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Low-tech but Hi-light

L

leemonk

Member
Joined
17 Apr 2009
Messages
132
Hey,

I've been posting on another website for a little while now but am struggling for quick replies as it's based in America and I'm in the UK, also, I've had some conflicting information on the forum (no surprise there really :) ) and I want to get advice from people that understand our water, fish, plants, market etc etc.

Basically, I am on my last attempt at getting a sustainable planted tank for my main tank (only have another nano). However it has to be low maintenance and low-tech as at this stage I have no plans to spend time dosing it or adding CO2 to it. I also don't want to garden it every week.

The other forum has advised me that I have very powerful lights and it might be an issue going to low-tech with hi-lights unless, as one strong poster advised, I plant very heavily and use lots of floating plants.

I have a RIO 180 Jewel with internal filter and an additional fan.

I plan on using 'dirt' and will be choosing the John Innes no.3 capped with a mixture of sand, gravel and horticultural mix (may actually just be the same mix as sand and gravel).

I plan on keeping Guppies (for the algae eating abilities), Tetra's and Blue Rainbows along with an assortment of snails and shrimp (ala Diana Walstad method of self supporting environments).

I am looking for recommendations on what plants I can use and how I should tackle the hi-light issue.

My lights are as follows:

2 x 45w (895mm)
T5-technology High-lite.

and they sit roughly 450mm from the substrate surface.

Any advice/tips are very welcome.

Regards

Lee
 
Hi there, i have been running a lowtech for about six months so im no expert, however the advice you have been given on the other forum sounds very good to me. The one thing in a low tech is to not over cook the lights, perhaps start off with a very low lighting period 2/3 hours.

I think flooding the tank from the set go with lots of plants would help, plus floating plants has really been useful in my tank. I like the Frogbit and it grows and spreads really quickly.

I also have some giant vallis in my tank which sweeps right across my rio 300 helping to reduce the light.

In my tank java/needle leaf fern, crypts and anubias have worked really well. Have recently added a load of willow moss which is going well.

I dont know how to link but there are some good lowtech tips by 'troi' on here that helped me loads

looking forward to seeing your jornal

dave
 
I did something similar using T5 lighting and it worked OK for about 3 months and then various species of algae started to creep in from the edges, so to speak. However, it wasn't unmanageable and plant growth was pretty vigorous during that period. What essentially happens is that the bright light lowers the CO2 compensation point, in simple terms, providing optimum lighting means that the plants do not need so much carbon to flourish, to a point that is. However, IME I don't think it is sustainable in a low-energy tank without the additional work you are trying to avoid, and in my case I switched to T8 lighting and the algae eventually died off; but by the same measure plant growth slowed. I think duration is more important than intensity. At the end of the day I suppose it's all about experimenting to find the energy inputs and outputs that you are happiest with.
 
I personally would try and run less light.
I take it you cant take 1 bulb out? I rewired a fluval hood so I could do this. A bit more extreme (but will cost alot less in the long run) would to be replace the jewel lights with hagen glo unit I did this on a jewel 180 the unit cost around £30 and used generic 39w t5hos which cost less than £3 ea for 6500kelvin bulbs and the install only took 30mins or so.
If none of this is possible remove any reflectors and make everthing else black (if it isnt already) and use floaters and/or tall over arching plants as suggested above.
 
Thanks for the replies....

SAdly I can not turn one bulb off, and I'm not I'd really want to try and re-wire it... unless it was simple..........

I don't want to purchase anything else either.......

If I stick with it and try and flood the top with floating plants will this cause a problem anywhere?

Also, will floating plants suffer beneath a closed lid?

Regards
 
Im wondering what effect it would have if you got a clip on reflector and attached it to the underside of one of the bulbs ? It would deflect rather than REflect and potentially reduce the light ? Just a thought. Probably a daft one, lol.
 
IME floating plants work fine for a while and form a dense mat on the surface. However, most of the nutrients are locked up in the substrate and eventually the water column nutrients will run out and the floaters will start to die off, unless you add ferts to the water column. Adding ferts is not expensive, or much of a hassle, in fact neither is adding bio-available carbon like Flourish Excel;the benefits well out way all other variables, but it depends on what you hope to achieve. If you are not willing to lessen your light intensity, I think that you should at least consider supplementing your substrate with water column dosing.
 
I don't mind dosing and adding excel, so long as this is a once a week thing and it's in small quantities.

What I am trying to avoid is something that needs to be done regularly and strictly, as these are things that I am sadly incapable of.

ALso.... the Walstad method was somewhat appealing. I'm not massively into Aquascaping (probably due to the fact that I can not get plants to live), so a 'little' overgrown garden appeals to me.

