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Alternanthera reineckii Dying

Macro Solution
33g Potassium Nitrate
7.2g Potassium Phosphate
250ml Water
Trace Mix Solution
10g Chelated Trace Element Mix (TNC Trace, CSM+B)
250 ml Water

Using the daily schedule below add the following 3 times a week:
5ml of Macro solution per 50 litres of water
2.5ml of Trace solution per 50 litres of water



If i use this do you think that i dont need more??
I dont need magnesium and calcium? Even if i have 1.3mg/l of each in my tap water?
And iron? Dont i should use a extra iron?
The ppl use to apply potassium sulphate... Dont you think that is necessary?

If i use 100w in my 200L thank or 162watts, the fertilization is different?

Sorry but if i'm not boring you it was nice if you could tell me because i cant understand this by tutorials...
 
I'm not an expert but I think sometimes problems like these happen simply because the plant in question aren't taking up nutrients/CO2 as fast or as well as the other plants in the aquarium but I'm not implying alleopathy. For example, some people can grow HC in a low tech tank, but one common factor is that these low tech HC tanks contain little to no other species of plants because HC will likely to suffer to the plants that can adapt to lower CO2 level. This can be remedied in a high tech tank where you can provide more CO2/nutrients especially the former. So in this case what is happening maybe due to the A. Reineckii not receiving enough CO2/nutrients due to the large plant mass getting the two factors mentioned before it has a chance to. So in order to fix this problem is just to simply dose more nutrients and provide more CO2/flow.

I don't know if what I just said is a load of rubbish or not so feel free to correct me :p
 
Diogo Reis no wonder you have issues, you are not dosing EI you are dosing some variation for some reason. :confused: Why ?

Just follow the EI dosing ingredients and amount, I suspect you have been misled into not dosing magnesium. Magnesium deficiency symptoms appear very similar to lack iron issues and sometimes CO2 issues, but leaves not so green. Magnesium sulphate is the cheapest EI chemical and has no issues if over dosed.

You need to mix as per http://www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk/fertilisers/dry-chemicals/starter-kits/ei-starter-kit.html. 1 teaspoon is about 6gr. You will need to dose 40ml macro and 40ml micro on alternate days.

Changing light amount does not alter the dose. The EI research was based upon the absolute maximum fertiliser uptake when running at over 5Watts per US gallon. Thus if you dose for 5W/gal there will always be sufficient ferts for the plants regardless of light level. Left over ferts are diluted each week at 50% water change so they don't build up. 50% water change also gets rid of all the organic waste the plants produce as well.

Your tank is 50 US gallons so 100W is 2W/gallon so getting into high light high tech tank territory.

Anyway the chart below from http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=105774 is a rough handy guide to light level.

PARvsDistVariousBulbs2.jpg


If running at high you will have to have "spot on" CO2 levels and distribution if you don't want thing to go wrong.. very quickly...:)
 
Thank you!!
I didnt told that i dont dose magnesium... I dose a lot of magnesium and a lot of calcium...

I dose:
3tsp of caso4
2tsp of mgso4
1/2tps of kno3
1/16 of kh2po4
3x normal dose(1/8) of traces to give more iron.


I had substrate akadama that suck all my calcium and magnesium but now i think that the substrate its full.
 
Soo.. Ppl.. You are saying that if i have a ro water with nothing, if i put the main fertilization:
Macro Solution
33g Potassium Nitrate
7.2g Potassium Phosphate
250ml Water
Trace Mix Solution
10g Chelated Trace Element Mix (TNC Trace, CSM+B)
250 ml Water

Using the daily schedule below add the following 3 times a week:
5ml of Macro solution per 50 litres of water
2.5ml of Trace solution per 50 litres of water

That i have suficients nutrients to the plant grow nice? Even of calcium?
It dont make sence because i should have 4 times more calcium that magnesium and in the start kit have magnesium there but not calcium...
In my tap water i have 1,3mg/l of mg and 1,3mg/l of ca. So if i dose the main doses i will not have suficient calcium. That why i need to add calcium. It makes sense no??
 
Soo.. Ppl.. You are saying that if i have a ro water with nothing, if i put the main fertilization:
Macro Solution
33g Potassium Nitrate
7.2g Potassium Phosphate
250ml Water
Trace Mix Solution
10g Chelated Trace Element Mix (TNC Trace, CSM+B)
250 ml Water
Using the daily schedule below add the following 3 times a week:
5ml of Macro solution per 50 litres of water
2.5ml of Trace solution per 50 litres of water
That i have suficients nutrients to the plant grow nice? Even of calcium?
It dont make sence because i should have 4 times more calcium that magnesium and in the start kit have magnesium there but not calcium...
In my tap water i have 1,3mg/l of mg and 1,3mg/l of ca. So if i dose the main doses i will not have suficient calcium. That why i need to add calcium. It makes sense no??
Once again you have no magnesium, that is part of the EI kit. Magnesium is a plant essential, plants will suffer without magnesium. The EI kit is meant to be mixed with tap water, so most people wont need to add calcium.

