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60P - A Brief Crack of Light

Hi guys,

small update! The last couple of days have been quite troublesome, but I'm getting there!

After switching to 100% RO Water (mixed 50/50 RO and tap in the past) and adjusting the total hardness to my values the brown diatoms are disappearing and plant growth kicks in.

OK, the maintenance comes in addition:

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After 16 Days now, I'm going over to 50% water changes every other day.

This is how it looks a few minutes ago:

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A few information about my fert. dosing:

Every day 3 drops of (my own mixed) ADA Brighty K and 3 drops of ADA Step 2.
Blyxa Japonica is turning red, like the rotala as you can see.

I replaced the Staurogyne with Hemianthus micranthemoides, it was way too much light for the plant up there.
HCC is doing fine, like the Eleocharis Mini (I can see new runners now) and the Riccardia seems to start growing now, too.

Getting there... getting there...

By the way: This is how it looks with a black background (2 days ago... notice the difference in diatoms):

21090234420_eb887a835f_c.jpg

Cheers,
Christian
 
(my own mixed) ADA Brighty K and 3 drops of ADA Step 2.
I've done my own version of Brighty K (delivering the same amount of K but using potassium sulfate to avoid GH raising) but what do you mix for Step 2? I mean the difference between Step 1, 2 and 3 is really the amount of micros delivered, isn't it?
I use my DIY Brighty K combined with Flowgrow Mikro Basic and DIY Tropica Specialized... works great for me with enriched substrates

Jordi
 
The amount of micros seems to be the same, the difference is the amount of iron and K.
But I'm using the "original" Step 2 here, as I had one bottle left.

I used the Flowgrow Mikro Basic and "Iron" Basic in the past, based on calculations done with the nutrient calculator over @flowgrow.de
 
This scape is looking super clean, you must be pleased.

I've just started using ada eca to boost iron. I took just a few days, my wallichi is definitely more red. And the great thing is I didn't increase the light (intensity or duration).
 
I've just started using ada eca to boost iron. I took just a few days, my wallichi is definitely more red. And the great thing is I didn't increase the light (intensity or duration).
Hi all

What are ECA ingredients? Is it a very concentrated iron product? Strongly chelated or rapidly available?

Jordi
 
Eca contains iron(II) and iron(III) rapidly available


Gesendet von meinem iPhone mit Tapatalk
 
Hi Ukaps,

the brown diatomes are gone and left is only a few green covered stones, but almost clear again.
Growth is fantastic, can't complain but I'm going to replace some of the rotundefolia with colorata at the weekend for a little bit more contrast.

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Backing is not black... it's a dark blue one at the moment.

Cheers
Christian
 
Awesome, but as you say, red is going to improve it... I would try to include also a touch of it at the foreground bottom, maybe near the cave mouth, in your focal point. Just a repetition of the red you will have in the background. I've noticed these repetitions work in some layouts and in your case it will add even more depth and a little touch to the shaded area.
Wonderful Chris!

Jordi
 
Thanks guys!

That's a great idea Jordi, now I need to find a suitable red plant ;)
 
Looking very good. One of my fav UKAPS tanks at the moment.
Diatoms are ugly but they go away. Amazonia is known for that but the most outbreak i had was using Equo substrate. I think that it was a mix of filter, bad circulation, etc.

Pedro.
 
Thank you for the kind words guys!

Yesterday, I gave the SuperJet a good cleaning and changed the last filter media to BioRio!
Plus, I replaced the Rotundefolia on the right side completely and on the left side partially (only the background) with Colorata.

Adding Oxygen to the tank during lights out really makes a difference and only a few of hair algae is left.
Need to adjust CO2 a little bit more. But apart from this, tank is running smoothly now.

Sorry for the bad image quality... just a quick one:

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Cheers,
Chris
 
How are you adding oxygen? An air punp, increased surface agitation or something more sophisticated?

The tank is looking great and the colorata should make the colours a lot more varied (and red:))
 
On the right side, I have this little air stone + an attached air pump.
That's enough to get rid of any surface scum and give the drop checker a nice blue in the morning.
 
Adding Oxygen to the tank during lights out really makes a difference
Also for me... I now run an air pump on a timer during lights off. It helps when I am not home and I cannot lift the lily pipes, but I even run it when I'm home and the lily pipes are up.

This is going to be a great tank!
 
Good evening UKAPS,

I guess I owe you guys a little update.
The tank is doing great so far and I'm really impressed about the plant colours so far.

I reduced the "K" fertiliser and I'm only dosing it once per week 3ml. That seems to be enough according to my "K" water test.
Step 2 is dosed daily with 4ml, but it looks like I overdid it a little bit with the ECA as BBA is appearing on some areas on the stones. ARGHGHGGH I hate this type of algae, but it seems I'm still in control of it.

No dosing of Phosphates or Nitrate at the moment.

But enough of this... here are some new images (sorry, have to do a water change and clean the glas and tank... a little bit dirty ;) ):

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Cheers,
Chris
 
Hi Chris

Cool oxygenator... Is it DIY? I have the Eheim one which works very well but it is really ugly and much too big.

Another question: why do you measure K? I mean, I personally don't want too much nitrates or phosphates when the plant biomass is low or the tank is not stable (I know some folks will disagree), but there is an epic thread in UKAPS which explains why K excess is something not to be worried about, as K acts as an electrolyte and moves freely across the cell membranes. Sorry, not on my computer so I cannot quote the thread... Sorry, I wouldn't want to hijack your journal with this sort of discussion, feel free to ignore me ;)

Jordi
 
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