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Actually you would have to be careful not to overdose CO2 before lights on. Before lights on is the most stressful period if you have livestock since the plants have been using O2 all night and producing CO2.
I think we would need to know what algae it is for a start before jumping to...
Maybe I'll just rig up the CO2 after the chiller then. Won't make much difference aesthetically I guess since the chiller will already be outside the cabinet. Removes any doubt.
Hey - unlikely scenario for the UK I know but with temps in tropical Australia starting to ramp up and tank temps of 28 C+ already I have purchased a chiller.
Just wondering if anybody has run inline CO2 before a chiller before and whether it could damage the chiller. I have seen some threads...
Same for CO2art here in Australia but mines not too bad. Needle valve is a bit faulty atm but I have it set and forget and just adjusting timings instead now.
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CO2art (forum sponsor) do all the kit you need for this including a sodastream adapter and will be able help you with it if you ask via their website.
Their regs are quite large though so may not look the best. However, nano regs (including many of those GLA) are unlikely to be as good quality...
It should only make a big difference if you have a shallow tank or any factor impacting the water surface which changes a lot with evaporation - like tank rims or water outlet. Otherwise must be something else.
Not for me. If you have your outlet near the surface of the tank and you don't top up evaporation then maybe surface agitation has changed. Saw in a Green Aqua video they had a tank with rim and outlet near the top effecting the CO2 levels a lot. When water touched the rim there would have been...
602 is probably your best bet because 603 adds CO2 based on the pH level and it often under doses. Also it assumes that pH is only affected by CO2 concentration so if it's affected by other stuff (which it will be), like water changes, bogwood or rock and fish waste then it's totally inaccurate.
Hey guys,
Yesterday I acquired two CO2 sets from work as my boss wasn't using them anymore, anyway they aren't complete kits, but basically they have everything I want apart from the refillable bottles which I need to buy. The sets I have are the m603 apart from the bottle and the Regulator and...
Was reading a similar topic earlier in which Ceg stated that you shouldn't run them dry because it can get air / dirt / moisture into the CO2 bottle which could cause a weakness in the bottle, so just something to bare in mind.
Don't know if any uses these anymore but found out at work today (Maidenhead Aquatics Brighton) that we replace swap empty JBL cylinders for full ones for the cost of us getting them refilled by JBL. Don't know about other shops in our chain but I would imagine other shops provide the same...
Probably gonna try out the ladder.
How much of teaspoon of yeast should I use?
How often should I change the mix (less yeast, longer lasting I heard)?
Do I really need a drop checker?
Need more opinions.
I'm looking to get a Nutrafin Kit for my nano of 30L, but have a couple of questions.
How much of teaspoon of yeast should I use?
How often should I change the mix (less yeast, longer lasting I heard)?
Do I really need a drop checker?
If anyone could source me some cheap CO2 (non fire extinguisher) then I'd be grateful. 600g welding bottles is the cheapest non FE isn't it?
Also how long would one of these run on my 120l?
By the way solenoid is preferred since it will pay itself off.
http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.p...
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