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40 years and still going!

A quick update on progress.
Plants are all ordered and hopefully will be available this week.
I would ask if you could check over how I have my various timers set up and let me know if you think I should change anything. Although I have included the automated fert dosing I'm following TGM's advice and will be dosing manually until week 9.
Also if anyone has experience with GroBeam 1500 Ultima tiles I would appreciate any advice on duration and intensity for the first few weeks of setup. I have 2 tiles on a 8 channel controller.

CO2 on 0900
Lights on 1030 at 0% ramping up for 30 minutes to 70%
CO2 off 1600
Lights off 1700 at 70% ramping down 30 minutes to 0%
Air pump on 2000
Fert dose 2359 (Macro/Micr. None on day 7)
Air pump off 0800
 
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Hi, Have enjoyed your journal so far - your original tank really was made to last - that's marvellous! I like your hardscape & diy platform ☺ With such attention to detail (& experience) I'm sure your tank will look great ☺

I relatively new also & don't run co2 so can't advise on your set up but good luck!
 
Plants arrived yesterday and safely stored in my existing tank so that I could have a full day planting and setting up today.
I didn't manage to get all of the plants I ordered, in particular Eleocharis Acicularis "Mini" and E Parvila but instead got Eleocharis Aciculars, which I understand grows a bit taller than those previously mentioned. Anyway I have enough variety, of 'easy' plants to get under way.
Couple of things I've learnt today. Tweezers are a must for planting.
ADA Amazonian substrate is so light even a gnat fart will send it flying in all directions. I think either Alto or Chris may have mentioned this to me in previous posts and after a slight accident with the filling hose I've made my mind up that the Clown Loaches will have to be re-house.
The following pictures where taken after all the planting was finished and the heating, pump/filter and co2 switched on. Now for 50% water changes for the next week.....Oh! joy.

I would still appreciate any comments regarding my previous post on the various times I have set things to come on and go off as well as any advice on the GroBeam 1500 tiles.
Planted1.jpg
Planted2.jpg
Planted3.jpg

More posts to come as the tank matures.
 
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Not sure why I got a duplicate of every picture...but hey that was 7 days ago. (I've sorted that now)
So here I am on day 7 of my new tank and the first week of 50% water changes over. The tank is looking good apart from an outbreak of tiny snails which obviously came free with the plants.
On day 3 I realised that although I had previously tested my pump/filter I had taken all the filter medium out to do so and then, after the testing, put it back still in the plastic bags. So my pump /filter had been running for three days doing nothing but put co2 into the tank. What a plonker!!!

The plants seem to have established with the Ceratophyllum Demersum (Hornwort) reaching the surface. I will cut it back after the next water change. One thing I have learnt with this plant is that it is very delicate, easy to break bits off it and without roots easy to dislodge from the substrate. I actually manage to suck a whole plant out of the tank whilst doing a water change. I have a sheet of lead in the garage and as I replant I'll tie the shoots together with cotton and then place a strip of lead around the cotton. That way I won't keep disturbing the substrate trying to bury the plant deep enough to stop it floating free.
The Eleocharis Acicularis (Hairgrass) has started to produce new growth but as yet I've not seen any runners.
It looks like the top leaves of the Staurogyne Repens 'Rubin' are changing colour and started to go red.

My only concern is that my drop checker turned lime green once I started the system up and despite having the co2 go off and hour before the lights and running an airstone overnight it has remained the same colour. Obviously the co2 is getting into the water but is it 'normal' for the drop checker to remain lime green?

A picture
to show the weeks growth. Sorry about all of the reflections.



15Day7.JPG
 
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Day 14 and the plants continue to grow. I've had to cut the Ceratophyllum Demersum (CD) back twice this week it grows so fast. As I said in last weeks update it is a very fragile plant and at todays water change I managed to up-root several plants. Although I've read this is an excellent 'Silver Bullet' in new tanks at keeping algae at bay I think I may look at replacing it on the right hand side of the tank where I put my hoses in for the water change. It's also difficult to get to the outlet strainer to clean it with disturbing the CD. Any suggestions for a background stem plant (that roots) would be appreciated.
The Eleocharis Acicularis (EA) is really taking off now and I can see lots of small white runners spreading through the substrate. I want to keep the EA fairly short but I think I will wait for a few more weeks, to let it really get established, before I trim it. Both Ludwigia Repens (LR) and LR 'Rubin' are growing well with the Rubens showing nice colour contrast. Some of the lower leaves are falling off so I am going to up the light intensity from 70% to 75% and see if this helps.
I've been doing a 50% water change every day for the past 14 days so from this week I reduce it to 50% every other day for a couple of weeks.

I've copied a previous post as I would ask if you could check over how I have my various timers set up and let me know if you think I should change anything. Although I have included the automated fert dosing I'm following TGM's advice and will be dosing manually until week 9.
Also if anyone has experience with GroBeam 1500 Ultima tiles I would appreciate any advice on duration and intensity for the first few weeks of setup. I have 2 tiles on a 8 channel controller.

