will thrive with very low levels of CO2, so I doubt this is the cause of the very pale leaves. I recommend adding a nutrition capsule right under the plant, when planting in...

To the best of my knowledge, the name on the products correspond with the content. Tropica is honestly not as fast as may be wished fore, to up-date the scientific names.

To look like that picture , the plant must grow in the wild (or similar) lightwise.

Basically the plant will feed through water, so it can easily grow "epiphytical". It can not attach to smooth surfaces, though. I have had cuba Hem. grow, twisted inbetween very branched wood (ex. Azalea aka 'bonzai') and it wilingly attach to rough rock (ex. Lava). Adrie Baumann...

It is the egg-coccoon of a species of small spiders, often living in nursery greenhouses. Will not survive submersed.

The A. 'rosanervig' is defenitely not more difficult to grow, in my experience actually a bit easier. It does need a decent light and some added CO2, though. And yes, the pink colour is very vibrant. It tends to grow shorter internodes (=space between leaves), making the impression more...

Well, they obviously did something: grew roots to support producing new leaves!

:D:D:D No, Tropica does not sell Taro ;). Tropica does not have anything on stock-list, with that root-structure, so I honestly think there must be another source for this plant. The closest resemblance would defenitely be the Anubias gracilis, but it never ever grow that kind of tuberous...

Defenitely not C. pontederifolia, either.

I do not think you have an Anubias there, and defenitely not A. gracilis. I'm pretty sure, you have Taro (=Colocasia esculenta) or a very similar species. Do a quick Google search on Colocasia esculenta root, and you will probaply see same root structure. The sap of Taro cause allergic...

Look exactly like submersed form of the plant commercially sold as E. muricatus. (This is not a botanical valid name, though). It is an easy, undemanding type of Echinodorus, growing well in relatively poor light and non-CO2-enrichrd water.

I am actually not really able to go in to this discussion in deep........sorry;). I will, however, recommend reading a bit "inbetween lines" of the posts of dw1305 and Wookii. Besides the laboratory knowledge, production development and specific demands of most plants, I can add the ultimate...

That is defenitely not an acceptable look,!!! Riccardia is quite good at "recovering".......but it will not resurrect from the dead!! To find any hope here, you could focus on the tiny, green parts sitting on the plastic-container instead of the mesh. These look alive, and can grow.

This is defenitely a possibility. A mix could happen at the actual potting-process (though very unlikely), if the two types have been handled right after each-other (even a tiny bit of both types will grow, if accidentially introduced to the pot of another plant). There are ofcourse cleaning...

The above is a general description of safely trimming any stem-plant. Almost all stems will respond well to this. Hyg. pinnatifida, however, is really, really - REALLY - good at growing new shoots from any internodes (=the point on stem, where leafs are attached) left after a trim. And...

Continuosly cut away all the big, upright shoots as low as you possibly can. These are the dominant ones favourized in growth, so once removed the plant will concentrate on growing the lower, skinnier ones. These tend to start off horizontally, thereby making the bushy effect. Sooner or...

I'd say some Rotala type, too. The two Darrel mention are the two most obvious. It is possible to grow it like this (on a piece of wood), but I really recommend you to plant directly in the bottom-layer. It will grow much better there.

Doesn't really look like either....... If it is definitely no other possibilities, than those two - my money would be on the 'Monte Carlo'.......... but it really does not look right. - No offence meant, but is this by any possibility something, you got from a local pond??

My experiences with this plant are defenitely not good. I can grow it on emerse, but I have from several years of trying, never had it continue to grow the variegated leaves submerged. Most of the plants just quietly die off, and a few manage to go back to the lanceae (or 'araguaia')...

My all time "hard-core" favorite moss is the 'Spiky'. It is a Taxiphyllum (like your standard Java-moss) and very, very adsptable to different conditions of environment in an aquarium. Appearance is not far from the ever-so-popular 'christmas moss' but so much easier to grow. Any moss will...

Lim. sess. is one of those, that just works opposite........ :). This plant grow longer internodes (=stem between leaves) in stronger light and added CO2 and shorter, more compact growth in lower light and no added CO2. What you can do, to get a more dense appearance, is plant more stems...

It is the remains of the thin, outer layer of the Bucephalandra flower.

As allways: it help understanding what you see, if you know the facts and history behind ;). Tropica showtank 8 weeks: photage of Rotala 'green'show a fully in-grown group at its peak, carefully maintained up to photage and left untouched for a few days. All visible branches exposed to full...

Ambulia (=Limnophila sessiliflora and Limnophola aquatica) do look quite similar to Cabomba, but are defenitely not "tough" in texture......... They are so fast-growing, that they may work well for your purpose, though. Both tolerate quite wide range of parametres in the tank, but the...

