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Since bought at Pets at Home, it is defenitely Hyg. '53B'. Looking at plant also say Hyg. '53B'. It is not that unusual for this Hygrophila to produce new plants from leaves de-attached from the stem. Hygrophila polysperma very often does this too.

1/ my testing show, that leaving agar on the plantlets when inplanting submerse, tends to promote several different problems. Most important are a much higher chance of algae "bloom", including green water and a Very high chance of plantlets "melting". Fertilisation of the plantlets is best...

You defenitely need some rosette-plant, if maintainance is an issue. Echinodorus are quite fit for your parametres (=no added CO2 and medium light). Have a look at Echinodorus horemanii, Echinodorus horemanii 'red' and Echinodorus major. None of these are difficult to grow and easy to maintain.

Yes - both these Cryptocorynes will benefit from being trimmed and divided, before being planted in your new tank.

I really do not see any point in using the Cryptocoryne 'Tropica' as an XL. Just go for a standard pot, like the Cryptocoryne 'petchii'. Cryptocorynes usually loose most of their leaves, when planted in a new aquarium (=melt), so you would be best off removing most of the leaves anyway...

The Hippuris vulgaris, I really doubt would grow in higher temperatures (=in an aquarium). I found this growing wild in very south of Greenland, a few years ago. The Elodea nutallii, I have grown - but it does not look like this (even in that poor condition). There should be more distinct...

Hmm - this is where it becomes interesting, then...... Smaller versions somehow seem to appeal to the aquatic hobby.

Did you grow plants from other source side by side to this, Darrel, for comparison to exclude the smaller growth is just environmental related?

I am very well aware of a Bolbitis 'mini'.This is Bolbitis heteroclita 'difformis'. A variety of a species, coming from Asia - so not a Bolbitis heudelotii. I have not been able to grow the Bolbitis heteroclita submersed for a longer time - but the 'difformis' variant seem to do. It is not as...

I'm pretty sure you are the proud owner of Bolbitis heudelotii. This african fern is relatively adaptable, but differ quite much, depending on which conditions it is growing in. There may well be some variation within species, too. Yours look very much on the small end of scale, but still...

I have several, the same size......... Just growing in their original rock-wool pots!! I put several pots in all my 250 l. "growing tanks" for my angelfish fry. Somehow it seem to make the water-quality of these tanks better (and I sentimentally feel, my "kids" deserve plants around them).

Javamos - if it is Taxiphyllum barbierei - will grow sideways and slightly upwards on your wood. In time the "branches" will grow longer and heavier and this will bend them downwords. Taxiphyllum barbierei will grow happily without added CO2 and in quite low light. Weeping mos is Vesicularia...

Your Alternanthera can be trimmed at any time, you think the hight is getting more than you want. Cut each stem as low as possible, but preferably leaving a set of healthy leaves on the part left. New growth will come from the base of these leaves. The cut-off stems can be cut to the length...

Cryptocoryne are not a "uniform" plant - different species will (ofcourse) have different preferances, therefore reacting different. We tend to think of C. wendtii and the numorus variations of this species, when discussing Cryptocoryne. Likely because they are very awailable and very easy to...

Ideal storage of the 1-2-Grow! is for most species at a temp. of 14 Celcius and not too strong light - indirect daylight will do fine, but no direct sun (this will boil the plantlets!). They will store nicely this way for several weeks. The java moss would most likely survive for...

Defenitely Cabomba - looks like C. Aquatica and not C. carolineana(last one is on the invasive list, illegal to trade and own). Sorry, Darrel, but leaves are not in a whirl. They are on a leaf-stem. What you see is a side-shoot and the highest ones are flower-stems, holding very young...

Probaply not the exact ADA species......... but you can get this look by mixing Rotala sp. 'green', Rotala rotundifolia, Rotala sp. H'ra and Ludwigia palustris. The Ludwigia will most likely get more red, than this scape. Identifying exact species of Rotala (and there are defenitely...

3 one might be Water cress (Nasturtium officinale) in juvenile form. Leaves would be bigger and a little different later.

