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'The Full Monty' Has Left The Building last photos

Hi Vinkenoog1977,

I followed your directions and pasted this below. But from what I can see there is only the link, not the actual picture in the post?



Tried something slightly different and got the picture below...

055_zpscaba2522.jpg


And this...

056_zpsee694b0a.jpg


And this...

037_zpsaf0b662c.jpg


Err I think I might have got the hang of it...

035_zps9a1dfc7d.jpg


Spot the Tiger Shrimp any one...

022_zps21d20c4c.jpg


Cooking on gas here...

020_zpsccb69812.jpg


018_zps551ce8c3.jpg


I think this is probably enough for now, don't want to crash the site...

001_zpsfcf5697b.jpg
 
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Hi Red, Nice Scape healthy plants :rolleyes: And now fab photos :)

Yes it took me some time to get my head around it...us folk from oop North especially at my age take a while...

Will wait now for some development...like fish going in next week before i take any more photos...

Might register with Flickr to see if that is any better at uploading the photos...

Cheers,

Steve.
 
I think rummy noses are the best schoolers in my book, cardinals school good too, but they need to be scared of something to stay schooled

Hi Edvet,

I have been doing some research on the Rummy Nose Tetras. Apparently there are three variations of this fish which most LFS call Rummy Nose tetras.

They are:

1. Petitella Georgiae or False Rummy-nose tetra
petitella_georgiae_1-288x192.jpg


2. Hemigrammus Bleheri or Firehead Tetra - passed off as a Rummy Nose Tetra
Hemigrammus-bleheri-288x192.jpg


3. Hemigrammus Rhodostomus or true Rummy-nose tetra
hemigrammus_rhodostomus_1-288x133.jpg

Information found at:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hemigrammus-rhodostomus

The True Rummy Nose Tetra looks the best to me. Now I need to find somewhere that has got the genuine article and not something else...any ideas anyone?
 
Hi Jason,

I am guessing you are thinking about the Ammonia Spike after using all the ADA Amazonia soil and Powder.
Basically, I finished all the hardscape, rock and substrate etc, then filled the tank. I measured the ammonia after a day or two and it was marine blue, completely off the scale!! I left it running for four weeks with no lights on, no Co2 and no fertilisers. A couple of big water changes (one third) for the first two weeks, then left it for two weeks. This was helped by the fact that I went away on Holiday for two weeks, when I got back the ammonia was down to zero.

I then bought all my plants in the fifth week, left it planted for one week, and the added the Amano shrimp. So in all a total of six weeks before adding the shrimp.

So far so good, no losses.

I hope that answers your question?

Cheers,

Steve.
 
Hi Steve,

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that does answer the question. Thanks.

I was asking as I was reading an article that seemed to be suggesting adding shrimp at startup, which to me didn't seem right assuming that the ammonia would just as harmful to shrimp as it would be fish if not more so.

As you may have read I am using J Arthur Bowes Aquatic Soil (I can't really afford another mortgage for ADA soils!) but unlike you I will be adding plants straight away. A few threads and online articles suggest the initial ammonia spike will help feed the plants. There are some that suggest otherwise and I know the guy at The Green Machine is one of them who thinks you should wait for the ammonia spike to pass. But there are a lot who think that this is unecessary.

So I guess I shall see.

Thanks for the answer

Jason
 
I think it will be hard to find "true"rummy noses, most we see in shops are massproduced by breeding (asia usually) and i think most are "false"ones. On the other hand "catching"season has started so wildcoughts can be found/ordered again.
 
Hi Steve,

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that does answer the question. Thanks.

I was asking as I was reading an article that seemed to be suggesting adding shrimp at startup, which to me didn't seem right assuming that the ammonia would just as harmful to shrimp as it would be fish if not more so.

As you may have read I am using J Arthur Bowes Aquatic Soil (I can't really afford another mortgage for ADA soils!) but unlike you I will be adding plants straight away. A few threads and online articles suggest the initial ammonia spike will help feed the plants. There are some that suggest otherwise and I know the guy at The Green Machine is one of them who thinks you should wait for the ammonia spike to pass. But there are a lot who think that this is unecessary.

So I guess I shall see.

Thanks for the answer

Jason

Hi Jason,

You are right, shrimp will not take too kindly to being dumped in a tank full of ammonia.

I have set up tanks in the past where I have put the hardscape in, immediately followed by the plants and the shrimp, but I wasn't using ADA Soils so didn't have to worry about the ammonia spike too much. Some people say that to get the bacteria going quicker in your filter you need some kind of livestock in the tank, that's why they put the shrimp in straight away, but without overloading the tank with fish too soon before the filters have had time to mature.