Your stem-plant is Hygrophila polysperma. A very easy and fast-growing plant. This one clearly needs more "food", judging by newest growth.

This is more to indicate some deficiency......

When a large group of plants look and grow healthy (as in OP picture and at Tropica) and a single or few plants grow variegated leaves........ my first thought is not a nutrition deficiency, but a problem within the specific, individual plant. When I experience this happening in production of...

Pogostemon helferi quite often grow these white or partly white leaves. Sometimes entire braches are totally white. They allways go back to all green, given time. By far most of commercially traded Pog. helferi originate from tissue cultured plants and it seem the tendency of variegated growth...

Juncus repens have much of the same look, but grow slower........

Blyxa japonica IS a true aquatic plant........ so you will NOT be able to grow it in a dry-start, however high humidity you provide. This is the exact reason it is not available as a potted plant from nurseries. Tropica have spent a lot of time, testing and effort, to have Blyxa japonica in...

Looks like Cordyline australis, popular called "cabbage tree"..... and yes, it is a flower-spike.

Pretty sure you have Crypt. 'flamingo'. Leafedges seem to have a tendency to curl slightly. I have never seen Crypt. 'petchii' this pink - it is ususlly getting more lethery brown with intense light, not pink. There is, however, a Crypt. 'petchii pink', but this is ususlly a more...

Look like Fargesia nitida (= Black bamboo). Since a lot of the bamboo types fhave fowered frequently, there are a lot of new varieties on the market (from different seed-plants) that differ more or less from original parents. I honestly don't know if Fargesia is amongst those. The original...

Your bush is a Spirea, of some kind. Here in Denmark they are popular named "snow-drift-bush". Mine blow petals in my (tiny!) pond, too, but I never noticed this to harm my goldfish. It is quite typical for Spirea, that the new growing main-branches appear a little different. The flowers...

Schismatoglottis prietoi is often forming very, very dense groups. It can be torn apart by hand, though (takes some "feeling" and "courage" combined with determination and strength, admittedly). This is usually much less damaging than using a sharp tool. Like said above, the individual...

Polysperma and arcuata are colouring up as they are supposed to do, growing in good light. Polysperma will likely stay only a little coloured, but your arcuata will likely gat a much more intense colour. The macrandra 'green' I know of, tends to grow a bit yellowish - often even slightly pink...

Short answer: yes ofcourse....... Longer answer: Poducing new growth - including sideshoots - require the plant to invest stored energy. A plant already growing poorly, does ofcourse not have much energy to store (otherwise it would be growing better already) and therefore not energy enough to...

Yes, this is how Eleocharis (hairgrass) spread. You can pul out the runners easily - they do not have very strong roots. You can then re-plant, where wanted.

Actually the "worst" to do aerial roots submerged, are Ludwigia's, Rotala's, Hygrophila's and Alternanthera's - and Limnophila sometimes. Most other stems are not very prone to do them. Usually the stem is much more likely to do aerial roots when growing horizontal as if growing vertical...

Defenitely not Aponogeton. Defenitely Cryptocoryne. - and almost certainly Cryptocoryne usteriana var. morco (which is probaply the most common in trade).

1/ is almost certainly Hygrophila polysperma. 4/ is absolutely defenitely Aponogeton undulata. This is the only (relatively) commonly sold Aponogeton species, that grow these plantlets. Aponogeton undulata is a very nice and vigorous plant and growing this species is very similar to Aponogeton...

Aponogeton ulvaceus is one of the very big Aponogeton species - it can (and likely will !) grow leaves about a meter long...... and an enormous amount of them, really fast. This takes a lot of resources from the plant, so it will benefit a lot from a fertiliser-capsule inserted right under it...

Echinodorus bleherii (=amazon sword) is actually really, really difficult to grow out of water, as a private person. Your chance of success is much better, if you plant the little plant directly in the bottom-layer of your tank. If you want to help the young plant, give it a...

Supposing we're talking Blyxa japonica. If so, plants in good health and vigorous growth will actually be very good at throwing new branches from even very hard pruned stems (usually even a few cm. stem without leaves). It is always a good idea to re-plant some of the off-cut tops inbetween...

Hi Steve Look like you have got the broad leaf variety: Microsorum Pteropus var. latifolius. It is a relatively big plant, but also very beautifull and quite undemanding. Seem to be more common from Asian retailers, these days, than European ones. It is quite common for this one, to grow...

Hyg. pol. 'rosanervig' is a variety of Hyg. polysperma...... so each plant will have the potential/risk of producing branches, that will go back to original (=standard all-green). This is the case with all varieties - some varieties of plants are more prone to going back, than others. The...

