Two pieces of semi flexible netting with 4mm holes, I overlaped them and secured the edges with fishing line, prior to sowing I open the 4mm holes to 8mm and pushed some medium size suction cups through the back netting, these could not be seen hidden by the front netting. Looked great the...
The support legs on the lighting unit are not long enough, so the light intensity is to bright due to distance between the lighting unit and the top of the water / tank. You need to reduce the light intensity either by the controller if there is one or lift the lighting unit up.
considering changing my filter media as it looking a bit worse for wear now, 'im using an Eheim Ecco Pro 300 it has three tray, bottom tray has a coarse foam used as a pre cleaner, next tray has plastic tubes and the top tray has small cintred glass ball as per supplied with the filter...
Ordinary co2 diffuser underneath the intake pipe to the filter - small co2 bubbles into the filter were they get mashed up even more - thus no bubble emitted from my lily outlet and no bubbles floating around. The diffuser is hidden by my plant, the only issue is the green co2 pipe its visable...
Algae is caused by not get the balance between the following: fertz / lights / Co2. Your tank has slow growth plants so you dont need masses of light, 5 hrs would be fine and one lighting period - splitting the period 5.4.5 does not help. Plants consume fertz during lighting period so they...
I fill my tank up using a hose pipe - connected to the kitchen sink tap which is a mixer tap, cold water from the rising main and hot water from the hot water cylinder then I just the mix to get the correct temp.
reactors when full of fliter media usually slow the flow rate down from the filter, filter media is needed to mash the Co2 bubbles up. An easy way is the place a Co2 diffuser underneath the external filter inlet pipe, the Co2 gas bubbles will be mashed up whilst passing through the filter...
No - reading through one of your previous thread https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/algae-identification.58371/ you have altered your lighting period, changes to Co2 and the algae has gone. Excessive ligthing is the route of all evil algae.
I had a diatoms issue for years and it disappeared...
Tank spec's would help: tank size - how many litres, what filter inc. flow rate, fertz regime, Co2 - yes or no, the big question "how much light T5 or LED and lighting period - how long.
Im going to say your lighting is to bright and the lighting period to long.
Always had an issue with diatoms only minor / medum and after reading a thread on here I change from 1x 11 watt 6500k 865 daylight (for SAD symdrome) and 1 x 11 watt 2700K 840 warm white , I was only using one CFL which was the 6500k, the tank should be running with 2 x 11 watts as...
As per above,
2 x 7 watts CFL tubes @ 4000k which gives me 0.969 watts per gallon / 910 Lumens
2 x 9 watts CFL @ 4000K which would give me 1.24 watts per gallon / 1166 lumens
2 x 11 watts CFL @ 4000k which give me 1.5 watts per gallon / 1800 lumens
does the latter seem excessive -
Arh now we have a better picture of whats going wrong - the key thing to getting a correct diagnosis of algae issue is giving all relevant information ie tank position, lighting, fertz, planting regime and contents of aquariums.
The issue is the strong afternoon sunlight - so move the shrimp jar so it not in direct sunlight if you cannot physical move it put something between the window and the jar to stop the sunlight getting ot the jar .
by adding more lighting your plants will grow better and quicker - but the downside is that you will require more injected Co2 gas, you will have to increase your fertz regime, possibly have to increase the flow in the tank and then there is the risk of the dreaded "ALGAE" I would leave...
Looking back through your previous thread postings https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/first-aquascape.58314/. Lighting is your problem too bright and too close the water surface. LED lighting is bright (intensity wise) you need to lift up the lighting unit ie suspend it from the ceiling on...
I have a Aqua mode 600 - 14.44 gallons or 65 litres, EI fertz and Co2 injection, furna is crypts and Blyax
Current running with 2 x 7 watts CFL tubes @ 4000k which gives me 0.969 watts per gallon
possibility of 2 x 9 watts CFL @ 4000K which would give me 1.24 watts per gallon
or I could use 2...
Water will alway get into the Co2 diffuser when the Co2 is not in use, the gas (C02) pressure will force the water out of the diffuser and enter back into it when the gas pressure has depleated, you have done the correct thing add a check valve as you dont want water in the solenoid. As for the...
Always suffered from diatoms on the leaves - was running with CFL tubes x 1 @ 11 watts 6500K day light over 65 litres or 14.44 gallons which gave me 1.5watts/ gallon which seemed excessive, now changed to 2 x 7 watts 4000K which now gives me 0.9 watts per gallon - so see how thats goes on.
To sustain good plant growth you need light, fertz and Co2. If you have bright lights or high lighting / long periods of lighting you need lots of fertz and plenty of Co2. LED lighting is bright so I work on the prinicple that bright lights needs high fertz regime and high rate of Co2...
turn your lighting period down to 5 hrs, double you dose of liquid carbon, triple does your fertz, 50% water change every week and buy some shrimps - let everything settle before you add Co2.
The pictures are a bit deceiving there is about 30 stems in there, I have no room to plant anymore, ever struggle to wipe teh glass. I bought four pot and I must of used at least 3 1/2 pots averaging 10 - 12 stem per pot and they are spaced out an 1" or 25mm between the stem. Iwill take...
