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Decommission / Recommission

idris

Member
Joined
3 Jan 2011
Messages
816
Location
Herts
250L tank.
Some Vallis.
Lots of Crypt Wenditi (more than I want.)
Lots of algae of various types, on most of the plants and all the hardscaping.

I'd rather not have to do a complete strip down and replant with new.
I have another (smaller) tank I can move all the fish & inverts into on a temporary basis.

Option 1: Move all the livestock out and blitz the problem tank.
Option 2: Move half of the plants out of the problem tank into the smaller tank. When they're algae free, move the livestock into the smaller tank, and then blitz the problem tank.
Option 3: Same as option 2, except once the smaller tank is algar free, swap the plants between the two tanks.
Option 4: Put all the fish in the small tank, drain the problem tank and ... well I haven't figured that out.

I don't use ferts at all, or CO2.
Light is about 80W (I think) from 2xT8 tubes and about 8hr/d.
The substrate is about 2" deep Adakama.
The pump is a Tetratec EX1200 and there is an external 700l/hr Hydor pump, though that is throttled with a tap or it puts a huge amount of current through the tank. (Too much for some of the fish.)

I don't mind using ferts in the short term and have room (and finances) for another T8 tube if it's worth it. Increasing flow rate would be probelmatic.
Pulling the hardscaping out would be difficult as the wood only just goes through the opening (and was a **** to get in).
 
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(Reworded post above - I guess it didn't really ask the question I'm looking for an answer to.)
 
Reduce light period (6 hours), use some ferts as least now and then - it's not difficult (EI cheapest option), remove as much affected matter as you can.

Before you embark on stripping tank down it's probably worth trying a 3 day blackout, or an algae remedy of some sort (algexit for example) - although not an answer it may help you get back on an even keel and allow a bit of time for improvements.

Algea on the hardscape etc, probably worth trying livestock to get it clean. I'm still amazed by the number a trio of Siamese Algae Eaters did on a large bit of wood I had covered in BBA, they blitzed it once settled in. You can always move them on when their work is done but your tank sounds big enough for a couple or 3....

:)

PS - DON'T ADD MORE LIGHT! :D
 
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I'm wary of algicides, based on what Ceg has said:
... You are strongly advised against using these types of products and instead to fix the problem in your tank...
Though I have a lotof sympathy with getting back "on an even keel"!!!!!

I'll try a blackout again, though it's not made much difference on it's own when I've tried it before. That said I've improved the flow since then.

There's probably 4 or 5 sq ft of wood, and more rock. Sadly I'm not sure there's enough room for sufficient algae eaters. ;) My stock levels are low at the moment, but I've been resisting the urge to add more fish, in case I end up moving them to a smaller tank. But maybe I just need to choose them acording to diet, rather than what I'd like to watch. :(

With EI, what doeses of what mix would you recommend?
I've wondered about liquid carbon, but IIRC, it's not compatible with Valis.
 
I also don't really agree with the use of chemicals to treat algae and would always agree with CEG, he gives nothing but good advice and helped me out no end with my hi tech tank woes.

Saying that, I've never tried one myself but have heard of people having had some results using algexit, and if I was faced with the option of stripping a tank or trying an algaecide then I'd probably try one first. I'm just offering options really!

We all know the answer is to treat the cause...

With EI, I'd get the starter kit from APFUK (forum sponsor) and do their recommended mix. Just dose 1/5th of what it suggests for your low tech set up. I still tip probably way too much of my EI mix into my 20 litre low tech, at the end of the day I can't see it doing any harm ;)
 
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What sort of period should you hope to be able to de-algae a tank this size if using EI and lowering light?
 
IMO idris the plants are happy enough with 5 or 6 hours of light. The tank of mine above grew in like that in just 2 or 3 months on mostly 5 hours of light which amazed me for a low energy set up! This is how it started...

plantedfront_zpsb3d0c09d.jpg

As for de-algae, unless you have algae chompers in the tank i would certainly think your best bet is to remove as much affected matter as you can. In my experience, if you address the conditions (in your case this sounds like lack of ferts, maybe too long a light period etc) then manual removal and looking for healthy new growth is the way forward. Some advice CEG gave me, increase plant mass - he mentioned using simple fast growing species such as elodea etc and once you have a clean tank you can replace with (in his words) 'boutique' species :D

You say you have algae on the hardscape, liquid carbon is good for treating this directly, so do large waterchanges and expose as much of the hardscape as you can, then paint on neat liquid co2, taking care not to overdo it. The vallis/liquid carbon thing seems to be luck of the draw! I've never had success with vallis either way ha ha :D

On the waterchanges, any hardscape you can't expose, try a tooth brush to scrub, but always do this prior to a large water change to ensure you drain off the dirty water afterwards. Again, if you manually clean it then at least you can see if it stays clean or if you still have work to do if it comes back. Large waterchanges are definitely your friend, and i'd hold off adding more long term stock until you've got the tank sorted, as extra bioload won't help.

That is all just my opinion of course and based on the things that (eventually) worked for me :)
 
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Thanks Rob. I've ordered some ferts, will probably tear out a lot of the afflicted crypts and get something like some wysteria, and water changes are progressing.
I think this will take a lot of work. Thanks for the advice.
 
I wouldn't go mad tearing out the Crypts.
IME they'll grow back from just one leaf (just remove the worst), and more often than not from no leaves;as long as their's a half decent substrate.
You can also float the Wisteria in the short time, if you don't like the look of it planted.
Good luck.
 
I'd like to replace about half of the crypts anyway, it's all blighted with algae, and I figured the wysteria would starve the algae better as it's quicker growing.
 
That's a bit like asking someone to show you a picture of their fungal toe nail infection, but I'll see what I can do.
 
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