CO2 on 0900
Lights on 1030 at 0% ramping up for 30 minutes to 70%
CO2 off 1600
Lights off 1700 at 70% ramping down 30 minutes to 0%
Air pump on 2000
Fert dose 2359 (Macro/Micr. None on day 7)
Air pump off 0800

Picture of the tank at Day 14
Week3-1.jpg
 
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A fast growing alternative to hornwort would be hygrophila difformis (water wisteria) hardier & has a heavy root structure. It grows quite bushy so isn't to everyones taste. Another common easy plant is egeria densa or elodea crisp - both narrow stems but their appearance can deteriorate over time so are often removed once a tank has established well. Another I have used successfully in my low tech tanks is gymnocoronis spilanthoides - similar in appearance to hygrophila polysperma & very fast growing.

I expect you haven't had feedback on your dosing & timings as they are pretty much spot on. Most members run a shorter photoperiod in the first few weeks (5-6 hours) & increase slowly as plants become established. Although I don't personally run co2 on my tank's it seems commonplace to run it for a period before lights on (as you are doing).

If you are using EI method to dose ferts - it's usually macro day 1,3 & 5 and micro day 2 & 5 with a rest day 6 & water change day 7. This is to prevent macro & micro mixing & causing cloudiness but if your dosing both on same day I expect you use an all in one? The advice as per the brand or TGM is likely to be perfect in this case.

If your having problems with duplicate photos it might be useful to post in the the technical help section for advice ☺
 
Hi, this is looking really good. For specific answers to co2 and ferts questions you would be better posting qustions in the relevant forums. Re the green drop checker, have you tested the ph of your tank? I don't use a drop checker as my tank is very low ph and therefore the dc is always green.
There is the option of editing your posts after you have posted so you could just delete one photo if it annoys you. You can also preview your post and delete extras at that point.
 
Hi Manisha,
Thanks for your suggestions as alternatives to CD. I have grown Hygrophila Difformis in my present low tech tank but it got really big and began to take over the tank. I would imagine with co2 it would grown even faster. However it is an option, which like the other options you have kindly suggested, I will look into.
I have set my EI ferts up exactly as you suggested but after contacting The Green Machine they suggested not starting ferts until week 5 and then only around a quarter of the normal dose gradually increasing until week 9 or 10 when I can apply the recommended amount for my tank size.
I must have read your mind regarding the duplicate photo issue as I put my question in the technical forum yesterday.
Thank you again for your reply.
Chris.
 
Hi Lindy,
Thank you for your comments on the tank. I will take your advice and post my question regarding my set-up in the relevant forum. The main reason I asked here was because several experienced members commented on my journal and I had hoped they might reply.
I haven't tested the ph of my tank as I've read that unless you are prepared to spend big money on a quality tester then readings can be misleading. I have however just purchased a JBL Permanent co2 Plus ph tester. With it's white background and ph scale it is much easier to see the colour of the reagent. I can now see it is a blue/green before the co2 comes on and gets to the correct colour very soon after lights on.
As for the photos - I've tried editing my post but when I edit it only shows one picture, despite there being two, and if I hit delete the photo disappears altogether. I have put my question up on the technical forum but as yet had no replies.
Thank you for responding to my post.
Chris.
 
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Hi All,
Well it's day 21 of the newly set up tank and the past week has been a bit of a mixture of decision making. The Ceratophyllum Demersum (Hornwort) is definitely going to have to go. As I've already said I bought it because of it's reputation as a 'Silver Bullet' against algae but it's constantly floating free to the surface and is so delicate that it breaks up into lots of little pieces that get trapped in among the other plants. I've decided to use another nutrient hungry plant in it's place; Hygrophila Difformis (Water Wisteria). It's another very fast growing plant which absorbs nutrients but has the advantage of putting down a good root formation. I have grown this in my low tech tank so I know I'm in for some serious and regular pruning.
I noticed that the Staurogyne Repens (SR) on the right hand end of the tank looked a little pale and reading up on it in the plant guide I have it recommends high light levels to encourage it to spread along the substrate. I did raise my light level to 75% last week, so far without any adverse effect, but to help the SR I've moved one of my lighting tiles slightly closer to the end of the tank to see if that helps. Another thought was that the water flow at that end of the tank was not high enough. When I first got my tank the spray bar only covered around half of the tank and I rectified this by adding two additional pieces but I assume this reduced the outlet pressure. This week I took the spray bar out and taped over every third hole and that has really increased the flow along the whole length of the spray bar. It certainly seems to have made a difference as I've noticed that all the plants, from front to back, are now gently moving in the flow.
I've added a couple of pictures this week to show the progress of the plants. You will see that the hair-grass is really taking off now, growing quite tall and putting out runners. You can also see that the Ludwigia Repens 'Rubin' has taken on a red/orange hue. I think this looks really nice against the plain green Ludwigia.
One thing I am a little concerned about is that the working pressure of my co2 seems to drop back after it comes on. Originally I set it up to operate at 36psi, the minimum recommended for the UP atomizer to work. It seems to drop back to around 32psi through the day. When the solenoid shuts off the co2 the pressure rises to around 50psi, which I expect. However when the solenoid opens the valve at the start of the day the pressure drops to around 38psi and then over the day falls back to around 32-34 psi. I know this is not much of a drop but a) I need the correct pressure for the in line atomizer to work and b) I really don't want to have to adjust the pressure every day - after all what's the point of having an expensive regulator if it has to be adjusted manually. Anyone had a similar experience?

