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Chihiros Aquasky sunset/sunrise

A question popped into my head in the early hours of the morning - is the aquasky output voltage safe to use with the tc 420? I think it runs much higher than 12v will this pose a problem or even blow the led or tc420 if you try to run the 32v operating voltage through it?
 
A question popped into my head in the early hours of the morning - is the aquasky output voltage safe to use with the tc 420? I think it runs much higher than 12v will this pose a problem or even blow the led or tc420 if you try to run the 32v operating voltage through it?

I can't find the official specs for it. Is it definitely 32v operating voltage?
 
There was a thread on here - I'll try and find it where I think it might've been Ian a moderator posted a picture of the driver/power pack which showed the output voltage, it was regarding cheap dimmers so I think it was when it was just released......hang on, god knows how i got to it the last time......I'll be back with a link......

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/led-dimmer-solution-but.35341/

eta link added

eta ii - just noticed that was for the posh ADA aquasky - not sure if the voltages are different on the units
 
Looking on tc420.net it says "If you're using a power supply between 12 and 24 volts, you don't need to worry about this section. However, if you're using a power supply above 24 volts, something needs to be done so that the TC420 doesn't end up getting fried."

Am I right in thinking it will be fine because the power output on the one I have (60cm aquasky) is 19v? Or is that something different?

IMG_1219.jpg
 
Looking on tc420.net it says "If you're using a power supply between 12 and 24 volts, you don't need to worry about this section. However, if you're using a power supply above 24 volts, something needs to be done so that the TC420 doesn't end up getting fried."

Am I right in thinking it will be fine because the power output on the one I have (60cm aquasky) is 19v? Or is that something different?
I believe you are right. The problem would be if the LEDs needed more than 24V to operate, because the tc420 would be able to deal with that much power. Since the Chihiros adapter outputs 19V you're good to go!

The second diagram in that page is the way to go for you.
The image below shows a similar diagram for power supplies 24v or below. You can click on it to view a larger version.
TC420-High-Power-LED-Circuit-12v.png
 
Sounds good to me although the diagram looks slightly different to this setup? Don't I want the output channels to be V+ and CH1 and not CH1 and CH2 like the diagram suggests?

20161126_133342.jpg
 
In the google images I've seen the first three channels are for rgb and the other two have been used for warm and cold whites so I don't suppose it matters since you're only using a one colour led. I would use the 5th because that's how I saw it set it up used in accordance with rgb, but then I'm blind copying without scientific knowledge

mo.jpg


image courtesy of the planted tank
(http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...timer-pro-works-beamswork-led-fixtures-5.html)
 
The chihiros power supply in the above pic has a 19 volt - 2500mA output.. That is 2,5 amps :) this likely aint a constant current output for the Leds. A 2,5 amp constant current would be a massive high powered LED.. It likely is just the units power consumption.. 19x2,5 = 47.5 watt the power supp can provide. What is your unit ratted? 40 Watt?

What you could try to do without to much cost and hassle to test if it'll work.. Than buy a simple PWM motor controller like this.
https://www.banggood.com/Adjustable...-Controller-Switch-p-923041.html?rmmds=search

It has a 6-28 volt input and a max 3 amp load.. So the 2500mA your having can't burn it.. If you put 19 volt in it never can put more out only less.
Plug in the power supp into this controller and find your self a way to connect the leds to the other end screw pads.

You wont trash anything, it works or it doesn't... If it doesn't the leds start to flicker or make a beeping sound. But most likely they will just dim the moment you turn the pot meter..

If it doesn't work you wasted £ 2.98 :( ;)
It it works and dims without any issues, you can without any worries buy and connect the TC420. :)

I think it'll work, but spare me i have no personal experience with Chihiros lights..
 
Not sure I fully understand as I'm not hot on electronics but I get the jist of it so will give that a go I think. Already ordered the tc420 but it will take about 7 days to arrive so I will try what you suggested before it arrives.

Hopefully it will all work out great and I can upload a video with the results in a week or so.
 
If you already ordered that TC420, then just wait for it and connect it.. And see if it works, if you use the original chihiros power supply i do not see anything that you could break or damage.. You put 19 volts in and the TC420 likely will put 19 volts out at a full 100% setting. You will not be overloading the TC420 with 19 volts and a 40 watt drain on one channel.. And since it can't give more out than you put in, it also can't burn out any of the leds.

It'll work or it wont, simple as that, if it doesn't than you will not deffect anything. The leds wont burn and just shut off or start to flicker or you'll hear a beeping sound if you start to dim. Any of these cases it likely has a build in non dimmable driver on board in the housing. :) And that could very well be the case because 19 volt is not a regular voltage for standard SMD leds, these are 12 or 24 volt as for what the TC420 is designed.

The only way to find out, is ask Chihiros or open the lights and see whats inside or just connect it and try.

:)
 
I am going to try with a Chihiros 601 A-series Plus, interestingly the power brick supplied with this light is 12v - 6A LPS... tho i am not sure what that means! Have ordered the TC420 but will take about a month to arrive to Australia.
 
