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Swamp Creek - 2 years on updated June 2012
- Thread starter tyrophagus
- Start date
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Nelson I have 5 Amano shrimp and some snails. They don't appear to be interested in them.
Nelson I have 5 Amano shrimp and some snails. They don't appear to be interested in them.
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
have a read of this thread and the link in it.the thread is about planaria but in the link it says it killed hydra as well.
http://www.lfkc.co.uk/index.php?topic=496.0
have a read of this thread and the link in it.the thread is about planaria but in the link it says it killed hydra as well.
http://www.lfkc.co.uk/index.php?topic=496.0
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Nelson do you think these need to be killed?
I assumed that when I introduced some fish they would be eaten. I have 24 gold ring danio's on order for Friday and I think they will feast on them.
I have made some changes. As my plants have started to grow better rather than than turn to mush, which I put down to they yellow drop checker I.e. Better co2, I have decided to increase my light intensity. I'll be keeping a close eye on the plants. I have dropped the 2x tmc led lighting tiles down by 10cm which means they are 70cm from the substrate at the deepest point. I have 1 tile set at 40 % output and the other over the more shallow area of the tank set at 35% output. I calculate that this provides 80umols at the deep end based on 130umols being available at 60cm at 100% from the PFK article.
So far so good.
Nelson do you think these need to be killed?
I assumed that when I introduced some fish they would be eaten. I have 24 gold ring danio's on order for Friday and I think they will feast on them.
I have made some changes. As my plants have started to grow better rather than than turn to mush, which I put down to they yellow drop checker I.e. Better co2, I have decided to increase my light intensity. I'll be keeping a close eye on the plants. I have dropped the 2x tmc led lighting tiles down by 10cm which means they are 70cm from the substrate at the deepest point. I have 1 tile set at 40 % output and the other over the more shallow area of the tank set at 35% output. I calculate that this provides 80umols at the deep end based on 130umols being available at 60cm at 100% from the PFK article.
So far so good.
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
hopefully the fish will love them.
love your choice of fish.don't see them that often.
its up to you,your tanktyrophagus said:Nelson do you think these need to be killed?
I assumed that when I introduced some fish they would be eaten. I have 24 gold ring danio's on order for Friday and I think they will feast on them.
hopefully the fish will love them.
love your choice of fish.don't see them that often.
magpie
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
They sound cracking - where have you ordered them from? Can't wait to see how they look in the tank...
I nearly went for your lighting fixture (that is, one like it) but decided I couldn't afford it - also don't have facilities for pendant lighting - but will be fascinated to see how it goes...
lovely tank - gorgeous, gorgeous wood for the hardscape. /woodenvy
m
tyrophagus said:I have 24 gold ring danio's on order for Friday and I think they will feast on them.
They sound cracking - where have you ordered them from? Can't wait to see how they look in the tank...
I nearly went for your lighting fixture (that is, one like it) but decided I couldn't afford it - also don't have facilities for pendant lighting - but will be fascinated to see how it goes...
lovely tank - gorgeous, gorgeous wood for the hardscape. /woodenvy
m
tyrophagus
Member
Graeme Edwards
Founder
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
I would recommend a lid for the 1st night of any fish introduction. If they are going to jump, it will happen the 1st night.
Some fish just jump. Rasboras are the worst IMO. Those and hatchets. You wont have an issue when you get a glass lid for the tank.
I would recommend a lid for the 1st night of any fish introduction. If they are going to jump, it will happen the 1st night.
Some fish just jump. Rasboras are the worst IMO. Those and hatchets. You wont have an issue when you get a glass lid for the tank.
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Thanks Graeme, they arrived today and I'm really pleased with them. I'll keep the tank covered until my lid arrives, should be here soonish. My cats have not ventured near the tank opening when the lids off so I've got used to not covering it. Be interesting to see what the glass lids are like when the arrive.
Thanks Graeme, they arrived today and I'm really pleased with them. I'll keep the tank covered until my lid arrives, should be here soonish. My cats have not ventured near the tank opening when the lids off so I've got used to not covering it. Be interesting to see what the glass lids are like when the arrive.