Going to cut semi hard at the weekend - rows 2 & 3 are to cut back just leaving 2 / 3 sets of leafs up from substrate and row 1, 2 sets of leafs up from the substrate I think it will stand it but your thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks for your input too
With a tank of 183Litre I would use E.I fertz (these being dry salts) http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=dosing-with-dry-salts. As for stocking levels (fish and Shrimps) add those before you add your Co2 gas - I would let your tank settle in before adding the gas.
As for Co2 I would look on...
Please find attached pictures taken today - back two rows are very similar in height. Some of the stems front, middle and back rows are showing signs of side shoots. Are you saying that I should cut a third of the stems away on both rows (middle and back) and then do the same to the front...
I have three rows of stems, some of the stems on the back row are reaching te desired height so I am nipping the tips, when the second row reaches the desired height I will nip those tips out and likewise on the front row. Once the side shoots of the three rows reach the same...
Quick question above staurogyne repens some of my stem are at the correct height as I am trying to tier or produce a slope with the growth - low at the front and semi high at the back (just to hide the stem on my crypt's) nipping the tip out should stop the upward growth, thus producing...
I would plant as normal, then place the mesh over the top and make some "U" shapes from garden wire to peg the mesh down. Hopefully once the harigrass starts to grow it will come through the mess same principle as the moss grows on mesh pokes through the hole.
Nout to do with Co2 as XIM say and I'm of the same opinion - your issue is your lighting especially the 10 blue & 10 red, the 6500K is ok, its class as a cool white light probably as close to natural day light, 5000K is more of a natural light but probably hard to find LED with that colour...
If this is your first planted tank - my view - keep your tank low tech, but buy some decent substrate like ADA as for plants crypts (foreground plants) Echinodours (midground plants) these plants can be quite striking and dont need much work - they look after themselves. Fertz Neutro +...
As per the above thread title - are these 1-2 grow plants any good, grown within a lab where there is abundance of Co2 - I would expect poor growth until the plant becomes use to being submerged underwater are my thoughts correct and are they worth paying the extra money or should...
LED lighting is bright - bright light = lots of fertz + lots of co2 + good flow. I would incease fertz regime to 15mls and reduce your lighting period to 5 hrs and monitor plant condition if possible raise the lighting hood up to reduce the intincity of the lights say 12" from the top of the...
Well I have to disagree - been running like this for 12 mouths with no issues at all.
Depends which Neutro or Tropica fertz your purchase.
Tropica Premium & Neutro T fertz is just a trace mix - for low tech tank with out Co2
hightech tank with Co2 injection.
Neutro + contains trace...
5mls of fertz does not seem a lot - could you advise on the fertz you are using.
I use E.I for my 60 ltr tank, but I treble the quantity of dry salts used in my mix, but reduced the amount of mls added daily to the tank by 1/3. This is what I was refering to when I said tweeking your...
What quantity of fertz are you dosing at the moment.
I too dose with E.I but I mix my fertz to what I thing is right, I started off low dosing and tweeked my fertz to suit and I dose my NPK & trace on the same day not alternative days and its worked for me.
Could you advise of the lighting period - if its greater than 5 hrs especially with LED lighting as it very bright - I would turn down your lighting period to 5 hours max.
High lighting Inc. excessive time period trips the algea into growing ( that my view), so balance your fertz + co2...
There is a all in one Fertz available Neutro+ this contains all element plants require for growth NPK (macro nutrient + Trace Elements) https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/bmz_cache/n/neutro-mediumjpg.image.330x330.jpg currently you are just adding a trace elements Neutro T. A low tech...
I should have stated last night in my thread reply - that the LPH stated by filter manufactures is when there is no filter media within the canister, I had a Eheim 2080 filter LPH was about 1850 (i think) once the media was added the flowrate decreased by half :wideyed:.
A lot the guy's...
Just stock my 60 ltr tank with ember tetra's super looking fish and they are only tiny.
As for Co2 injection add fish, let the tank cycle with them - then add your co2 but do it gradually and build up the levels over a few weeks.
A couple of weeks ago I suffered from minor melting after I had moved some crypts trimmed the roots and re-planted, I think the main reason for the melts was due to the big water change that I did at the same time at least 3/4 of the tank capacity. James Findley of the green machine told me many...
Can anyboby advise on a foreground plants - I would prefer a leafy plant rather than a carpet covering plant like hair grass or glosso etc, maximum height 1" to 3" so it hides the stem on my crypt plants - any ideas would be helpful.
There lies the problem. I have tried and it does not work - well didn't for me. My idea was to get an established tank full of tank than add fish but I ended up with diatoms. Get some fish / shrimps in there it will help removing the algae
I want to make a moss wall - could any advise on the quantity of moss required to cover an area of 50 x 30cm and what is the best moss for a wall.
As for the mesh I was considering whether this would be ok to use...
Quick up date - all diatoms g
Quick update - change CFL tubes from white / red to 6500K day light CFL tube which are brighter, also increased my EI fertz regime and the diatoms has disappeared, Co2 injection still switched off.
I have a issue with my shrimps as per the thread title.
Amano shrimps - bought 4 at the end of last years still got 4, shed their skin on a regular basis.
Red Cherry shrimp - bought a batch of 10 - nine died bought some more (10) only two are currently alive.
One thing I have...