I am going to try with a Chihiros 601 A-series Plus, interestingly the power brick supplied with this light is 12v - 6A LPS... tho i am not sure what that means! Have ordered the TC420 but will take about a month to arrive to Australia.
The A stands for Ampèrage, that is the maximum current it can supply.. It's a bit distracting cause all you connect is ratted in Wattage.. Duh? o_O

But the sum is rather simple to find that out.. Volt x Amp = Watt in your case the power supply can be Max loaded with 12 x 6 = 72 Watt..

So do you load the power supply with more than 72 watt than it'll get hot till the point it burns out.. Ussualy they take about 5 to 10% margine.. So if you keep the connected lights not higher than 65 watt total, the power supply will live it's longest life. :)

The TC420 is rated total 20 amp. That is 20 over 5 channels.. So that makes 4 amp per channel.. Same sum.

12 volt = 12 x 4 = 48 watt per channel total.
24 volt = 24 x 4 = 96 watt per channel total.
 
The A stands for Ampèrage, that is the maximum current it can supply.. It's a bit distracting cause all you connect is ratted in Wattage.. Duh? o_O

But the sum is rather simple to find that out.. Volt x Amp = Watt in your case the power supply can be Max loaded with 12 x 6 = 72 Watt..

So do you load the power supply with more than 72 watt than it'll get hot till the point it burns out.. Ussualy they take about 5 to 10% margine.. So if you keep the connected lights not higher than 65 watt total, the power supply will live it's longest life. :)

The TC420 is rated total 20 amp. That is 20 over 5 channels.. So that makes 4 amp per channel.. Same sum.

12 volt = 12 x 4 = 48 watt per channel total.
24 volt = 24 x 4 = 96 watt per channel total.

Thanks for the explanation zozo very helpful, I have no knowledge of electronics! Interestingly my light is rated to run at "Power consumption: 65W" on full power (72 watt brick can handle this!) but I am guessing if I run the light on full power via the TC420 I am going to run into trouble as it can only handle 48 watt per channel? The good think is the Chihiros A-Seires Plus is to bright and I wouldn't be running it at 100% anyways) but just how close I get to the 48 watt level I am not sure. Does the same principle apply to the TC420, if I run it over the 48 watt level it will heat up and possibly burn out over time?

Thanks again
 
Does the same principle apply to the TC420, if I run it over the 48 watt level it will heat up and possibly burn out over time?

I have no clue, i never tried and never opened the device.. Most power supplies today have a shortcut and overheat protection they switch off or blow a fuse to prevent the fire department from saving your sorry ... The TC420 might just be zapped beyond repair, if you are lucky only the over powered channel. So with one in use might give you five tryouts.

I know a shortcut zapps only the channel and not the complete device. But never overpowered it till now.

Anyway the LED industry especialy China is about famous to Juggle with LED power specs. So the qeustion remains is the 65 watt a real time consumption or a output capacity comparison? This you can't know till you check it..

Put something like this in front of the TC420 and see how much it draws when you go up in intensity, the analysers will show when to stop and how much the led unit approximately draws in real time. Or check it up front without the TC420 first..
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Simp...32804031241.html?spm=2114.48010208.4.8.92j5Vm

https://www.banggood.com/20A-DC-Dig...-Ammeter-6_5V-100V-p-996111.html?rmmds=search
 
I have no clue, i never tried and never opened the device.. Most power supplies today have a shortcut and overheat protection they switch off or blow a fuse to prevent the fire department from saving your sorry ... The TC420 might just be zapped beyond repair, if you are lucky only the over powered channel. So with one in use might give you five tryouts.

I know a shortcut zapps only the channel and not the complete device. But never overpowered it till now.

Anyway the LED industry especialy China is about famous to Juggle with LED power specs. So the qeustion remains is the 65 watt a real time consumption or a output capacity comparison? This you can't know till you check it..

Put something like this in front of the TC420 and see how much it draws when you go up in intensity, the analysers will show when to stop and how much the led unit approximately draws in real time. Or check it up front without the TC420 first..
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Simp...32804031241.html?spm=2114.48010208.4.8.92j5Vm

https://www.banggood.com/20A-DC-Dig...-Ammeter-6_5V-100V-p-996111.html?rmmds=search

No problems, will try source a power meter, thanks again.
 
Thanks for the explanation zozo very helpful, I have no knowledge of electronics! Interestingly my light is rated to run at "Power consumption: 65W" on full power (72 watt brick can handle this!) but I am guessing if I run the light on full power via the TC420 I am going to run into trouble as it can only handle 48 watt per channel? The good think is the Chihiros A-Seires Plus is to bright and I wouldn't be running it at 100% anyways) but just how close I get to the 48 watt level I am not sure. Does the same principle apply to the TC420, if I run it over the 48 watt level it will heat up and possibly burn out over time?

Thanks again

The actual limit with the TC420 is 4A per channel, the amount of power therefore varies with the voltage of the supply to the TC420 and hence on to the LED's. Do you know what the output voltage of the power supply for the Chihiros A Plus light that you have is ? If so, divide 65 by the output voltage of the power supply and if it's less than 4 you're good to go.
 
The actual limit with the TC420 is 4A per channel, the amount of power therefore varies with the voltage of the supply to the TC420 and hence on to the LED's. Do you know what the output voltage of the power supply for the Chihiros A Plus light that you have is ? If so, divide 65 by the output voltage of the power supply and if it's less than 4 you're good to go.

On the brick it states Output: 12v - 6A LPS. So 65 divided by 12 = 5.4
 
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