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Got a pic?

I live in Ealing but am always driving all around!

Hi Ryan, The stand in the previous photo you posted is from Ikea? It looks great! I thought it was an ADA cabinet!

Thanks for the info Darrel. What's the best way to supplement their diet then, kale and spinach? Do you blanch it first or just chuck it in raw?

So people. It looks like I've gone and done it! Brought the 60P home this afternoon. Now the most important things are lights and a cabinet. I don't fancy spending hundreds of pounds on the cabinet, does anyone have any recommendations for something that will do the job and do it well...

I have high Co2 levels, but massive steady flow and (I think) high oxygen levels. My ottos are all inactive day and night. It's rare that I see them move.

Pentazona, they are pretty placid. It could be the silvertip tetras causing aggro.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll keep a close eye on them to make sure they're not being pestered by the other fish.

Hi all, I have had a lot of trouble keeping otocinclus alive in my high-tech planted tank. There is plenty for them to eat, and I cannot see of any particular reason why they always seem to get sick and die. The fish appear healthy in all other respects (they have full bellies, gills not...

Fantastic, thanks a lot for the details. Looks like just what I need!

Ryan, Your tank is fantastic, great work. Exactly the kind of thing I have in mind for my own. About the TMC Aquabar. What do you use to actually fix it onto the tank?

Thanks a lot for the reply, that's really helpful. I'll check out your journal now.

Hi all, I am after a bit of advice. I have the opportunity to get myself an ADA 60P (tank only). I have been wanting to set up a low-tech shrimp tank for a long time now, but never got around to it. I have had a 125L high-tech tank for a few years now and I am very happy with how the tank is...

Keep going George! We believe in you!

A healthy tank

Your tank is far too small for SAE. They need at least a 3 foot when they are fully grown, and should be kept in groups of 3 minimum. My 125 was not big enough for them, and your 60 is less than half the size.

This tank is fantastic and the Valley of Colours looks like it's going to be amazing.

The OP is talking about a "bad batch" of KNO3. Although I'm not sure what that means.

In response to Jose: 1) in my opinion, algae eaters are nothing to do with BBA in high flow areas. The only algae eaters that eat BBA are Siamese algae eaters. Ottos etc don't touch it. 2) too much light? I never, ever had BBA in the years when I had no Co2 and kept my lights on for 12 hours...

No aliens in Interstellar :p

No-one knows what causes BBA. Anyone who says they do is lying. I don't think it's algae at all, but waste products left behind by 5-dimensional aliens as they pass through our 4-dimensional universe.

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/index.php?threads/What-exactly-causes-BBA%3F.36674/

I would go for about 10 green neon tetras.

Thanks for the replies. Something like this? http://www.wilko.com/homebrew-accessories+equipment/wilko-thermometer-12-inch-spirit/invt/0022574

Hi folks, This is one of those things that has bothered me for my entire fishkeeping career. I have never been able to find an accurate in-tank thermometer. The best I have found is one built into the Seneye Home, but I don't use that in my tank anymore since it's a pain to have a computer...

Sorry to be pedantic, but what do we mean when we say "organics"?

The tank is the ADA tank downstairs, it's moderately stocked with cardinal tetras. Here is another example of an ADA tank they have upstairs. Beautiful carpet, very healthy plants, and loads of pearling. An in-tank glass diffuser with Co2 bubbles going straight to the surface of the...

Jose, frankly your comments on this forum have become laughable. You choose to repeat the same conclusions over and over, with no scientific evidence to support any of it, and when people question the science behind it, your answer is 'I don't need to prove anything to a person that doesn't want...

Please can you show me the 'empirical observations' that lead to the conclusion that limiting phosphates reduces the plant's demand for Co2?

Because you just made a stipulative generalisation with no evidence to support it.

How exactly does low phosphate limit the Co2 demand from plants? In particular, what are the molecular processes involved in this?

So, 245 posts later- what have we learned?

I go in there regularly and can tell you that it's looked like that for nearly a year now.

Just to give you guys some perspective. http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/is-it-just-random-luck.36795/ There's no BBA in this tank.

I paid a visit to Aquatic Design Centre yesterday because I wanted to take photos of an ADA tank there that I've had my eye on for a while. It is the best plant growth I have ever seen in a tank, online or otherwise. As you can see from the last picture, Co2 is fed from a single glass...