Anubias 'nana' is just a variation of Anubias barteri (= Anubias barteri var. nana) and so is Anubias barteri var. 'petite' and several others. Your plant is probably such a variation - or maybe just the original Anubias barteri. They can sometimes grow quite big.

There are moss walls in several of the Tropica www tanks - all of them done with stainless steel mesh and fishing line. You are right, this can stand on its own buried slightly in the bottom-layer. It is very easy to gently lift out the entire set, for cleaning and/or trimming. A good way to...

You can almost certainly grow some Bucephalandra in these conditions. Commercially produced Bucephalandra are grown emerse. Be aware, that different types of Bucephalandra will react differently to environment - so if one type likes your set-up, another type may not like it at all. Also be...

Hi Mark - very nice tanks..... .. Please have a thorough look at your plants in the eco system tank (first one in your video). I am pretty sure I see cabomba carolineana in there (might be the one you call Limnophila sessiliflora in your text). The Cabomba carolineana is on the invasive species...

The short answer: YES and NO. the Tropica soil is an active substrate, meaning it will bind/release nutrients. How this will happen is largely dependent on the water applied, and develoment of your specific awuarium. In your newly set-up taquarium, the soil will release nutrients and bind...

Whatever way you choose to fertilise plants in an aquarium - it will become a "liquid" form, available to roots or leaves whatever the plant may prefere. Roottabs just release the fertlisers to surrounding water in you bottom layer, slowly over time. Concentration will be somewhat higher...

I can't tell you if Tropica Soil will exhibit "the same drop" ............but Tropica Soil will usually exhibit a drop in pH, yes.

Looks a lot like Rotala 'mini butterfly'. Your describtion of growth habits fit very well too. Rotala 'mini butterfly' has very high demands regarding water and light, and a strong tendency of "cramping" growing points. When growing successfull it is an extraordinary beautifull plant.

Yep, it is Bacopa carolineana. It flower often when grown in nurseries - not so often in private tanks, actually.

I honestly do not know for the "true" E. montevidensis. But for the Tropica Eleocharis sp. (the tall one), you can defenitely cut the single straw at a given length and it will live on. I often cut just at surface level, to maintain a straight upgoing look of each straw. If growing taller...

Adult Garra rufa (yes:doctor-fish) will effectively eat off all duckweed - but after that, they might go for other plants.

It is defenitely possible to grow Staurogyne repens "Low Tech", (although not as easy as I thought, seeing surprisingly many fellow aquarists having trouble). I can get an acceptable, carpet-ish growth in a starter set (= 54 l. very poor light, no added CO2). Plants will be more up-right...

Sounds like the one :)

- Rotala sp. 'bonzai' - Rotala sp. 'H'ra' - Gratiola viscidula - Pogostemon helferi - Monte Carlo - Helanthium tenellum - Cryptocoryne albida 'brown' .............just to mention a few..........:)

This is IMO how a "potted plant" is supposed to look, root-wise ................:D:D:D.

Potted plants have spent some time - mostly emerse - in a nursery, establishing a root-system, growing leaves and gathering energy. Usually grow in rock-wool, that should be removed before planting. Some of this energy is stored in the plant and will be used as plant adapts to life submerged...

Looks like "Monte Carlo" could be your new friend, here.........

He he - this is usually (and commonly!!) connected to bunched plants - that are basically just cuttings. To avoid "unnatural" substances (ex. glue) you can carefully tie the plants (single stems/plants or a few together) to a very small piece of inert rock, using sewing-thread (preferably...

I agree, ofcourse, in Manisha's thoughts about corresponding levels of light and fert.s (CO2 being a fert.). The balancing of those are the Alpha and Omega of a successfull aquarium. Still this does not mean, you can just allways get away with reducing light, to compensate for in-accessabel CO2...

Echinodorus are generally easy and tolerant plants.........but not all are equally easy, sorry. The Ech. aquartica is really not that difficult to grow - but it is not as easy and tolerant as many other types. The ones Manisha list are all much more toletant types........the Ech. 'Vesuvius' is...

