Just a list of a few thoughts of my experiences.
Contrary to popular belief adding lots of iron has no affect on making plants go red. As long as plants have enough then adding extra makes no difference.
Limiting NO3 can give a few plants a pinkish hue to them but the downside is you end up with...
I never said plants don't use green light. This is what I said
Yes plants can use green light but mostly they use the red and blue parts of the spectrum, except it seems that under very strong white light, green light may be used more efficiently. Even cheapo daylight tubes normally have red and...
I brought into the 'more light is better' idea a while ago which is why I went out and purchased a Arcadia luminaire with 4 T5's. But ever since I've never been as happy as I was before with the T8's. Having spent the money I just didn't want accept that it was a waste and I should've stuck with...
TBH I'm not sure what's going on. With the T5's I ran just on two tubes for a while and it made no difference to when I used all four tubes. I'm still a firm believer that plants mainly use red and blue light for photosynthesis which is why you get poor results when using cheapo 6500 tubes as...
Re: green rotala rotundifolia
It's been a while since this thread started but I just managed to get my rotala rotundifolia to go red more by chance than anything.
Ever since I upgraded my lighting to an Arcadia luminaire with four 54W T5's I've never been 100% happy with it. I could never get...
I brought some of that to try out. Really nice plant and you get a very good quantity for your money. I think you'll be happy with it but you might find it a tad tall if you are looking for a carpet type plant.
I think a lot of people and retailers are now finding that Tropica are no longer the...
How about a fissiden's carpet? I've seen this done a couple of times before and it can look quite fantastic. Only problem is that it will be quite slow and also a dirt collector. Shrimp will adore it...
Depends what you mean by nasties. A rinse under fresh water is always a good idea before introducing as some retailers dip their plants in a strong copper solution, but not sure if this is very common now. Snails aren't really classified IMHO as a nastie but you'll have to do a 1:20 bleach dip...
Hard to tell from the photo but it looks like cladophora. Not unusual to get it growing on wood like that. Is it rough or gritty if you rub it between your fingers? Take a look at http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm for ID.
I brought some Fissidens splachnobryoides from aquatic magic some time ago and it grew great. BUT I had it growing on some wood that was above the water line. What I put submerged died pretty quickly.
I've brought a fair few plants from them and never had any problems. You do have to watch it...
Just seen this. I brought some rotala rotundifolia from Tropica a little while ago and have also noticed it never goes red, even when it reaches the surface. This is with 4wpg of T5 as well. Funny thing is is that I also had some rotala sp. green so now have two lots of green rotala.
Doesn't look like UG to me. Never seen UG grow that straight or that fine. I'd go go dwarf hairgrass.
The other plant could be Staurogyne or possibly Hygrophila sp. Porto Velho (dwarf hygro). Hard to see without a close up.
Don't fishless cycle and add plants at the same time. Fishless cycles need to be done in the dark to prevent algae outbreaks. Also elevated levels of ammonia will burn plants.
So if you wish to do your fishless cycle then best to do it in the dark and with no plants. Then when finished add...
Man, you guys are patient. I really couldn't be bothered to plant stem by stem. I just get clumps of about 2p in size and just push into the substrate. Can normally do the whole width of my 4 footer in less than 10 minutes. After a month it's all filled in and soon after needs redoing again.
Often to ID a moss correctly you need to look at it under a microscope. Mosses grow differently in different conditions and just by looking at a photo it is generally very hard to tell. I've seen Java moss look very similar to xmas before.
Tonina fluviatilis is a very fussy plant but give it what it wants and it grows like a weed. IME it likes a very low KH of 3 or lower (never use baking soda to raise the KH) with plenty of CO2 and ferts. It likes high light as well. As far as substrates go I use just Akadama and it grows fine...
I find blyxa hates a change in water parameters and sometimes totally melts, but it has always come back with me. In my tank it also goes a reddish colour as well, but looks like it may have lost this colour during postage.
I find the easiest way is to rip the whole lot out and replant small tufts of it. Soon spreads out and fills in the gaps. I used to trim but didn't find the results as good, and also takes ages to net out all the small bits that float around.
Others will probably have their own ways.
Let's have a closeup of the leaves please
EDIT: It could be Micranthemum umbrosum. In the photo it looks like at each node there is only one leaf. But then again on some nodes it looks like 2 leaves.
Garden Direct sell the Chempak Chelated Trace Mix - http://www.gardendirect.co.uk/product.asp?numRecordPosition=5&P_ID=501&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=29
I used it for a while a couple of years ago with no probs.
I had the java moss growing in two different tanks. In my high light, CO2, EI tank it never really did that well and grew pretty slowly. Eventually ripped it out. In my shrimp breeding tank which gets no ferts, no CO2 and has lowish light it grew like there was no tomorrow.
btw the java moss...
If I recall correctly mosses don't like being too hot, ie 30+ degrees, but prefer the lower twenties.
Mmmm, just done a quick search and other people seem to think that java moss does alright at 30 degrees. Not so sure myself. Still think it may be a bit too hot for it.
I brought some willow moss from them a while back which arrived in very good condition. The portions are fairly small but once they are spread out and tied down they soon fill up the gaps. Java moos IMO is a manky unattractive moss compared to my willow moss. I grow my mosses in my shrimp...
The only thing I can suggest is that you try it and see. I would guess that it should be ok. I often tun off my filter when doing HC maitanence without any probs. The CO2 builds up a bit at the top of the reactor but then when filter is turned back on again it soon dissolves.
Welcome to UKAPS...
Greenline are selling it - http://www.aquaticplants.eu.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eaquaticplants%2eeu%2ecom%2facatalog%2findex%2ehtml&WD=blyxa&SHOP=%20&PN=Mid_ground%2ehtml%23a68#a68
I recommend blyxa japonica as well and have used it in my tank with great success. It is actually a stem plant if you look closely. Have found it doesn't like a change in water parameters or being uprooted too much.