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1047mm t5 tube help

Frenchi

Frenchi

Member
Joined
15 Jan 2014
Messages
671
Location
West Yorkshire
hi
My tank has 2 x 1047mm 54watt t5's I'm realising that it is just a bit high in power but where can I get hold of some t5's that length but with less wattage?
I did have the tank full of floating plant but since I upped my flow they just all bunch up at one end of the tank and bury themselves..
If I can reduce the power I'm convinced the setup will be 100% perfect

Cheers

Mick
 
ian_m said:
You can't. T5 and T5 HO give a constant power out per length. Thus to halve light out put you have to have a tube half the length.

However you can get dimmable ballasts, thus you can replace the 2 x 54W ballast with a dimmable one.
Like this.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighting-ballasts/7275627/
Click to expand...
It's a juwel light uniit so looks like I'm stuck without changing the whole lot then :-/
Thank for the advice:)


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Frenchi said:
It's a juwel light uniit so looks like I'm stuck without changing the whole lot then :-/
Click to expand...
No still got plenty of options.
  • Cut light unit open at the top to get access to the wires to change the ballast. Hard but doable.
  • If you have reflectors, run without them or rotate round to lower light levels.
  • Put "rings" of foil around the tubes to block the light.
  • Put a sheet of darkened plastic between tank and lights.
So some options here.
 
ian_m said:
No still got plenty of options.
  • Cut light unit open at the top to get access to the wires to change the ballast. Hard but doable.
  • If you have reflectors, run without them or rotate round to lower light levels.
  • Put "rings" of foil around the tubes to block the light.
  • Put a sheet of darkened plastic between tank and lights.
So some options here.
Click to expand...
Fantastic thanks Ian :) I nice cut at the top sounds like an idea or the foil rings

Cheers :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can also use an airbrush to paint with a coat of white acrylic paint your tubes. Just an idea.
 
Frenchi said:
nice cut at the top sounds like an idea
Click to expand...
Reason for opening at the top is easier to seal afterwards.

I acquired a failed Juwel T8 unit and found the previous owner had had a go repairing, by opening at the bottom edge to get access to the electronic ballast after it had fallen in the tank.They got rid of if as they deemed it unrepairable, how ever using a hair dryer and a couple of days in airing cupboard it unit sprang to life...result. However despite my DIY (bodging) skills I was unable to 100% seal the opening and water always seeped in stopping the ballast. Tried silicone (worst as doesn't stick to plastic), as well as various hot glues and specialist plastic hot glues all eventually leaked. Unit went in bin after extracting ballast.

My other unit failed and opened it up from the top, repaired and glued back using hot glue and it lasted years (2003-2010) before it popped. Opening up easily again, showed "its dead Jim" so was replaced.
 
I think I will try the covering of the tube first then if that fails maybe as you suggest.. Open it up :) .. I can get my hands on a industrial plastic welder so that wouldn't be a problem..
Only I don't know how to use one lol :)


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You can buy neutral density filters from pro photo suppliers which comes as a thin sheet. They come in different strengths that will cut light by 25% all the way up to 75%. 1m sheets are about £4 each and you can wrap them around tube and tape quite easily.

Rod
 
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