I agree with Clive on the CO2/Crypt melting scenario. It was probably Clive that first pointed it out to me. I can move Crypts around all the time, grow them in inert substrates, and I have never had one melt on me, apart from the odd damged leaf during planting.
Do you dose the water column with dry ferts, or has adding ferts at the roots additional to water column dosing brought on the improvement?
What you could do is mix the ferts with a little water to make ice cubes.
I would start with potassium nitrate, mono potassium phosphate and trace. You hadn`t covered phosphates. Look to get CO2 levels and all fert dispersion right from the outset. The forum stickies will be a great help for you, too. Add GH booster if you have soft water.
I just try to reduce the demands for ferts whilst I am away, so I start from the source of demand by reducing light intensity and duration. CO2 duration is also adjusted to suit the new photoperiod. I usually settle on a four hour photoperiod at half light. As soon as I get back, I give the tank...
Ferts are ferts, it doesn`t matter whether you inject CO2 or not. And using the salts is cheaper. The only real difference with dosing a CO2/non CO2 tank is whether the non actually needs any ferts adding other than what will occur through nitrification etc.
If you need to dose, then I would...
No plants "require" root tabs. Personally, I have never seen the point of them. Either buy a nutrient rich substrate, dose the water column, or do both. Root tabs strike me as an unnecessary hassle, but I have never used them, so maybe others can enlighten you further about them.
If you are to believe your test kit, then you need to ask yourself if any harm is being done. With nitrates up at around 100ppm, then you are possibly dosing too much (I haven`t checked your dosing figures...too lazy :roll: ). With low nitrate tap water, water changes should bring the levels...
It seems as if you know what you are doing, so it is really your decision as to where you go with dosing adjustments. Nobody here is going to have a feel for your tank and flows around it better than you.
If you feel growth should be a little more dynamic, try carefully tweaking the CO2 up a...
Paul, I promise to do my best to get round yours next weekend. :wink:
Nobody is holding anything back. UKAPS was set up to promote the hobby. Nevertheless, it is always hard to diagnose peoples` problems with just pics and words. For all we know, people may have messed up their fert...
Try shopping around nry. I can get a 3kg bottle for Â£10 from a place that supplies pubs, welding shops etc.
Whether you can get away with just liquid carbon and the lighting you have....BBA and staghorn will let you know. That is the beauty of algae, it tells you so much more than any test...
Provided you keep the water column fertilised (and TPN+ is well regarded for this), you shouldn`t need to mess around with root tabs. Having said that, I think some find TPN+ a little light on P, but I can`t speak from experience on this.
Chlorophyll requires N for it to be formed, so my guess is that your Rotala will become deficient in chlorophyll, and the redness from anthocyanins becomes predominant.
We all know chlorophyll gives plants a green pigment, so you are limiting this. You are walking a fine line with your N, in...
I have had a go at growing algae in RO water and sunlight, but I did this to show myself that high nitrates and phosphates don`t trigger algae, and that algae can thrive in a nutrient deficient environment, suggesting that nitrate and phosphate removers are a waste of money.
So we have algae spores sat in our tanks like ticking time bombs, waiting for the trigger mechanism to operate.....then we have an algae explosion.
What determines the type of algae that results? I know for sure that any CO2 problems in my tanks result in BBA and staghorn. A new tank...
I wish people would observe what is going on in their tanks a bit more. :D I hate to see any algae in my tanks, but it is a far better indicator of conditions than any coloured liquid in a test tube.
Fabrique Belgique, Rodney!
That`s an interesting write up, Clive. Algae spores looking purely for light and ammonia makes a lot of sense when I consider what it is exactly that I have done to trigger an algae bloom.
Is there a reputable source for this information? Not that I am saying your repuatation isn`t sufficient...
Funny you should mention "heavy root feeders", Clive, as I have had my doubts about this phrase, too.
My 60cm has just been rescaped, and I have made a point of planting some crypts in Aqua Soil, and some in to inert sand. I suspect the plants in the Aqua Soil will do better, but I also suspect...
There was only Excel at one point, but then Easycarbo came along as an alternative. So now you want another alternative. :D
I wonder if their is an alternative to the alternative you are looking for. :?
Amen to that, James. I wonder how many tanks I have seen being started up on TFF, and thought they were doomed to failure due to the lack of fast growing plant mass.
My Juwel Lido was my first ever tank, and I filled it out with fast growing stems. One year down the line, I find I can take...
To be honest, I wasn`t aware of MgSO4 being part of the EI regime.
Extra Mg can be added via GH booster at water change time. This will also supplement Ca levels as well. I have very soft tap water, so I use GH booster to compensate for this.
The Goldfish bit is interesting. My eldest...
Judging by people`s response to my initial question, your most cost effective option would be to buy the powdered trace from AquaEssentials. It would appear to be every bit as good as Tropica Plant Nutrition.
Has anybody noticed any significant improvement in dosing Tropica trace as opposed to powdered trace from AquaEssentials?
I have tried both, but I haven`t seen any real difference at all, and certainly not enough to justify the cost of continuing to use Tropica.
It would be interesting to hear...