I'm having trouble uploading my pictures at the moment...so pictures to follow.
 
23Day21.jpg


First picture shows how well the Eleocharis acicularis is growing. Notice the white runners starting to spread into the substrate.

26Day21.jpg


The second picture shows the contrast between the Ludwigia repens 'Rubin' and the plain green LR. The photo doesn't really do justice to the actual colour the plants look in the tank.
 
Looks great. I would just carry on with the approach you are taking.
As you increase your light intensity and duration your LR should colour up even more.
I have found dosing iron once or twice a week along side EI on micro days really makes the reds come along.
 
Thanks Daveslaney,
I'll keep your advice on dosing iron in mind. As I've previously said I won't start EI until around week 5 and then only use a quarter of the recommended dose for the size of my tank. After week nine I will let the dosing pumps I've already calibrated and set up take over. (At the moment they are dosing plain water into the tank)
Many thanks for the encouragement.
Regards,
Chris.
 
Hi Chris, looking good!
PH is one thing that can be tested quite accurately with a cheap electronic instrument.
I guess the shop you mention, suggested not to dose because of the rich substrate you are using but most folk dose from day one with no ill effects.
If you are getting good growth from the 'more C02 dependent plants' and you don't notice any excessive algae then you are doing very well :)
 
Hi Foxfish and thanks for the nice comment.
I'm in two minds wether to purchase a PH pen. I've read so many conflicting reports......some say you need to spend big money to buy a pen that is accurate...other say buy a cheepo from eBay! Do you have one you could recommend?
Because I was having trouble seeing the reagent colour in my glass drop checker I bought a JBL Permanent co2 Plus ph tester. With it's white background and ph scale it is much easier to see the colour of the reagent.
With everything growing so well I'm on the constant lookout for algae but so far I've seen none. I hope saying that doesn't jinks my setup. I suspect that as well as getting rid of the ammonia from the ADA stubstrate, doing a 50% water change every day for the first 14 days and every other day for the following 14 has helped. Oh and of course planning heavily.
Regarding EI dosing, you are correct about the shop and the rich substrate. I've read the argument for and again dosing from the start and that's the reason I emailed the shop. Unless I see a serious decline in health/colour of the plants I'm going to stick the schedule I've drawn up.
Regards,
Chris.
 
Yes well in this day and age you can read anything about anything LOL
I used to be far more active on this forum but in recent years it seem so many people are out to prove your wrong by searching the net until they find a suitable post to quote you wrong... so I keep a lower profile nowadays!
However I will say that I am a fan of PH pens and even more of PH monitors, I have a little monitor that uses a small probe. I can see a PH reading at a glance, it cost about £40 from eBay. To be honest I don't actually use it at the moment because my tank is well established and stable but, I find that by taking regular PH reading I can adjust the amount of C02 more accurately that in any other way... especially on a new set up.
I would not concern yourself thought as it seems you are well on track doing exactly what you are doing.
 
Hi all,
Chrispy said:
As I said in last weeks update it is a very fragile plant and at todays water change I managed to up-root several plants.
Click to expand...
<"Ceratophyllum demersum"> doesn't need to be rooted, it is easier to manage if you just let it float as an under surface floater. The roots don't actually absorb any nutrients, they are just a physical anchor.
Chrispy said:
I've had to cut the Ceratophyllum Demersum (CD) back twice this week it grows so fast...........Although I've read this is an excellent 'Silver Bullet' in new tanks at keeping algae at bay
Click to expand...
I'd keep it because it is growing really quickly, it just shows you have lots of available nutrients.

There is nothing wrong with <"Hygrophila difformis">, but if you buy them the plants will have been grown emersed and need a little bit of time to acclimatize to being submersed. If you could get plants that have been grown submersed they will be ready acclimated.

cheers Darrel
 
foxfish said:
I used to be far more active on this forum but in recent years it seem so many people are out to prove your wrong by searching the net until they find a suitable post to quote you wrong... so I keep a lower profile nowadays!
Click to expand...
Hi Foxfish,
I think you're right....it would seem that everyone has an opinion on what's right and what's wrong. Although I've been keeping tropical fish for 40 years I'm a novice when it comes to high tech and so I'm prepared to listen to both sides of the argument........I'm long enough in the tooth to decide which approach to take. I'm into week 4 (day 25) and all seems to be progressing well other than an outbreak of tiny snails that must have come in with the plants. I've just knocked up a DIY snail trap which I will pop in the tank tonight. Talking of DIY I was very impressed with your Reactor. If I had seen this a couple of months ago before I started my set-up I might well have gone for a reactor rather than an atomiser. I don't relish the thought of having to take the pipework off the atomiser every time I have to clean it as I'm sure sooner or later I'm going to get a leak.
foxfish said:
I would not concern yourself thought as it seems you are well on track doing exactly what you are doing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the nice comment.
Regards,
Chris.
 
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