Defenitely go for adding to plants bio-mass from the start. A very low bio-mass makes all things so much more "insecure", comparrd to a high bio-mass. Do choose some fast-growers, though, since it is easier to take away too much grow, than it is to accelerate too less growth. The high amount of...

Looking better then you seem to think, Matt.......... It would be much better to trim tops off the submersed Pog. stellata and re-plant those, since they are allready in submerse form and will not have to go through transition as would new "younger" plants grown emerse. Plant cuttings in the...

1/ Hygrophila corymbosa - likely the "53B" variety. 2/ Staurogyne - most likely repens. 3/ Anubias barteri var. nana - growingon rocks, for elevation. 4/ Hemianthus callitrichoides var. Cuba. 5/ Limnophila - likely aromatica......or could be Heteranthera zostetifolia. 6/ Ludwigia repens rubin or...

27 celcius should be acceptable for most plants - also long-time !! I hope it will be acceptable long-time for the Discus, too............ Be aware, though, that higher temp. speed up metabolism of the plants, increasing their needs.

Since you mention Discus........could your temperature be an issue ???? - most of our common aquatic plants really do not tolerate the usual high temperature in a Discus-tank - especially not long-time. Most Cryptocorynes and the amazon sword will tolerate, though........

Yep, sometimes you can be lucky, that your tank parametres are just good enough to grow plants that are a bit more demanding. - enjoy (and feel a bit priviledged)..........:thumbup:

Mini hairgrass is in yellow (medium) category, if I remember correct. This means the plant is not likely to thrive very well in a Low-Tech.

The plants on 1-2-Grow! range are labelled in same category, as is potted plants - since they are genetically the exact same plants, having exact same requirements. An easy-category 1-2-Grow! plant is still an easy-category plant and can still grow in a Low-Tech set-up. An advanced-category...

From pic. it look like it is a few of the oldest (emerse??) leaves dying. If tbis is true, I would not worry. Every leaf has a life-time, and then die. As long as it is the old leaves and the young/new leavs are doing well, the plant will grow stronger and stronger. If it really is emerse...

Limnophila sessiliflora is a very easy, but also very fast growing plant. It will grow happily in your tank-conditions - but will need constant trimming. Another easy and reliable plant is Rotala rotundifolia. This one will thrive in your tank, too, grow fast but not as fast as Lim. sess. They...

I doubt very much, you will succeed with Rotala 'bonzai' in these conditions. You could check Bacopa 'compact', to see if apearance suit your needs - this plant can grow successfull in your conditions. Wil need trimming, though, to create the low, dense apearance, that is usually desired.

Well - they grow relative fast, needing the occational trimming. But they are low in demands, for sure, growing fine in relative low light and without added CO2.

1/ Egeria densa. 2/ Hygrophila polysperma.

Try laying the plant "backwards" along the tweezers, so the root-part is basically extending the points of the tweezers (about 1/2 a cm), when planting. This should help you most with very small plants - but bigger plants can be handled this way, too. Keep the squeesing at all time, when...

Most submersed plants will tolerate quite much water-movement - weather it pleases the eye, is subjective......:rolleyes: As I said: In my opinion and experience it's not the "strength" of flow in your tank, that is most important, but weather the flow get water to move around all over your...

The "flow", is the movement of water in your tank. This movement will re-new environment surrounding the plants, by removing waste-products and adding products the plants need - simplified, ofcourse. In practice it means, you need to ensure a good movement of water everywhere in your tank. A...

Your Glossostigma look fine - but a few days is not telling anything about long time growth, unfortunately. Glossostigma need a very good balance of flow, light and ferts (incl. CO2), to perform the perfect carpet.......... The "fast growing" on first day, is due to plants stretching when...

I see we're praising the smaller tanks !!! - So now is NOT the time to tell one of mine is about 800 l. - two are 250 l. ...................:D:D:D

- sorry Derek !!! One shouldn't point out such a thing, without also giving reason and solution :oops: . Darrel is right; I see this often (E. bleheri often do this emerse) and does not really think about that, since it is easily solved, when submersed. - Nice plants, enjoy them...........