Some people have even used Black Molly fry to get things going. Filters breed two types of bacteria, Nitrobacter, and Nitrosoma depending on whether the filter is mechanical (with oxygen - aerobic) or biological (without oxygen - anaerobic) One relies on mechanical filtration and the other on biological filtration. The Ammonia is converted to Nitrite, and de-nitrified or converted into Nitrate by the bacteria, which then is utilised by the plants as fertiliser. Therefore it is not the initial ammonia that feeds the plants.

Hope this helps.

Steve.
 
Hi all,

Apparently its all your fault my pictures have temporarily disappeared:lol: So may people have viewed the post, the bandwidth:arghh: from Photobucket has been used up for this month.

According to Photobucket this will reboot back to normal on the first of the month, so back up by Wednesday next week.

Meanwhile I am looking at setting up a Flickr account to see if that is any better. Updates to follow.

Thanks all...

Steve.
 
Hi Edvet,

I have been doing some research on the Rummy Nose Tetras. Apparently there are three variations of this fish which most LFS call Rummy Nose tetras.

They are:

1. Petitella Georgiae or False Rummy-nose tetra
petitella_georgiae_1-288x192.jpg


2. Hemigrammus Bleheri or Firehead Tetra - passed off as a Rummy Nose Tetra
Hemigrammus-bleheri-288x192.jpg


3. Hemigrammus Rhodostomus or true Rummy-nose tetra
hemigrammus_rhodostomus_1-288x133.jpg

Information found at:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hemigrammus-rhodostomus

The True Rummy Nose Tetra looks the best to me. Now I need to find somewhere that has got the genuine article and not something else...any ideas anyone?


Chris at Charterhouse Aquatics in Sowerby Bridge has reserved 25 of these beauties for me, hopefully collecting:) them on Sunday!
 
Chris at Charterhouse Aquatics in Sowerby Bridge has reserved 25 of these beauties for me, hopefully collecting:) them on Sunday!

Do you mean calder valley aquatics?
Its tucked down a side street and is easy to miss. There is a sign showing the turn but it is quite high up.
The fish are very good quality i've never had any problems with fish health from cva and have only seen new arrivals in quarantine
 
Hi all,
Some people say that to get the bacteria going quicker in your filter you need some kind of livestock in the tank, that's why they put the shrimp in straight away, but without overloading the tank with fish too soon before the filters have had time to mature.
Some people have even used Black Molly fry to get things going.
The "sacrificial" fish or shrimp is there to provide ammonia (NH3) via the continual diffusion from its gills, if you already have a source of ammonia (the "Amazonia") you don't need the fish etc.

This is the idea behind "fishless cycling", where you substitute the sacrificial fish for a large slug of ammonium chloride from household cleaner etc. This large initial dose of ammonia means your tank is "cycled" much more quickly.

This has its adherents amongst some people, but I'm definitely not one of them.
Filters breed two types of bacteria, Nitrobacter, and Nitrosoma depending on whether the filter is mechanical (with oxygen - aerobic) or biological (without oxygen - anaerobic) One relies on mechanical filtration and the other on biological filtration. The Ammonia is converted to Nitrite, and de-nitrified or converted into Nitrate by the bacteria, which then is utilised by the plants as fertiliser. Therefore it is not the initial ammonia that feeds the plants.
This isn't quite right, mechanical filtration is just the removal of debris etc from the water column. The finer your mechanical filter is the more it polishes the water.

Biological filtration is the aerobic microbial oxidation of NH3 > NO2 > NO3. You've gone from 3 hydrogens to 3 oxygens, so you've added an acid (acids are H+ ion donors) and you've consumed oxygen. Biological filtration requires a source of carbonates (the bacteria are actually consuming carbon, but using the NH3 as an energy source) and lots of oxygen.

You can potentially anaerobically break down NO3 and outgas inert N2. This is the idea behind deep sand beds and plenums etc. Some filter media claim to support both processes (have a look for the wick test etc on "youtube"). Again having both aerobic and anaerobic processes in your filter is such a bad idea I'm not even going to go there.

Biological filtration is all about oxygen.

Plants take up NH3/NH4+, NO2 and NO3. The original scientific work on the uptake of nitrogen by root hairs actually used Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) as it model plant. Details in this thread: <Plants roots....>.

cheers Darrel
 
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