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CO2 tank size and placement (tight fit and customization options?)

Hufsa

Member
Joined
22 Aug 2019
Messages
2,205
Location
Norway
Im looking at tanks for sale locally, and being as lazy as I am I want to get the biggest tank feasible so I wont have to change it out that often.
If I go for a smaller one that fits inside the cabinet (just below 71 cm clearing), how much additional height will I need to allocate to account for the regulator and the attached whirlygigs?

I can go for a big ol tank in the living room if I want to, which option would you personally pick and why?
If I go for one next to the tank I'll probably get a 10 kg tank, while if I need to fit it into the cabinet the much smaller 6 or 4 kg (68/55 cm tall respectively) would be a couple of options..
 
My tank is a 5kg at 57cm from base to the top of the cage. As you can see in the image below, the whirlygigs aren’t really that much higher but, giving space for the tubing to bend, mine would fit into a 64cm space, so an extra 7cm perhaps. You might be able to push this a bit with a tighter bend but not necessarily recommended. I’m guessing the 68cm option would be pushing it for you.

This was the largest canister I could find that would fit in my cabinet and I’m not a fan of being able to see them as they really aren’t that pretty even when they are new and sparkly. Also, if you’re swapping canisters out, rather than waiting in store for a re-fill, you can’t guarantee the condition of the ‘swap’. Peeling paint and scratches etc is not such a great look. 😊

5kg is lasting me around a month on 700ltrs.
 
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Sorry image didn’t attach. 😊
 
@Hufsa : can you get a "short" CO2 cylinder? I have such "short" cylinders available in 10Kg with a height of ~66cm (including cage), and in ~58cm for the 6Kg cylinder. A regular cylinder would be narrower and taller and might not fit the cabinet.

Some regulators allow for an installation that does not protrude above the cage (see pic below). Maybe this can be an option for you. The issue with the 10Kg cylinders is that they weigh ~30Kg instead of the ~20Kg of the 6Kg version. If it was not for the weight, deciding between 6 and 10Kg would be easy because the price of the cylinder and of the refill is virtually the same.

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Thank you very much for the image @KirstyF, it was very helpful in order to get a sense of scale for the whirlygigs vs the guard cage 😀

I havent seen any of those nifty short cylinders @arcturus, thats a shame they look perfect, if a bit heavy.
If I spot any later on I might swap for them. Maybe the male quotient of the household can be persuaded to move them for me for the refills.

So, the normal 10 kg tanks were sold out, and I decided to go for the 6 kg 68 cm tall tanks, and to put it in the cabinet.
My cabinet is exactly 71 cm inside so this is gonna be a tight fit 🥴🥴 But I really wanted those extra kilos.

I have talked to CO2Art who I have ordered the regulator from (amazing service so far btw 100% recommended).
I can remove their bubble counter without voiding the warranty, and since the bubble counter is the only bit that sticks out above the guard cage, this should make my whole stupid plan plausible in practice.
They also informed me that the needle valve that comes with the regulator must stay on in order to be in warranty, so im planning to do that.


Stupid questions below:

CO2-sensei @Wookii has recommended I get a Camozzi Precision Flow Controller, and ive been thinking about how I can install this.
The obvious option would be to put it inline on the CO2 tubing, but threaded connections should be more secure, right?
Ive drawn up a plan using the connectors also sold by CO2supermarket, are there any obvious reasons why this wouldnt work?
CO2Art informed me they use 1/8 NPT thread size. The connectors sold by CO2Supermarket say 1/8", is this exactly the same then or does it need to specify NPT?
(Maybe the stupidest question: ) How can I know which way the female end of the elbow will point once the male end has been fully screwed in?
I cant imagine you can have it very loose, so you cant leave it half a turn open to ensure it ends up in the direction you want, or can you?

dsggf.png
 
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CO2-sensei @Wookii has recommended
😂 A title too far there I think mate!

CO2Art informed me they use 1/8 NPT thread size. The connectors sold by CO2Supermarket say 1/8", is this exactly the same then or does it need to specify NPT?

NPT is a US thread spec. The Camozzi fittings could well be NPT also, but you would need to check, there are other thread types they could be. You don’t want to be trying to mate the wrong thread as if you cross thread it, that’s the valve ruined.

The obvious option would be to put it inline on the CO2 tubing, but threaded connections should be more secure, right?

Not necessarily. Your relying on good mating of the threads, and to a certain extent proper application of PTFE tape to ensure a good seal. The tubing is attached by compression fittings, so in essence is self sealing. Mine has never leaked. Plus it means you can place the needle valve wherever is convenient - adjustment could be tricky up there at the top of the cabinet.

How can I know which way the female end of the elbow will point once the male end has been fully screwed in?

You can’t really. If it ends up facing the wrong way, you’d have to remove it, and add more PTFE in the hope it locks up slightly earlier and makes a good seal with less rotations.
 
😂 A title too far there I think mate!
😘

The tubing is attached by compression fittings, so in essence is self sealing. Mine has never leaked. Plus it means you can place the needle valve wherever is convenient - adjustment could be tricky up there at the top of the cabinet.

You can’t really. If it ends up facing the wrong way, you’d have to remove it, and add more PTFE in the hope it locks up slightly earlier and makes a good seal with less rotations.
Well that just about settles that then, tubing is better than I thought and threaded is a lot more complicated. Thats good, makes things easier.

Another question, im removing the CO2Art bubble counter with the non return valve, and replacing it with a JBL bubble counter with non return.
Should I add another standalone non return valve, or is the additional protection from a backup valve outweighed by the two more breaks in the tubing line, and the increased leak risk? In my mind risk of leaking CO2 is better than risk of water in the regulator, but I dont want to be the only kid in class with two return valves and have all the others pick on me 😁
 
😘


Well that just about settles that then, tubing is better than I thought and threaded is a lot more complicated. Thats good, makes things easier.

Another question, im removing the CO2Art bubble counter with the non return valve, and replacing it with a JBL bubble counter with non return.
Should I add another standalone non return valve, or is the additional protection from a backup valve outweighed by the two more breaks in the tubing line, and the increased leak risk? In my mind risk of leaking CO2 is better than risk of water in the regulator, but I dont want to be the only kid in class with two return valves and have all the others pick on me 😁

I have two non-return valves (though only one is working now) so its no biggie - the integral non-return on my JBL in-line diffuser actually failed some time back, so I was glad to have the additional one. Just make sure they are the compression type (JBL do one lol) and not the barbed type as you see on CO2 supermarket and other places. The barbed ones probably work fine, but for me personally, on a pressurised gas line, I prefer the extra security of a properly locked down connection.
 
Another thing that has been on my mind, its not directly related to this topic but feels too small to make a seperate thread about.
My CO2 tanks did not come with a plastic wrap or seal around the threaded bit where im supposed to attach the regulator.

I have heard dirt entering the regulator is a fairly common source of malfunction, so I am concerned about attaching mine without cleaning the threaded area on the tank first?

Is it safe to clean it a bit and how would you do it?
I have available pure isopropanol, canned air for computers and various other things.
 
If it’s any help, when I was going through the joy of stripping my regulator, the supplier advised using alcohol to clean it, so I’m guessing that would do it. Can’t really advise on anything else.

At the time, I reviewed my drinks cabinet and was pleasantly surprised at the amount of choice I had available……but don’t think they meant that kind.

There was a little less in the cabinet by the time the bl**dy regulator was back together. 😂
 
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