If you want to complicate thing using RO, for what ever reason, usually shrimp keeping is a reason for RO, cut it with 50% water or remineralise it before use. Either buy reminerlising or make your own http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/RO.htm
 
Ian_m, i dont want to use ro water... It was just a example.
I use tap water and my tap water have the same mg of ca and mg.
I know that magnesium is important, that why i add 3 tsp of magnesium, ok?
I'm just asking about calcium! You guys dont speak about it. i must continue adding calcium the way to have 4x more than magnesium? Or i dont have to dose calcium? Why?
If i add magnesium and micro and macro i will have no calcium( or if the traces have calcium is just in a small quantity).
I hope you underatant
 
The thing with EI is that you can add more or less as much as you want. There is no set rule because the whole point of it is to give more nutrients than the plants need to ensure there is not shortage in the water. Ian and the others commented a Mg as a possible source of deficiencies and they have their points, if you feel that you need Ca then add that. It really is as simple as just placing whatever you need in.

This is a really good thread regarding fertlizing the aquarium with the EI method http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ei-dosing-using-dry-salts.1211/
 
But ca is a possible source of defici to.
So are you people saying that it is possible to be well adding magnesium, micro and macro(and not ca) even if the tap water have the same of mg and ca?

In this situation i will have:
1,3mg of ca
10mg of mg

Etc..
 
I don't know the conditions of you plants so I can't say anything for definite. I am not good with spotting deficiencies but I follow the duckweed index which has been brought to my attention by Darrel. It involves monitoring floating plants and dosing the aquarium if I see the floating plants struggling. The idea behind this is that floating plants have access to CO2 which means you can rule out that as a limiting factor to its growth. Therefore, what is left is fertilization so I then dose my tank with different dry salts monitoring the change in the growth of the floating plants. This is a thread that is worth looking through regarding the duckweed index http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/low-maintainence-long-term-sustrate.14400/
 
Or i dont have to dose calcium? Why?
No you don't really need to dose calcium unless you are using RO water or your water supply is exceptionally soft. I and many others have never needed to dose calcium, its not normally something you should worry about and sufficient (usually a lot) is obtained through tap water.
 
And i think that my water is like this....can i send to you the analyses of my tap water? how can i put the PDF file here? you can send me you email.

calcium(mg/LCa):
min: 1,34
max: 1,34

Magnésium (mg/l Mg):
min: 1,27
max: 1,30

Ferro (/g/L Fe):
min: 90
max: 90

Boron (mg/L B):
min: < 0,2 (LQ)
max: < 0,2 (LQ)

sulphates (mg/L SO4):
min: 3.7
max: 3.8

chlorides (mg/L Cl):
min: 16.3
max: 16.5

sodium (mg/L Na):
min: 23.3
max: 23.6

etc...
 
You have calcium in you water, like most people do, so you are OK.

You do not need to change anything in EI dosing, that is the beauty of EI dosing, you are dosing "in excess" so the plants never run short for fertiliser. If you have magnesium in your water, great, you are adding more via EI, plants will never run short.

You must ignore your water report, I certainly have ignored mine (ok 23 degrees Clark so F hard) and stop worrying about your water, its fine. Worry about other things like CO2 and distribution, you water and EI are fine.
 
I was adding calcium and magnesium because i have 'akadama' and akadama absorvs fartilizers in the biginning
Doesn't matter, you are dosing in excess, you have calcium in you water, so at the beginning I doubt any being absorbed by you substrate will effect the levels enough for plants to notice.

If you are still worried and need something to worry about, just dose EI x 2, one for the plants and one for the substrate :)

In the article he mentions he "pre doses" some of the akadamia, have you done this ?
 
Hi! No i didnt.. And i started to dose 30ppm of ca and 10ppm of mg because the values were low even i dosed. But now when i dose, the gh go from 3(tap water) to 9, so this is telling me that the substrate is full.
 
If you are using a test kit to measure GH it will be greatly affected by other things in your tank so much so to give a meaningless reading. GH in these test kits is actually measuring alkalinity, so if you have anything producing acids in your tank, like plants the kit will give a meaningless reading.

Ignore test kits, dose EI, 50% water change and watch the plants.
 
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