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Have a look on this link Thrills - James' Planted Tank - All In One Solution You're only dosing some of the chemicals required for a balanced fertiliser, which won't be helping your situation.

I'd suggest the following. - Remove what you can with some tweezers - Lower your photoperiod for the time being - Start dosing a proper complete mix - James' Planted Tank #3 is a popular recipe - Start doing 50% daily water changes for the next couple of weeks to remove as much unwanted...

Floating plants or upside-down reflectors are a couple of ways to reduce the intensity.

Is your pump breaking the surface tension of the surface?

Yea, I was trying to go even lower tech than I am currently, but it appears I've hit a threshold with my current lighting demands!

Cheers Tom - from my reading am I right in thinking that low PO4 typically causes this? I reduced the amount I was dosing a few weeks ago, so I can see a logical link there...

I've been giving one of my tanks a much needed overhaul today, and noticed there appears to be quite a lot of algae on the inside of the glass. Details as follows... - Dark green colour - Pattern/distribution is similar to what you'd see with mould on cheese - small dense dots scattered around...

Any thoughts? I'm at a loss here, since I thought light was the primary reason for hair algae, and I've got so little lighting at the moment I can't help but wonder if there's something else!

It's not true low tech Paulo I realise, I'll call it "low-ish" tech from now on :P. Joking aside, the balance I've struck on all my other tanks to avoid high maintenance but preserve plant health has been to dose AIO weekly, keep the lighting low, and avoid CO2. @Tim - Not of note no. Again...

Ok, well a few weeks ago I stripped down my Fluval Ebi because I'd lost a battle with hair algae and brown algae on the glass. Despite dropping my lighting I was still not winning (and dosing glut for a short time), so I decided that starting afresh was the best option. When I put the tank...

From personal experience and also various posts on the net of people having the same mystery issue, I think it's just something that happens with new suction cups - maybe it's a residue from something? I know a few people have that view and it certainly seems logical.

I had this on my latest bit of new equipment. Seems entirely harmless, and some fish even like to graze on it. At the suggestion of someone on here, I found a good rinse and rub with thumbs under very hot water got rid of most of it. Pretty unsightly though I'll agree.

This is the approach I'm taking to deal with an algae outbreak in my little nano (due to minor neglect combined with too much light). Any single intervention will just get you back to a starting point, you need a plan for controlling things longer term. Either that, or patience :D.

Cheers Clive. I've put two layers of frosted film over the top a week or so ago, so I'll try putting even more on!

My Fluval Ebi (30 litres) is a good couple of months old now, but still producing a lot of diatoms on the glass. With it being so small, I don't really want to put 4 Oto's in there, and after my previous experience with Red Ramshorn snails taking over my tank, I don't want to put them in there...

Thanks Ian. Having read up, I'm going to have to remove the plants from the tank since I have Vallis in there, and apparently LC annihilates it pretty effectively, so I'd better not spot dose in the tank!

Brilliant, thanks Iain. I know with CO2 you can get plant melt if you're supplying it for a while and then remove it, do I need to avoid the same thing with LC? Just thinking if I spot dose a few days in a row whether I'm setting myself up for other problems...

I'm quite enjoying the fact that I'm beginning to understand my tanks as ecosystems, with my Rio showing good health, Ebi currently under a layer of frosted film since yesterday to combat the hair algae, and therefore just one challenge remains... My Trigon has a fair measure of BBA on some...

Thanks Ady :)

I've just put frosted film over the glass this morning, so I'll see what effect that has over the next week or so. I'd really rather avoid the need to go high tech, so I'm more likely to get a weaker bulb if needs be I think (or maybe mask the reflective coating on the inside of the lamp.

Looks like I'm going to be buying some glut! If I was to sometimes go away for, say, 3 days, how big a problem would that be if I was dosing liquid carbon every day?

Not going for CO2 just yet :p. I'll drop it to 3 hours, but it seems like a very low photoperiod for a low tech tank!

Doing my weekly inspection of my tanks, I was amazed to see a fair amount of hair algae on some of the ele. acic. in my Fluval Ebi tank. The reason I say amazed is that I'm just using the Ebi light (4 hour photoperiod), and have a JBL e700 (at half throttle) on it, which is giving significant...

By how much Ian? Are we talking 25% increase, or doubling, etc?

Thinking about it, would either reducing the photoperiod further, or removing the reflectors assist? I know it would slow growth, but would the reduced demand also be another way to restore the balance, rather than adding more artificial inputs to the tank?

Somehow I thought you'd have a suggestion Clive! Any dangers in upping the PO4? I'm using Potassium Phosphate as my source.

There was a similar recent thread on this, but unfortunately it didn't solve my issue, so here we go. My Trigon 190 is getting quite mature now, it's nice and stable, with maybe a 30% water change every month or two, and for the most part the plants are healthy and the tank is algae free...

All of the above will help deal with the root cause. In terms of dealing with the symptom, have you considered amano shrimp?

Sorry Clive, I realise you get a lot of questions without really having a fair chance to answer! It's a non-CO2 tank with two 18W T8s with reflectors, and 2 Eheim 2217s giving 2000lph of flow. I'll keep an eye and try playing around with the spraybar position to give stronger flow in that area.

Knocked an hour off my photoperiod :). Will that suffice or is it purely the PAR I'll need to worry about?

Thanks Clive, logical and reasoned replies as always! I'll probably just trim the tops back and deal with it that way.

Where my plants have grown within about 4 inches of the surface, I'm now seeing hair algae develop on their leaves. The rest of the tank is fine. Am I right in assuming that this is due to the PAR at that depth of water becoming such that algae is thriving as the leaves at that level cannot...

Thanks CeeJay. It's a 190l tank, so even with 2x 18W T8 + reflectors, I seem well under any wpg recommendations. Given the depth of the tank (2 feet), would I be best off keeping one tube running WITH reflector, so as to maintain the intensity to reach the bottom of the tank, and remove the...

Cheers ceg, I was hoping you'd post in here. My plan of attack is: - Reduce lighting duration to 6 hours - Introduce Otos (or will they not eat hair algae? I could go for Amano's if needs be). Would Cherry Red be a good option? I have some in another tank... - Hand removal I'm trying to avoid...

Ok, struggling to get this under control so I've been reading up on hair algae. Tank is a Trigon 190, T8 lighting with reflectors, not dosing any carbon (gas or liquid). Lights are on for 8 hours a day. My flow isn't great, and something I'm sorting out in the next week or two. I'm also...