Rotala H'Ra has a growth-pattern quite like Rotala 'green' - they both grow much like a "fountain", upwards and spreading out. They also both have the habit of growing some stems, that will tend to bend downwards and grow horizontal. High light intensity will induce much more horizontal growth...

Nymphea gardneriana is by nature a "standard, big" plant, easily covering a square metre of surface......... BUT when growing in strong current, it will produce very short leaves with very small leaf-plate. The plant can be tricked into this, by constantly removing biggest leaves. Growing...

The name says all, really. BUCEPHALANDRA....... yep, it is a Bucephalandra SP. ......... we do not know the exact species RED ........... it probaply is more red-ish, than anotherone, that is less red :) So any species of Bucephalandra can be presented by such name .......... and...

There is aparently 2 different Helanthium tenellum: The broader leaved, "evergreen" is Helanthium tenellum parvulum. Often sold as Helanthium tenellum 'Green' (This one has only recently gained popularity). The narrow leaved, "newest leaf can be red-ish" is Helanthium tenellum tenellum. Often...

The Rotala sp. 'bonzai' is in Tropica Medium category - so not as easy as Rotala rotundifolia, but defenitely not as difficult as Rotala macrandra, either. The in-vitro product must be thoroughly washed, to remove as much as possible of gel/fluid. This gel/fluid may harm the plant, once...

An important thing to remember: The in-vitro version of a plant is genetically still exactly the same...... meaning the plant does not get more/less easy/difficult to grow. An "easy" plant is still easy and a "difficult" plant is still difficult. The general behaviour, adaptability and growth...

Like Ian say - fishing line (or thread) will hold any moss in place. As the moss grow thicker it is usually nessesary to re-bind it, rolling another layer of thread/fishing line tight around it. Don't be afraid to tie tight and plenty (watch Amano's videos: you can barely see the tied moss...

You are welcome :-) . Please note, though, that I am joining this forum as mysrlf - a private aquarist - and not a representative of Tropica. This is why I use my christian name. Because I do gather a lot of knowledge, I was actually asked to join, by admin.s of UKAPS, so the connection to...

I am employed by Tropica, my friend......... it is (part of) my job, to know and grow aqarium plants and create images like this :-)

He he - well spotted. I only focused on actual plant, not surroundings....... but it sure is same set-up (and a very old one!!) In second pic. I've trimmed and re-planted at least two times.

To make it very clear: First pic. from OP look exactly like Rotala rotundifolia 'mis-named indica' (the unusually deep red one). Second pic from OP defenitely show Rotala indica 'bonzai'.........but was taken when the plant was still named Amannia sp. 'bonzai'. (I know for certain, because I...

2 things to accept here: 1/ looking at pic.s on internet does not guarantee, that you are actually looking at pic.s og the (botanically) correct plant. Basically everyone can post anything and name it anyname......... critical evaluation of source is needed. F. ex. Missouri Botanical Institute...

Basically the same plant. Amannia sp 'bonzai' was an immidiately popular plant. After a few years determined by botanist Christel Kasselmann (who we can thank for a lot of botanic work, on our aquarium plants) to actually be a Rotala indica. An unusually deep red version of Rotala...

Phyllanthus or Salvinia are possible candidates.

The "DwarfHairGrass" (Eleocharis 'mini') can actually grow without added CO2 - but will not grow the dense carpet it is supposed to. 'MonteCarlo' will grow acceptably without added CO2 - but slower and les dense. Marsilea hirsuta grow quite happily without added CO2 - but will likely grow...

You can - theoretically - separate each leaf with its bit of "runner" and connected roots. There is a potential growing-point on this. I would recommend taking a piece of "runner" with several leaves, though, curling it carefully up into a dense clump (leaves up, roots down) and plant this...

Rotala 'Vietnam' can take some time to adapt to new environment - existing leaves often falling victim to algae-attack. The trick is to cut the new grown tops, after a while, dismiss the lower parts and re-plant the tops. Sometimes doing this several times. Myriophyllum 'Guyana' is a much...

The "Wokii" pic. is showing Marsilea crenata. The "Hanuman" pic. is showing Marsilea hirsuta. - sorry, I was inaccurate.

Elatine hydropiper and Marsilea crenata will grow at about same "speed". They both take some time to complete a true carpet. Marsilea crenate being the much easier plant to grow, of the two. The moderate growth means needing trimming less often. Hemianthus 'cuba' and Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'...

Looks very much like it.

Be aware, that Crypt. Parva is really not as shade tolerant as many other Crypts. The Crypt. Parva has very little leaf-plate and stay close to bottom of your tank......both means the plant will receive less light.