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
I've been struggling with plant growth and have a separate thread running that I'd like to move over here as this is my journal and will hopeful be a record of the process I'm following.
The thread was here http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11212
The relevant info is that my stems where turning to mush. Clive et al made some excellent suggestions and it basically comes down to finding the right light level (ie not to much), along with an appropriate co2 level for the light level, and appropriate flow.
I'll post regarding my flow soon which I think is adequate to good (not excellent) but my hardscaping creates a dead spot that even a spray bar may struggle with. I am seriously considering a spray bar, however I am not convinced it's my flow that caused the initial problem (I will quite possibly have to test that assumption).
I no longer have stems that turn to mush and I have growth. I have high co2 levels, yellow drop checker, at least 5 - 10 drops per second. Things have definitely improved. I have managed to increase my light levels to provide an estimated 60umols at substrate level. The plants are growing much better since increasing the light and sorting out the co2.
My problems are that I get a film on the surface each day that is a solid that can be removed with a net. This is due to my plants being unhappy about something. I have some leaves on crypts that are old leaves going yellow with green veins and my hydrocotyle has yellowing old leaves which develop holes. All these plants have co2 bubbles flowing past them so flow is unlikely the problem. I have not added any magnesium since setup except that which comes with the tap water. Thames water do not have a magnesium level for my water. It's very hard and I wonder if it's mainly calcium with little Mg. Today I started adding MgSo4 using EI. I'm hoping this is my problem.
I accept that I may still have a flow problem, I'll provide info on this soon.
I hope my light is at the correct level, it's a TMC LED tile x2. It's currently at 60cm from substrate and at 40%.
I'll post picks and flow diagrams next
I've been struggling with plant growth and have a separate thread running that I'd like to move over here as this is my journal and will hopeful be a record of the process I'm following.
The thread was here http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11212
The relevant info is that my stems where turning to mush. Clive et al made some excellent suggestions and it basically comes down to finding the right light level (ie not to much), along with an appropriate co2 level for the light level, and appropriate flow.
I'll post regarding my flow soon which I think is adequate to good (not excellent) but my hardscaping creates a dead spot that even a spray bar may struggle with. I am seriously considering a spray bar, however I am not convinced it's my flow that caused the initial problem (I will quite possibly have to test that assumption).
I no longer have stems that turn to mush and I have growth. I have high co2 levels, yellow drop checker, at least 5 - 10 drops per second. Things have definitely improved. I have managed to increase my light levels to provide an estimated 60umols at substrate level. The plants are growing much better since increasing the light and sorting out the co2.
My problems are that I get a film on the surface each day that is a solid that can be removed with a net. This is due to my plants being unhappy about something. I have some leaves on crypts that are old leaves going yellow with green veins and my hydrocotyle has yellowing old leaves which develop holes. All these plants have co2 bubbles flowing past them so flow is unlikely the problem. I have not added any magnesium since setup except that which comes with the tap water. Thames water do not have a magnesium level for my water. It's very hard and I wonder if it's mainly calcium with little Mg. Today I started adding MgSo4 using EI. I'm hoping this is my problem.
I accept that I may still have a flow problem, I'll provide info on this soon.
I hope my light is at the correct level, it's a TMC LED tile x2. It's currently at 60cm from substrate and at 40%.
I'll post picks and flow diagrams next
Mawgan
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Just catching up with your journal, Tyro, and it makes for interesting reading. Picking up on this quote, and given that you are about to add fish (lovely choice, btw), are you not a little nervous about the CO2 levels...? You were kind enough to post on my journal about drop-checker indications, and I've been rude enough not to reply (forgive me, one bitch of a recent fortnight ), but I've been wringing my hands about this issue and delaying my fish introduction. I've actually turned the CO2 off for a couple of days and stopped dosing EasyCarbo in an attempt to get the thing back to green from yellow.
Pray tell how you have resolved these conflicting demands...