I quite like the reflector idea....will investigate this further.......

Regards
 
Liquid carbon needs to be dosed daily or every other day to be effective. You can get away with bi-weekly water changes with no ill effects.
Rewiring the lights is very easy I'll post a how to with a couple of diagrams later when I've got a bit more time to draw some. I also suggest reconsidering changing the lights as those jewel tubes cost £24ea and you are not able to fit standard cheap tubes as no one else makes 45w 895mm t5s they are all 39w, damn expensive if you replace your tubes yearly (which is not required btw) and for less than the cost of 2 tubes you could retrofit a standard twin tube t5 or t8 unit which will allow you to run 1 or 2 tubes as required.
 
Looks like I've got time now ;)
*Disclaimer: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I accept no responsibility for any loss, damage or injury suffered if you follow this and something goes wrong, that's YOUR fault not mine.*
Make sure you unplug and remove the unit from the tank before attempting this.
Fun stuff out of the way on to the task at hand.
Unfortunately I no longer have the hood I did this to so no photos sorry, just rubbish pics done on paint.
Getting into the unit can be a bit of a pain to put it politely but once your in it should look like this.(I havent included the mains supply wires as they are not touched)
Standardwiring.jpg


Then you want to cut the wires at the points shown
StandardwiringCut.jpg


Join the two wires (you may need a bit of extra wire)
Rewired.jpg


Test before refitting to the tank
 
Thanks for the drawing.....

If I only had one tube, would it then be considered a standard level or will it be to low now?

Would a single bulb be considered a better option than using reflectors?

I think the more I discuss it the more I move towards the Walstad method. As much as I love the idea of aquascaping, I think it's like a prized garden..... the idea is great until you understand the work involved.

Regards
 
Personally, I have a walstad style tank which I just get in and clip about once a month. Just to add my 2p, I'd recommend her methods, it's worked nicely for me.
 
leemonk said:
Thanks for the drawing.....

If I only had one tube, would it then be considered a standard level or will it be to low now?

Would a single bulb be considered a better option than using reflectors?

I think the more I discuss it the more I move towards the Walstad method. As much as I love the idea of aquascaping, I think it's like a prized garden..... the idea is great until you understand the work involved.

Regards
Click to expand...

One tube will be plenty, I'm using one 54w t5 over my 120x45x45cm tank. I also have another tank and I'm using 2x3w LEDs over a 60x35x35 and still growing plants.

No problems with using the Walstad method but you dont have to have an unkempt mess you can still scape, things just take longer to grow. I currently switching my 120cm to low tech at the mo I feel a bit cheeky doing 130l+ water changes every week with a hose pipe ban going on, especially as I have no use for the waste water :crazy:
In saying this it seems to be growing better having been ignored for the last 3 weeks than it has in the past :shh:
Both my tanks are scaped (not very well as I'm not much of a scaper) and use John Innes No3 capped with gravel for substrate. It can be done and there are some very good lowtechs in the journals.
 
OllieNZ said:
......... and use John Innes No3 capped with gravel for substrate. It can be done and there are some very good lowtechs in the journals.
Click to expand...


This is what I am going to do. I'm just a little undecided on on a gravel and sand mix and what size gravel to use.

B&G have, what could be, a nice combination of sand, gravel (6mm maybe) and some horticultural gravel (0-6mm).

I know Walstad recommends gravel as it allows for gas to escape, it's just that I have always liked sand.......

Regards

Lee
 
BTW - I really think this section of the forum should be a lot nearer the top. I bet half the questions in this forum are from low(ish) tech users.

Until I started posting on the other forum I didn't realise how different it can all be as lowt-ech.

Regards
 
leemonk said:
OllieNZ said:
......... and use John Innes No3 capped with gravel for substrate. It can be done and there are some very good lowtechs in the journals.
Click to expand...


This is what I am going to do. I'm just a little undecided on on a gravel and sand mix and what size gravel to use.

B&G have, what could be, a nice combination of sand, gravel (6mm maybe) and some horticultural gravel (0-6mm).

I know Walstad recommends gravel as it allows for gas to escape, it's just that I have always liked sand.......

Regards

Lee
Click to expand...

Simple answer.........
Use both :thumbup:
For gravel 2-3mm grain size is ideal. I'm currently using unipac samoa coarse which is pretty much perfect size and easy to find in shops so you can get a size reference even if you dont want to use it.
I've also used argos playsand with good effect aslong as the tank is well planted you dont have any issues with anaerobic areas.
0222.jpg

This is my 60cm just after planting and you can see the seperate gravel and sand areas there is no soil under the sand in this one as the shellies like to bury their shells and that was one mess I didn't fancy tiding.
 
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