- ofcourse you should have two tanks in the space............ Double the fun !!!

"Multible Tank Syndrome" strikes again........... Quoye: "should I have two tanks in the space....." ............was there ever a question ???:jimlad:;) ( Yes - I have 15 tanks running, in private......:).)

The Crypt. crispatula'es (Crypt. crisp. var. balanceae is such one) tends to be slow starters. Look like they need to build a decent root-system, before growing successfully. "Ages" should not pass, though !! If you still have them/want them again, I suggest adding root tabs. This will usually...

- and in need of fertilisers.............:rolleyes:

Leave the new growth as is - they need to gather strength (=energy). Later, when these branches have grown bigger and stored energy, you can cut and re-plant. The off-cuts then have much better chance of producing new roots and start a life on their own. - good luck with your Rotala's......

There's a "short-cut", sometimes usable - especially if you are in a real hurry: suction-cups !!! ;););) - you screw on suction-cups where the wood meets a glass-surface. This includes, very preferable, suction-cups where the wood sit on the glass-bottom of the tank (so you need to plan...

I would really suggest, you remove the Dracena sanderiana - those are the "palm-like", white and green ones. They are not aquatic plants and will slowly but surely die.......polluting your tank in the process. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news; but this is a fact !! They are terrific...

In time, you learn to "over-do" hardscape. It look dramatic when starting up a tank, but like said above, it's basically a matter of being able to picture the finished look. Sounds easier than it actually is, since you must have good knowledge of growth-habit of the plants you use, and knowledge...

Hyg pinnatifida is a little different to most Hygro's, in that it will (in proper light and good health) grow horizontal new shoots. By cutting up-right stems (that are often taking dominance on the plant) a somewhat "flat and broad" appearance can be achieved. Leaves will usually be a little...

Try looking at tanks displayed at contests.......and you will find there's no "no-no's" at all. It's a matter of taste (or lack of same :rolleyes: )

- you are right. Algae-crew goes in Tropica tanks as soon as possible after set-up ( usually ramshorns, otocinclus, cherries and amanoes in various numbers).

If you want to stay "low light", you still have multible choises of plant; Echinodorus bleheri, Echinodorus quadricostatus, Echinodorus tenellus 'green', Limnophila sessiliflora, all the Microsorum, all the Anubias, most of the Cryptocorynes, most of the Vallisneria, Taxiphyllim...

Just go ahead........ A plant on good or Quote; "wild" growth will have plenty of stored energy, to bounce back after a trim. For most plants, trimming of plants in good growth, will result in more dense and lush appearance. This is usually what is desired. - and to be honest; it's a matter of...

If only leaves are damaged, and the rhizome (=stem) is intact - new leaves will come. Anubias is a very slow grower, though, so serious patience will be needed. The damaged leaves will not recover, so better remove them.

Yep - you're right; this will make the plant "stand up" and easier to trim.

Hi Mick Nice looking! When trimming Riccia - you will be doing yourself a favour, by lifting the mesh they're on OUT of the tank, and trim. Otherwise you will have Riccia offcuts EVERYWHERE in your tank.....and they will all grow, even the tiniest little bits. Ricia is a fantastic little thing...

Very normal for some of the Crypt. wendtii 'green' types, to develop coloured parts on leaves. And like allready said - Crypts. tend to look rather different in different environments (especially the wendtii-types). - your plants look fine, to me !!

- then try leaving them on, to see if by chance it's one of those, that start brown-ish and then "green up".

I sometimes receive plant-material like this .......... What suits the plant best differ fore different plants - if you have enough material, I'd suggest doing both emerged and submerged. W hat you DON'T do......is expose these plants to full Congolese sunlight. This will kill anything that...

It's quite common, that the first leaves to appear on a newplanted Aponogeton-bulb are damaged. This is because they're "pre-made" and damaged during storage. Wait a little, and see if the next leaves are better. Leaves, that are damaged should be removed - they will not recover. Some types of...

