The scientific way would be a PAR meter if you have access to one. Other than that, your next best option is comparing similar setups to yours and seeing how they fare. Final call would be to just give it a go and see how the plants do.
I've had no end of issues with my Ebi due to the light being TOO bright! I'm stripping it down and restarting it today because algae is too established for me to win. Does your not have the U-shaped fluorescent tube in a reflector cover? Mine puts out a truly huge amount of light.
They won't die, as Clive said earlier, the light level issue is a bit of a myth, what is far more important is the ratio of light to CO2. It looks like this tank has too much light for the amount of co2,and since you said the co2 is at the max level, that means lowering the lighting.
The T8 light fitting in my Rio 180 won't turn on anymore. Unfortunately I have no spare bulbs, so I was wondering if there was any other way of identifying whether it was a bulb or the ballast which had gone?
Thanks for the pointer. I'm just trying to come up with a way to reduce costs if possible, plus I like experimenting!
Also looking at "normal" T8 tubes at 6500k, trying to identify any difference, if any, to the "proper" aquarium tubes. Buying stuff when I can make it myself never really...
Presumably if anything that would be beneficial though to ensure even light distribution?
I'm going to bond it with tank silicon so that I don't run the risk of introducing any "nasty" chemicals to the tank with Bostik or similar.
I've just picked up a Trigon 190, with standard T8 lighting. I was intending to see how I got on with the T8s before contemplating the expenditure of T5s, and to that end was going to include reflectors.
Is there any reason why I can't glue some tinfoil to the inside of the lid to...