How did we get to this conclusion... The cause of BBA is excess nutrients?? *bangs head against wall*

Too much light. Cheers,

Looks like I hit a nerve there. I didn't realise that you have such strong feelings for the man, I won't make any comments about it in future.

Jose, all joking aside, are you actually in love with this man? I'd be interested to hear if anybody has any ideas as to why I get BBA on my spray bars, but nowhere else in the tank.

Just to add my experience. The first year of owning my tank, I had no idea what I was doing. Basic plants (swords and crypts), 14 hours of light every day, no Co2, no ferts, low flow, 20% weekly water changes. No BBA. Now: Loads of plants, 7 hours of light, high Co2, massive flow, 50%...

I don't understand it at all. My dream tank (at Aquatic Design Centre) is set up like this: High light Single glass diffuser (bubbles floating straight up to the surface) Single Eheim outflow at opposite side of tank to the diffuser Low flow, no surface agitation Loads of beautiful healthy...

My favourite lens of all time :) Tank looks great, as ever.

Jose, do you have a Tom Barr shrine in your house?

I would strongly urge you to connect a spray bar to the Juwel outlet. Circulation pattern is more important than flow IMO.

On my Juwel Rio 125 (read: 125), I have a 1000lph Juwel internal filter connected to an Eheim Spray bar, and a 1250lph Eheim 3 600 filter. I would never go for anything less than 15x turnover in a planted tank.

Beautiful tank. This is how I envision mine will look, one day...

I use RO water and so I re-mineralise with JBL Aquadur. That's just because I refuse to use London tap water, though.

OK I did promise myself that I wouldn't waste my time replying here anymore but I just want to say one thing. This debate is not about 'agreeing' or personal 'beliefs'. It's about science, and well-attested chemical facts which for some obscure reason you seem to be denying. In more basic...

LOL HE'S TROLLING US

Ah, I see. You'd rather continue being wrong. That's fine by me, but this thread may as well be locked since you're not paying attention to a single thing anyone says here. This is my last comment here. My previous post contains all the information you need.

http://users.rowan.edu/~jahan/Jahan-Hands%20on%20an%20Aquarium/lecturelabs/interactionsphetc.pdf Go to the section on the second page, entitled 'alkalinity, pH and Carbon Dioxide concentrations' In water with moderate to high alkalinity (good buffering capacity) and similar hardness levels...

There's no point continuing this discussion because you seem to think that you have a better knowledge of chemistry than qualified, trained scientists do. Read the peer-reviewed paper in the post below. You can continue being wrong if you prefer, I can't be bothered to argue with you anymore.

And also please provide a chart with fish on the X-axis and Co2 on the Y-axis?

Me too, I'm looking forward to his reply.

What are you even talking about? Don't you understand that KH buffers the pH? The higher the KH, the less your pH drop will be with the same amount of carbonic acid dissolved in the water. It's ok if you want to deny this and say it's a lie, you'll just be wrong :)

...your fish. Furthermore, the Co2 concentration at the beginning of the injection period is rarely zero. So I you don't know what your concentration is to start with, how on earth do you work out when you have 30PPM? Finally, there are *many* other factors aside from carbonic acid that...

Yes, people on this forum seem to be obsessed with a "1 point pH drop before lights on". It's just an arbitrary calculation that depends entirely on the individual tank, I don't even bother testing my pH any more.

Looking really really nice

The question is... Are you really prepared to change 150 gallons of water per week?

The guy tested the TDS of the water and it was 150? Then he sold that to you as RO?

Listen to Clive.

Listen to Julian.

*popcorn*

Thanks for the replies guys. I was just wondering if there was any particular sponge that was better suited to aquarium use. I saw a video from Tyne Valley Aquatics and the guy was using a sponge that had lots of indentations on the underside, he said that helped to collect debris.

I want some coarse sponge for my filter (Eheim Pro 600). The only one they sell is for the pre- filter tray, so it has that big cut- out bit in the middle. I have that sponge, but I also want to put some sponge in the bottom tray. Can I buy a big sheet of coarse sponge somewhere and cut round...

3. Activation of the enzyme is very slow at the beginning of the photoperiod. The RuBisCO in algae is more efficient because algae have a mechanism which concentrates CO2 and holds it, so they respond very quickly to the daylight. This is why siestas are a very bad idea.

Instead of just "trying it out and hoping for the best", don't you want to actually understand the science behind photosynthesis and plant growth? If not, then give it a go and hope for the best. If however, you are interested in knowing exactly how plants use light and why a siesta is such a...