Honestly guys - if you don't have the patience/knowledge/curiosity/parametres, or whatever it takes to grow a certain plant.............why don't you just choose another plant, that fits your needs?? There are so many to choose from. - I know this is becoming my mantra, but ; Choose the right...

I can only say: welcome to the wonderfull world of learning about the diffeent needs of your different plants. There are a lot of needs, plants have in common - but there are also individual needs. This is how plants compete to be superior in a given place of growing. Different environments...

If the Echinodorus can thrive........both Hyg. corymbosa and Lud. repens should be capable too !! They pretty much have the same demands.

Anubias generally don't like strong light - which make them perfect for inhabitating "lower levels", under other plants, that do. This can be used very advantageus in such an epiphytic scape. - been there, done that........so I know for certain, that it works :thumbup:

It's tried, allright - and it works :thumbup:

More likely than rotting - the left part of stem will produce new growth, even from beneath substrate/gravel. Most Hygrophila are extreeeeemely good at re-growing.........

- nope. Potamogetons do a kind of runners, pretty much like Valisneria does. But producing a stem instead of a rosette.

As already said........it's the health of rhizome, that's important. Not so much individual leaves. Remove any dead leaves ASAP. Mic. 'trident' is exactly as easy as most other Mic.s in my experience.

There is a reason, the Eleocharis sp. 'mini' is in the yellow/medium category of Tropica range plants.:rolleyes: If this plant was easily capable of growing without added CO2 and in very low light.........it would be in the green/easy category. - and yes, the Eleocharis sp. 'mini' is often a...

- someone know their history, ehh :thumbup:

Possibly to live-stock, yes......

You probaply could..........but I wouldn't advise it. Among other things, it'll be expensive over time. and you will have an unstable amount of CO2 dissolved in the water. - as a short time solutin it works.....

Yes - this is how the Tropica tanks at InterZoo exibition are run. They sit there for app. a week, and the expo is at the end of that - so they HAVE to look fantastic after a week of "bottled CO2". Public feedback indicate, they do........;)

You can just do, what we do, when having tanks on exibitions for a few days. Instead of rigging up a CO2 system, trying to adjust it..........we simply dose bottled water, with "Fizz" (added CO2) - numerous varieties for sale, but choose something without flavor, ofcourse !!! Dose one cup (app...

It's not unusual for Eleocharis to be a slow starter.............so 4 weeks is not that worrying. It looks like the plants are surviving and even look like a bit of new growth (??). If this is correct.......it's just a matter of patience !

I will only say this: In Denmark quality is outranged by (cheap)price, aqua-plant-wise !!! It's really difficult, to get quality plants......and the availability of species is limited. Sad, but true !! Hopefully this will change......:rolleyes:

- that's not even a bit funny, Pedro :meh:

As it happens I am probably going to go down the high tech route and then I will be able to truly answer my own question... Go ahead.........you will love the "new and improved" techniques of the hobby. I am a "40+ in the hobby" too,so I know these "good old days" very well.....and consider my...

I really don't see any manufacturer/supplier "forcing expectations" on you.......but several of them offer you help, if you want it. Basically: - if you just want to go to bakery on sundays.......a bicycle will do the job nicely. - if you need to go 50 miles back amd forth to your job........a...

Did anybody notice the Crypt. c. 'rosanervig' in the right corner ??? :rolleyes:

I've worked in a huge Zoo-exibition, way back.( A lot like Eden, but before that was even thought of *lol*). Lots of different size ponds everywhere, and lots of Spatiphyllum growing in and around them. Flowered insanely, like yours. Ponds inhabited by diff. fish - a.o. Poecilia - but never ever...

I really like the dense areas, actually - but you can trim both the sword-plants and the Cryptocorynes, if you want them less dense (and you will need to trim them later anyway). Just carefully break off oldest leaves - they're very convenient allso the outer ones in the rosette *ss*. Both types...

Simon - maybe have an inspiration-look at german Adrie Baumann's scape. I think it's called "River bank" or something alike. Sorry, I'm not able to put a link up !! Mick.