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I think it was Clive who explained why it wouldn't affect bacteria in the filter. I'll ask him if he still has the link to that topic. Cheers Gilles

Nope, no effect on bacteria :)

Thanks mate!

Hi guys I wrote an article about the FE setup on my blog with a link to this thread. One of my readers claims it's dangerous because of the "internal pipe" that pushes out CO2 in its liquid form, damaging your regulator. Does anyone have any experience with this? Cheers, Gilles

Those that you will find in the UK are probably the same as those on Ebay. I'd just get the ebay ones and replace the needle valve (which are crap, believe me). Nothing wrong with the splitters though, they work very well!

Both setups have crappy needle wheels which make it very difficult (and dangerous) to keep a constant CO2 rate, especially on a 19 litre. I'm not sure where you can get different models than these though, since I'm not from the UK.

Hi guys Through my blog I got a link to this German webshop and noticed they offer a different type atomizer. It looks like they added a needle wheel to further dissolve the bubbles, so no more mist! AKVATEL CO2 Filter Diffusor Profi für Außenfilter | CO2-Technik | AKVATEL - Professional...

Thanks for the info. Actually, I only hear a few burbs in 8 hours. I don't mind the filter burping out the CO2, it fills the tank with tiny CO2 bubbles which the plants like.

This has me worried. Can impellers get damaged with a few burps a day (let's say 1 or 2 small burps/hour)?

Re: pH Controllers...how to maintain a CO2 level AND pH leve I totally agree with george. You're beter of spending your money on a good co2 setup

I was able to connect a 12/16 atomizer to the inlet tubing, I'm looking forward to seeing the results. The spraybar is about 9mm, does someone know where I can get a clear 9mm spray bar?

Yeah, it is much better than my nano internal filter and it has a lot more filter media in it.

It's not bad but I was expecting more from it. I think bad design slows down the flow. Only paid 25€ for it though ...

It's this one:

I'll probably do that in combination with the Up atomizer.

Hi Clive the injection rate is already quite high. Last week I almost lost a fish after increasing it just a little bit. Can I assume the problem is not the injection rate problem but rather the circulation? The spraybar does mix the CO2 pretty well but I think the java fern sort of blocks the...

Hi guys I have some thread algae/BBA in my tank due to low CO2/bad circulation. This is how the nano looks like (without the hardscape): http://i43.tinypic.com/2uemh4k.jpg Specs: 30x15x25cm 150l/h external mini cannister filter Full EI dosing 4,5w LED, 7 hours/day CO2 injection through...

I use Locktite sealant. Very easy to use, just a bead on the threads and then you can screw it on. I've also never had to redo a connection for leaks, so it seals very well.

You can replace the US type nut on the regulator with this one: https://weldspeed.com/store/view_produc ... g=DACO2NUT Someone on BarrReport did this.

Installed my atomizer on the inlet side, I'm looking forward to seeing the results tomorrow. Should I decrease the BPS somewhat?

Thanks for the info, George. Should it be installed in a specific way?

I don't like the bubbles, that's why I want to to place the atomizer at the inlet side instead of the outlet.

This has convinced me to try this method. Has anyone tried it with an Up Aqua inline atomizer? Am I right that completely dissolved CO2 is better for difficult to reach plants (e.g. stems at the back)?

Yeah, makes sense. Another question: BBA is caused by unstable CO2. But what if the CO2 levels are unstable (due to tweaking) but still optimal (e.g. staying above 30ppm). Is it still possible to have BBA then?

Hey Ceg so if I understand correctly, you double check your DC measurements by testing the pH and comparing that value to those in the pH/KH table? So if your aquarium water has 6,6 pH and 4dKH (from your DC) that would mean 31ppm of CO2, right? In that case, the pH/KH table is reliable because...

Good choice, you can't go wrong with Swagelok :thumbup:

Do the impellers make a lot of noise? My aquarium is near my bed, so I want it to be as quiet as possible. @Dolly Sprint: that's indeed an easy solution but frankly I don't like the idea of having CO2 build up in my filter ...

Allright, I just saw one of the fish gasping for air 3 hours after lights on. I think I'm having problems determining whether or not my DC is dark green or light green at lights on. It's more like something in between. I decreased CO2 just slightly so I'm injecting at the same rate as yesterday...

1600 liter, that's big :O The Aquamas is quite big though (I have a very small cabinet and limited room behind it) so I think this reactor will be for the future, when I get a bigger, opti-white tank :D

I wonder if this is a good reactor? http://www.aquamas.de/products/CO2-Zube ... plett.html 16/22 hosing possible and a bypass. What's the function of the bypass? To increase current in the tank by not having all the water pass through the reactor?

I know leave it on, they'll have to get used to it ...

That's interesting, I always thought it was the other way. Is a reactor as efficient as an inline atomizer or will I have to increase the bps? I always thought the atomizers were more efficient.

Ah yes, the AM1000 has a 12/16 connection, not 16/22. If I get a reactor with 16/22 connection, there's no flow reduction besides the bio-balls? And will the bubbles dissolve completely if there are no bio-balls inside?