Brace yourselves.

I owned all 3 versions of this atomizer and they all leaked.

Here, I've even copied the relevant chunk here for you. The central role of RuBisCO in the process of photosynthesis means that it must be tightly regulated, to ensure that it is active only where and when it should be. One important layer of this regulation is the activation of RuBisCO at...

Split photoperiod is never a good thing. http://ukaps.org/forum/threads/ei-calculators.26669/#post-277421 Please carefully read this article about Rubisco. after reading it you will understand why you shouldn't have a split photoperiod.

I do have areas of weaker flow, but that is mostly in the back of the tank in hidden areas where the fish wouldn't be visible. So I think they'd probably spend all their time hiding out of sight.

Thanks Clive. I will consider going the tap water route. But I am reluctant to switch from RO after many years of having full control over water parameters and being able to keep the TDS as low as I like. I just had a lot of problems before I switched to RO.

I am having a bit of a re- stock of my tank and am thinking of maybe getting a pair of rams. First of all, will they be too territorial for my current fish? 125 litre heavily planted tank: 17 cardinal tetras 3 Pentazona barbs 2 corydoras trilineatus 3 zebra danios I used to have more...

I would really like to get a few glass catfish, but I have read that they don't like high flow. Is this right? Would 6-7 of them be ok in my Rio 125, with massive flow? (2250 lph combined through two spray bars)

Clive, cardinals do not thrive in water that hard. I know they don't. They only started properly colouring up and getting full rounded bodies when I switched to RO.

Thanks for all the replies. My RO unit is very efficient, with virtually no waste water. This is because I am using a 130 PSI booster pump, and I have piggy- backed two 75 GPD membranes in sequence. The waste tap from one membrane runs into the input for the other membrane. So waste is not an...

West London

Oh, phosphates are over 10 ppm and nitrates are about 40 ppm

I keep Cardinal tetras. My tap water is TDS 350- 400, KH is above 10, GH is about 20.

It has to be RO.

Hi guys, I have had my 125 litre tank for a few years now, and I do 50% weekly water changes with RO. We're having my room refurbished in May and I would like to get a bigger tank for when that happens. I'm looking at the Juwel Rio 300 and the Rio 400. The 300 is 350 litres, which would mean...

The thread is nothing more than another powerful illusion of the matrix. Cheers,

Let's be honest, we all do it. Some of us fiddle once a week, some a few times a week, some of us may even fiddle several times in the same day! So how often do you fiddle with your tank? Apart from the weekly water change, how often do you trim plants/ scrape algae/ play with the scape? For...

You do that every night before you go to bed?

Too much light. Cheers,

Sounds like you need a diaphragm pump for your RO unit. My tap water is the hardest in England apparently. And with a diaphragm pump to put 110 PSI Through the unit, I get 2 parts RO to 1 part waste. Before I had the pump and the unit pressure was like 35-40 PSI, the ratio was about 3:1...

The man is back from his holidays and he means business!

Amazing tank. And all of that without EI...

That's because of the number of holes in the spray bar. Use your Fluval spray bar with the APS filter and you will see that the APS flow is comparable to the Fluval. Many people complain about the lph of the APS. In reality, this is just due to the fact that the APS spray bars have so many holes.

Yes. Use the APS.

I never paid for the slides. A slide will accurately measure pH and ammonia for well over a month. The slides can be used for about 3-4 months without any loss of accuracy. The only thing you don't get are the text notifications, but you don't need those anyway if you install the Seneye app.

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/seneye.31700/ Read through that thread

I have a Seneye Home. Don't get me started on it, but the slides are incapable of measuring pH in water with KH less than 5. They have been promising a "low pH slide" for over 2 years now, but it never materialises. My Seneye Home is just an expensive thermometer. It can't measure pH in...

Yes, look at the Tapatalk support forums. they are aware of the massive cock- up and are going to roll out a new update over the weekend

*popcorn*

Thanks both!

Zak, From personal experience, I would now never keep nerite snails in a tank with pH less than 7. They come from brackish water, which is obviously very hard. So they really need alkaline, hard water. Go for ottos instead.

I apologise in advance if this has been asked before. I have all the macro salts, and trace mix for dosing EI. I was wondering if I could somehow make an all- in- one mix for a small nano tank I have. The reason being that I am going to be doing daily water changes on this tank, so dosing on...