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Fissidens fontanus hard water and temperature

Mosses like it cool in drystart, rather cooler than the plants.. If you look at nature, terrestrial mosses love to grow at the coolrer shaded spots. (Northside of the trees and rocks) I see it also happen in my north side garden where a lot of mosses grow, i see a lot of moss die in the summer even on very wet spots, just because it gets to much light and probably to much warmth by the sun.

Especialy Fissidens is a rather dificult dry start moss.. It is agonizingly slow and very temp sensitive.. I have some in a bottle on a piece of wood on the window sil.. It grew fine but not much all winter long, now in the summer all turned brown. There is no real benefit in drystarting fissidens, it grows faster and more secure submersed. You likely also will buy the submersed form. So waiting for it to transition to dry invironment, grow and then back to wet again takes a time span beyong drystart periode. It likely survive the 6 to 8 weeks a normal drystart is practiced but it will not bring you any wonders.

Only if you put the moss in a blender and brush on the pulp, you need to wait till you see it grow and attach before you flood. That i never tried with fissidens or any other moss.. If you flood before its growing and attaching you flush it all off with flooding.. But in a way, buying fissidens you will need a lot and spend quite some cash to have enough to put in the blender and get something out.
 
Unless you're gong to persevere with the blender method, a la George Farmer, I'd just tie it or glue it to your hardscape and flood immediately.
I've always found Fissidens to be quite forgiving in an aquatic environment - even low-energy it completely out competed my go to moss, Taxiphyllum barbieri, which was a big surprise, at least to me since it's supposedly hard to grow and requires a fair amount of CO2.
I have very hard water which it doesn't mind at all, in fact I think it prefers it; I even suspect it may be capable of synthesising carbon from bicarbonates, which I think may explain why it did so well low-energy despite the lack of CO2.
 
I was planning to do the blender method with a mix of Fissidens fontanus and riccardia chamedryfolia. But it sounds terrible If it is going to leave my hardscape for the price I am going to pay for it.

Anyone an idea If tropica Fissidens and mini pellia is emersed or submerged growth ?


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Tim Harrison said:
It usually comes on mesh, so I guess it's grown submersed http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Fissidensfontanus(002F)/4390
View attachment 106186
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Hmmm back from submerged to emersed and back to submerged sounds bad to. But the blender method will save me some money right? This moss is expensive!

I was planning to buy 4 cups of mini pellia and Fissidens fontanus.


To bad mosses like weeping etc don't attach Nice.


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I suppose it will, that is, if it works. Sometimes plants don't transition well.
But if you're determined, give it a go...it's all a learning curve;)
 
Here Dito, tho my hardness is a moderate gH 6.5 but the fissidens grows like a charm in low energy.. It even spreads on its own through the tank and pops up at the most unexpected places.. It just needs time to asteblish, it took mine about a year to do that and now i see fissidens growing in every corner of the tank. It indeed likes Co2, what i planted on the wood close to the surface, grows lush and dense, lower to the substrate it stays a tad smaller.. I have over 5 different moss sp growing in this tank most are unidentified and all do equaly well. The moss doing worst of all in a relative snese is the Flame moss, but even this one popup up at places i didn't plant it, while it went away where i did.. That's also a bit with moss, let nature take it's cause, it finds its way around by itself. In a well setup tank this also gives a more natural feel imho.. The only moss that needs a trim now and then, in my case, is some Taxiphyllum sp.

Tho i must admit, i have a bit of a secret weapon.. :) I don't often share it nor promote it, but i swear by it, it is a standard bottle in my cabinet.. Moss rocks on this stuff, epiphytes in general do beter, initialy it promotes Rhiziod growth and thats where epiphytes depend on to attach. :) I use it on all my plants, spray it during a drystart and add 10ml per 100L per week additional to the ferts in the tank water.
 
Tim Harrison said:
Good tip, thanks for sharing Marcel:)
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Jason from GBG also used it as spray on his Orchids and Tillandsias on wood and epiweb emersed above his latest scape.. He was very positive about the results. That stuff realy works, as said especialy epiphytes attach much faster and establish sooner. :) Note: It raises pH, so don't dose it in tank water as described on the label. It is developped and tested on terrestrial vegitation. It's personal trail and experimenting on the proper dose. I have good results on 5 to 10 ml per 50 litre without any effect on the pH. And it's a bit expensive to use more than necessary.
 
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