Hi guys I bought a new Eheim filter a few months ago (about 13x turnover) and connected the inline atomizer. I'm finally getting there with the CO2. Unfortunately, I do not like the mist created by the atomizer, nor do my fish :mrgreen: How much does a reactor (e.g. AM1000) slow down the...

What kind of algae?

How much lighting do you have? And the dimensions of your tank?

How much lighting do you have?

My DC was yellow and my fish were hiding again. So I did a little test: I shut off the CO2 so that there were no bubbles. After about 15 minutes, the fish were happily swimming again. I can assume that it is not too much CO2 that causes this behaviour but rather the bubbles? After those 15...

Update: bought an inox grill today and placed it on the aquarium. Result: fish are happily swimming, not hiding and act normally even with the same amount of mist as yesterday. They are still breathing "fast" though, but maybe that's normal?

I've never thought about gas exchange really, the tank is still covered at night. I think that in my case it's a combination of aeration and adaptation. I've been using the atomizer for two weeks now which might explain the hiding but not the fast breathing. I'm going to try a grid as a cover...

What are you using now? I think my problem is gas exchange. My plastic cover functions as a seal and prohibits oxygen from entering. I might need to change something about that first.

On closer look, my fish are breathing a bit rapidly. I decreased CO2 somewhat.

Hello has anyone noticed fish hiding when there's a lot of CO2 mist? Ever since I'm injecting CO2 through my atomizer, I've noticed that my fish are always staying very calm in a corner of the tank. The DC is light green, a nice surface ripple and plenty of circulation so not too much CO2. Gilles

It is yellow now but no signs of fish stress so far (although they look calm, but not abnormally). Can I adjust my timer so that CO2 goes off when after half an hour when my DC gets yellow?

Alright, my DC is light green when the lights go on. Is this sufficient or does it really have to be lime green? Plants start producing oxygen bubbles one hour after lights on. A lot of mist in the tank though ...

Depends on the threading and the pressure (e.g. industrial solenoids). But if you buy one in your local aquarium shop then it should work ...

I'm having almost the same problem: lime green in the evening but dark green when the lights go on. CO2 goes on and shuts off 2 hours before the lighting. What's the best solution, simply increase the bps? The light are on for 2 hours atm and I can already see some air bubbles under the leaves...

That's the problem, I already have fish in my tank :D

Get the dual stage, much safer then a single stage when injecting a lot of CO2 (no end of tank dump)

Hi guys I'm finally getting my CO2 system up and running after a lot of hardware problems. Anyway, I'm testing and slowly injecting more CO2. At the moment my aquarium doesn't have a lot of plants and I'm planning on buying a lot of new plants (HC, hair grass, some stem plants, ...). Should I...

Horrible needle valve though ...

Nutrafin plant grow is a micro-nutritients mixture, right? Keep dosing it. In order to grow well, your plants need: Macro-nutritients: CO2, KNO3, KH2PO4 Micro-nutritients: Nutrafin Plant Grow, Profito, own mixture, ... And of course light to provide the "growth energy", but keep in mind that...

Normal, indeed. Unless it is very loud.

I actually had the same with one of my diffusers. As soon as it would push the co2 through the ceramic disk it would make a hissing sound. I did not have a leak. I guess it's just the design of the diffuser. I have the same sound with my inline atomizer but is almost unhearable.

Well, if you use one on a spraybar, the bubbles get distributed throughout the entire tank with the water. I've always had the impression that a pump aimed at an in-tank diffuser was very effective in a specific corner but not in every corner (unlike the spraybar), if you know what I mean. But...

They are more efficient when you use them in combination with a spraybar. If you use a normal filter outlet I guess it has the same effect

Works like a charm. I do recommend using metal clamps instead of the plastic nuts that tend to crack rather easily (from what I've read)

Probably the spray bar producing less surface agitation :)

Yes, they are worthless indeed. You can easily replace them, you just need to use some force to unscrew them (they have pipe dope on them). You can also put solenoid valves after the splitter, that way you can inject at different times for each tank :)

NPT is a connection type (threading) used in the US mainly, G1/8 is European and Asian (I think). Be sure to get the right connection to avoid leaks.

Probably a bad translation. The connection is g1/8 by the way, not npt

I have the same, works well. The needle valves are worthless though. I'll soon connect this baby to two mini solenoids and fabco air valves. Looking forward to it :)

I used Swagelok leak detector (works MUCH better than soap!) and found three leaks that I did not see earlier: one at the main connection, one at the solenoid and one at a tube fitting. The last two are easily fixed but the main connection might be a problem. I don't know how to fix this, the...

Flow is ok, I can see the tiny co2 bubbles throughout the entire tank. Only the left front corner has less co2 due to the filter inlet being placed in the left back corner. I've increased the co2 of my nano tank, the bigger tank will have to wait (I'm away this weekend and the nano tank doesn't...

Thanks for the fast replies! The co2 is injected two hours prior to the light and is shut off 2 hours before the lighting goes out. I guess I need to increase the co2 then? Interesting read on the teflon tape, will look iknto that!

Hi guys I'm injecting co2 in both of my tanks. When the lights go on, the drop checker is still dark/medium green. Should I increase the bps or should I start (and stop?) injecting earlier? Or is a dark/medium green drop checker ok? By the way, I have a small leak somewhere in my system since...