Most Vesicularia-mosses will only do their best with added CO2 and relatively good light. Taxiphyllum-mosses are much more tolerant, doing fine without added CO2 and less bright light. You need to make sure, there is enough light in the upper corners of your aquarium - most of the "standard"...

Anubias are defenitely insect pollinated......... but there are plants using water for pollination, and most of us have one of them in our tanks: Vallisneria!! Have a close look at the banana-shaped female flower at the end of the long, curled, flexible stem, sometimes occuring. It floats...

If you are up fore a bit of challenge......... you could do a carpet of Elatine hydropiper!! It is in Troica advanced category, which means it will need good light and flow and added CO2. And it does not really like very high temperature. It will look much like the carpet of Cubahemianthus (a...

Your plant look a lot like some kind of Alternanthera. It is very common for Alternanthera to shed lover leaves quite fast, if growing in "low tech" (= no adeed CO2). It is difficult to give Alternanthera too much light ( they need to be in constant, good growth ), but they do need added CO2...

Tropica had a "line" of C. parva from a TC lab some time ago. These plants grow WAY bigger than C. parva should ever do. We chose to dismiss this "line", since it was defenitely not a typical C. parva and focused on a "line" that behave like C. parva......

You are right. It seem every producer chose their own name

This is the general problem....... Botanically every plant has its very own name. This plant - and ONLY this plant - can rightfully carry a given, botanical name. The name is given to the plant based on specifications, usually focused on flower (flowers are much less prone to change because of...

Your picture show Cryptocoryne nevellii from your list.......... but it is incorrect named. The correct name is Cryptocoryne willissii

Most likely Cyperus helferi. Could be Blyxa aubertii - but it is big, even for aubertii, and the relatively intense light would usually give this Blyxa a red-ish colouration.

It looks like your Echinodorus bleheri (= Amazon sword) has mechanical damages. Something destroyed parts of some leaves ( = drying, pressure or the like) when plant was handled or transported. I would expect newest leaves to look fine. If so, all is well..... just remove the damaged...

Your plant is Egeria densa and it has difficulties adapting to your water-quality. The "see through" leaves are dying/dead - but it look like the new growth has adapted to your water-quality. So you can cut the stems just under the (upper) part, looking good. Remove lowest leaves on your...

You have bought an emerse grown Lim. Sess. - and the new growth is the submersed version. So your plant look exactly as it should. The roots appearing from the stem is very normal, too. If you do not like them, cut them off. The plant will not be damaged by this. The faint orange colour...

I'm pretty sure the one Tom was promoting was very much like the 'Stardust'- which do have some green in the leaves. It does not make it a prolific grower, but it does make it possible to grow it on.

Defenitely not an Echinodorus. Your plant is a Cryptocoryne - most likely a Cryptocoryne wendtii of some kind. There are quite many variations of Cryptocoryne wendtii in trade. They are generally very easy plants to grow, adapting well to very different aquatic conditions. By sudden changes...

This is still a "phenomena" running in the Pogostemon helferi traded comercially. They all originates from tissue cultured plants and this tendency of variegated "sports" obviosly run in the line(s) of material used in the laboratories. They show up regularly in emerse produced pots and in the...

I assume the quadangular container (stored sideways - I would'nt either) is the Fissidens. The lid of this is not sealed anyway, so this moss would really benefit from a spray once a day or every other day, to not dry out too much. For the "caserole set-up", it would defenitely be necessary...

You have a moss contamination of your hairgrass. I really can't give you a defenite ID, but mosses growing this way are usually called "stringy moss" in the hobby. They are quite nice mosses, usually not growing very dense, but spreading (often rapidly!) in a more open form. If they get too...

You can grow Lysimachia this way - it is really a quite undemanding plant. Totally submerse (in "low tech" conditions) , it tends to grow a bit leggy. Letting it grow partially emerse, will undoubtly help. Some of the leaves submerse may slowly die off, but often they just carry on for very...

I'd bet my money on Hyd. verticillata, too......

I tested the "Junglestar nr. 2" aka "Kleiner bear" long ago, when looking for a small, red Echinodorus for Tropica. The "Reni" was chosen for overall better performance on many parametres than all competitors at the time, including "Kleiner bear". As for the "Yellow sun", I do not remember...

It is some kind of moss, obviously. A proper identification is really impossible, since a lot of the traded Bucephalandra are wild-collected or off-cuts from those. Such plants often carry strange things....... different mosses being the most common (and least problematic, compared to ex...

Defenitely no C. Willissii on the pic....... so that is excluded. Right plant is some form of C. Wendtii 'green' (there are several) for sure. Left plant look a bit skinny - but is C. beckettii 'petchi'. Middle plant is the C. beckettii (species). The 'lutea' is a variation of C...