Just catching up with your journal, Tyro, and it makes for interesting reading. Picking up on this quote, and given that you are about to add fish (lovely choice, btw), are you not a little nervous about the CO2 levels...? You were kind enough to post on my journal about drop-checker indications, and I've been rude enough not to reply (forgive me, one bitch of a recent fortnight
), but I've been wringing my hands about this issue and delaying my fish introduction. I've actually turned the CO2 off for a couple of days and stopped dosing EasyCarbo in an attempt to get the thing back to green from yellow. Pray tell how you have resolved these conflicting demands...
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Mawgan I have not had a problem. I was worried when I introduced the fish but despite my drop checker being bright yellow the fish have shown no sign of distress once they settled in. The first 20 mins they spent a bit of time at the surface in between diving deeper into the tank which had me panicking a bit.
10 shrimp, 1 otto and 24 danio's and they seem fine so from my experience I would not be to concerned.
Mawgan I have not had a problem. I was worried when I introduced the fish but despite my drop checker being bright yellow the fish have shown no sign of distress once they settled in. The first 20 mins they spent a bit of time at the surface in between diving deeper into the tank which had me panicking a bit.
10 shrimp, 1 otto and 24 danio's and they seem fine so from my experience I would not be to concerned.
magpie
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Definitely time for a picture....
m
tyrophagus said:
Definitely time for a picture....
m
Mawgan
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
OK. Thanks for that. I admire your confidence in introducing the fish with that drop checker reading
.
OK. Thanks for that. I admire your confidence in introducing the fish with that drop checker reading
.
tyrophagus
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
The Danios are ace! They school really well and look like little brown trout. I even have a 2mm fry that's still alive (see the black dot at the top of the water on the left front, in the meniscus)
Mawgan I lost 2 fish . One is current in pathology having it's innards examined under a microscope because it had a change in colour to its coelomic cavity before it died after a week in the tank. It died alone in a net which i trapped it in that morning. The fish never swam with the crowd, I thought he was just an individual taking things easy, a Johnathan Livingstone Seagull type. But he had pathology and I wish I could be a fly on the wall when they open the post at the path lab and decide which pathologist gets the fish case The other became shrimp food one day 2. I initially thought they were bothered by excess co2 as at night they spent a bit of time at the surface, this did not change though with a green drop checker so I have gone back to yellow. The other 22 and the otto and shrimp all seem fine as well. I'll keep you posted with regards to the fish pathology report.
So some things with the tank are good and some bad. I have growth, my Pogostemon stellatus is growing well, no mushy stems anymore. No algae. All the plants are putting out new growth.
The bad is that I have yellowing of older leaves and some pinholes forming especially in my hydrocotyle and my crypt wendetti green. I am dosing EI as recommended and have recently added MgSO4 as I don't know how much is in the tap water and neither do Thames water. I still get a white surface film that accumulates daily and builds up over the week.
So back to basics. I need the correct level of light, 30ppm co2 and good flow.
30ppm CO2 I have but I think its time for a spray bar to rule out flow issues and I have ordered a PAR meter so I can measure the out put of my LED lights as no one seems to have much experience with them. They are great lights but still have to prove themselves and I have set them at 35% strenght for an 8 hour photoperiod. Personally I think my light levels are to low! It's time to be objective and measure the PAR. The meters a bit pricey at £200 but I don't have any kids except for the 2 dogs, 6 cats and the horse, and now 22 fish. If kids needed to photosynthesise we would all have PAR meters!
I'm really struggling with tank photography. I have an external flash and the tank lights but I just cant get a fast enough shutter speed or decent lighting. How do you all do it? Getting sharp images of fish is a nightmare.
