I was going to take everything out and start fresh. But have changed my mind. I don't want to mess my cycle up.What exactly you mean by 'complete rescape'?
That's the common mistake.It will have been set up 4 weeks on Tuesday. Already had to replace most of my Anubias as they rotted within first 2 weeks.
I never knew that about plants, as I have read on here to plant heavy from the off set to give My tank the best start.That's the common mistake.
People care for nitrogenous compounds only, and these are not truly harmful to plants, so they plant the tank at once. That's wrong.
Plants do not contribute to cycling (or maturing) the tank. Plants are just as vulnerable as fish to initial "microbial storms". It's up to microbes solely and entirely to build up and settle in a harmonic community serving all necessary functions of the system. Only after that, plants should be introduced. In that way, you can avoid most of the initial loses in plants.
Plants do not contribute to cycling (or maturing) the tank.
If people want to <"cycle their tanks before adding plants"> that is fine, but I'm going to recommend adding plants near the start and then not adding any livestock (other than <"tank janitors">) until the plants are grown in and some form of stability has developed. This is partially so you don't have six weeks of looking at an empty tank.I never knew that about plants, as I have read on here to plant heavy from the off set to give My tank the best start.
You can mitigate for this to some degree by <"using plants that have been grown submerged"> (from another tank or <"obligate aquatic plants">) or by using a floating plant. I always have a floating plant.In that way, you can avoid most of the initial loses in plants.
I totally get the concept of doing the dark start method if you have ammonia rich substrate, and agree it may well have benefits.As a reference, there is an article on the 2hr aquarist site that recommends cycling without plants for a few weeks to avoid plant melt for sensitive plants but also to avoid algae.
This bit I'm struggling with, although I'm always open minded.It's up to microbes solely and entirely to build up and settle in a harmonic community serving all necessary functions of the system.
My fault - my apology. I do what is called 'fishless cycling', if I can understand it correctly. I add some organic matter in the beginning of the above mentioned six to eight week long maturing period. I've also adopted one more measure - I cover the tank carefully to keep it in darkness, and to let bacteria, archaea & fungi develop without cyanobacteria and algae.Maybe I've missed something
Haha yeah now i understand it perfectly.I do what is called 'fishless cycling', if I can understand it correctly. I add some organic matter in the beginning of the above
Quite a few people do similar, calling it a 'dark start'.I cover the tank carefully to keep it in darkness,
That sounds good; some people use ammonia, but I think a range of different organic matter would be better. It might give rise to a more varied population of micro-organisms.Organic matter: milk, flour, dietary powdered Chlorella, Spirulina, sugar, citric acid, ... always experimenting
Yes, ammonia helps initiate nitrifiers. I don't have to be particularly concerned about nitrification since I hardly ever keep any fish. But smooth and fast mineralization of organic matter is of great importance.That sounds good; some people use ammonia, but I think a range of different organic matter would be better. It might give rise to a more varied population of micro-organisms.
I think <"dark start"> is a good idea with an ammonia rich substrate, but that is mainly because I want to lower ammonia levels. The reasoning is in <"Planted aquarium: fishless cycle before planting or cycle with plants?">.I totally get the concept of doing the dark start method if you have ammonia rich substrate, and agree it may well have benefits.
It is down to level really, a small trace helps, but I'm going to get that via the plants and tank janitors I've added and / or a fertiliser containing urea (CO(NH2)2). Ideally I want the level of ammonia during tank establishment to be similar to the levels of ammonia that I'll have <"once the livestock are added">.Yes, ammonia helps initiate nitrifiers.
In that case <"I don't see any problem"> with using a <"fertiliser containing ammonia (NH3)">, I'd just keep the <"levels fairly low">. I'm not that interested (or concerned) about ammonia, as long as you have <"plenty of oxygen">, and a large plant mass, you have a situation where spikes in ammonia level aren't <"likely to be disastrous">.I don't have to be particularly concerned about nitrification since I hardly ever keep any fish.