Pogostemon Stellatus and Danio Tinwinii
Danio Tinwinii
Now for a description of my flow as promised, but its a boring read
As far as flow is concerned my lily pipe pumps water at approx 700l/hr down the front of the tank (90cm) from right to left. I can see the CO2 bubbles flow around the tank. The water then moves along the left wall and back from left to right down the back wall. When it gets half way down the back the majority is directed diagonally towards the right corner by the hardscape. Some flow occurs down the length of the back wall. The water exits from the back right corner (I'm not keeping the inflow and outflow in the same corner). I have a vortech mp10 attached to the back wall on the right just below water level. It pumps a broad stream at low output from back to front and creates a circular flow from top to bottom and back to top in the right side of the tank.
So almost all my plants sway in a breeze constantly. I think the hardscape makes flow difficult to acheive in the back right of the tank. Do you really think that flow is an issue in my tank?
iPhone pics - sorry
The Danios are ace! They school really well and look like little brown trout. I even have a 2mm fry that's still alive (see the black dot at the top of the water on the left front, in the meniscus)
Mawgan I lost 2 fish
. One is current in pathology having it's innards examined under a microscope because it had a change in colour to its coelomic cavity before it died after a week in the tank. It died alone in a net which i trapped it in that morning. The fish never swam with the crowd, I thought he was just an individual taking things easy, a Johnathan Livingstone Seagull type. But he had pathology and I wish I could be a fly on the wall when they open the post at the path lab and decide which pathologist gets the fish case The other became shrimp food one day 2. I initially thought they were bothered by excess co2 as at night they spent a bit of time at the surface, this did not change though with a green drop checker so I have gone back to yellow. The other 22 and the otto and shrimp all seem fine as well. I'll keep you posted with regards to the fish pathology report.So some things with the tank are good and some bad. I have growth, my Pogostemon stellatus is growing well, no mushy stems anymore. No algae. All the plants are putting out new growth.
The bad is that I have yellowing of older leaves and some pinholes forming especially in my hydrocotyle and my crypt wendetti green. I am dosing EI as recommended and have recently added MgSO4 as I don't know how much is in the tap water and neither do Thames water. I still get a white surface film that accumulates daily and builds up over the week.
So back to basics. I need the correct level of light, 30ppm co2 and good flow.
30ppm CO2 I have but I think its time for a spray bar to rule out flow issues and I have ordered a PAR meter so I can measure the out put of my LED lights as no one seems to have much experience with them. They are great lights but still have to prove themselves and I have set them at 35% strenght for an 8 hour photoperiod. Personally I think my light levels are to low! It's time to be objective and measure the PAR. The meters a bit pricey at £200 but I don't have any kids except for the 2 dogs, 6 cats and the horse, and now 22 fish. If kids needed to photosynthesise we would all have PAR meters!
I'm really struggling with tank photography. I have an external flash and the tank lights but I just cant get a fast enough shutter speed or decent lighting. How do you all do it? Getting sharp images of fish is a nightmare.
Pogostemon Stellatus and Danio Tinwinii
Danio Tinwinii
Now for a description of my flow as promised, but its a boring read
As far as flow is concerned my lily pipe pumps water at approx 700l/hr down the front of the tank (90cm) from right to left. I can see the CO2 bubbles flow around the tank. The water then moves along the left wall and back from left to right down the back wall. When it gets half way down the back the majority is directed diagonally towards the right corner by the hardscape. Some flow occurs down the length of the back wall. The water exits from the back right corner (I'm not keeping the inflow and outflow in the same corner). I have a vortech mp10 attached to the back wall on the right just below water level. It pumps a broad stream at low output from back to front and creates a circular flow from top to bottom and back to top in the right side of the tank.
So almost all my plants sway in a breeze constantly. I think the hardscape makes flow difficult to acheive in the back right of the tank. Do you really think that flow is an issue in my tank?
iPhone pics - sorry
magpie
Member
Re: Swamp Creek - established 20/04/2010
Wish I could answer your questions re: flow or photography - but haven't the experience... but wanted to say how impressed I am with your tank - and the fish look stunning - good to know they shoal well
thanks for posting.
mx
Wish I could answer your questions re: flow or photography - but haven't the experience... but wanted to say how impressed I am with your tank - and the fish look stunning - good to know they shoal well
thanks for posting.
mx
