What water testing equipment do you recommend?

[Wulfen]

Hello all.
When I kept tanks in the past I used to test with well know brand kits. They seemed to vary on readings depending on what brand I used.
Now that I'm coming close to ordering my new system I have been thinking about what I will need to test for.
This time around I would like my tests to be more accurate.
What parameters do I need to test for?
I have seen Digital PH meters on Amazon ranging from £10 to £50.
What other water parameters can be tested using digital meters?
Will I still need liquid testers for certain tests and if so, what do I need?
System:
Evolution Aqua The Aquascaper 900 Tank
Twinstar LED Aquarium Light 900S
Oase biomaster thermo 600 aquarium external-filter
Aquarium CO2 Kit Pro-SE Complete System
Tropica Aquarium Soil
Unipac Kivu Fine Sand
Cheers

 

[Zeus.]

What about Test Kits ?

If injecting CO2 then a drop checker OFC a pH meter is optional but very useful cheap ones OK but better ones better OFC I use a hanna HI-98129 - PH Meter / Tester, 0pH to 14pH, 0.01, 0.05, 0 °C, 60 °C which came highly recomended by Clive and Darrel. But cheap pH pen better than none for doing pH profile

 

[Wulfen]

What about Test Kits ?

If injecting CO2 then a drop checker OFC a pH meter is optional but very useful cheap ones OK but better ones better OFC I use a hanna HI-98129 - PH Meter / Tester, 0pH to 14pH, 0.01, 0.05, 0 °C, 60 °C which came highly recomended by Clive and Darrel. But cheap pH pen better than none for doing pH profile

Many thanks.
Ill have a good read of the article, Is it assuming you are mixing your own ferts?
What are EC and TDS, the other parameters on the ph meter?
Cheers

 

[rebel]

Suggest a tds meter and a pH meter.

I think the cheap ones are ok. Invest in a very good CO2 system and a very easy system for water changing.

 

[Edvet]

Ec: electrronic conductivity
tds: total disolved salts
both are measured through the same meter https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TDS_meter

 

[zozo]

What are EC and TDS

As Edvet says, both are actualy the same the value of Electric Conductivity relates to the number of Total Disolved Solids, both numbers can be converted back and forth.
It depends on your maintenance regime and schedule if it can be usefull to you or not.. You can measure the EC starting value of fresh tank water, adding salts and evaporation and topping off again will increase TDS, this also increases electrical conductivity. Higher EC is more TDS and visa versa.. This number can give you an indication that it is time for a water chance. Handy for low energy setups and saving on water chnages..

But if you do co2 and a weekly water change anyway or no co2 and a weekly waterchange regardles the EC and you follow a strickt fertilisation regime, than this device will not be of much help.. You will measure the same values every week over again, than why should you.. Than the device ends up in the draw never to come out again.

So its a choice to make and to think about before you invest in an EC meter.

 

[ian_m]

Will I still need liquid testers for certain tests and if so, what do I need?

Summarising hobby grade test kits in pictures...

If you insist on having test kits, then ones linked below will give far more dependable, reliable and repeatable readings...Some people have bought these because they hate having unknown knowns.

Ammonia
https://uk.hach.com/test-kit-nitrogen-ammonia-model-ni-sa/product?id=26427820075&callback=pf
Nitrite
https://uk.hach.com/nitrogen-nitrite-colour-disc-test-kit-model-ni-6/product?id=25114237061&callback=pf
Nitrate
https://uk.hach.com/nitrate-test-kit-model-ni-11/product?id=26427780260&callback=pf
Phosphate
https://uk.hach.com/test-kit-phosph...del-po-19a/product?id=25114225337&callback=pf

So now you have accurate water parameters....now what, what are you going to do with the results ?????
Great NO3 is 10ppm, then what ????

This is why the Estimative Index (EI) was "invented", so that there is no need to test the water. If you dose 10ppm NO3, you know NO3 is at least 10ppm, thus plants will not run short of NO3.

As pointed out above pH, read by a pH meter, during CO2 injection is useful to get an estimate of CO2 levels. A drop of 1pH equates to roughly 30ppm.

Also TDS maybe useful to indicate how the tank water is changing.

I have neither pH pen or TDS meter, but have monsterously growing algae free plants along with happy fish, due to careful CO2 & light control and weekly water changes.

 

[Edvet]

Wulfen i see you ask a lot of questions. That's good.
Just a slight warning, buying all the most suitesd stuff will give you a good chance, but it's NO guarantee. Be prepared to learn and adjust. Each tank has it's own quirks. It can go smooth, but also often there is a struggle.

 

[alto]

Nitrate ... ready who cares
I like to know if my tap water contains nitrate - online search or email will elicit that information: note water tests are performed at multiple points through a water delivery system & often daily ... the annual report will include an average value, as well as highs & lows - you can even request each data point
Useful information - if my tank nitrate is 160ppm & my tap is 20ppm, maybe I should feed less or pay more attention to the substrate when doing my water changes ...

Ammonia
Nitrite
- both rather more relevant re toxicity to fish & shrimps

Should you need to medicate, virtually all medications affect the biofilter to some degree, many meds sequester oxygen (which again impacts both biofilter & livestock)
Substrates can release ammonia (& nitrites) - not just ADA Amazonia etc - but any “old” (or not so old) substrate that is disturbed has the potential to release not-so-compatible-with-aquatic-life compounds

When your fish suddenly (or not so suddenly) appear under the weather, it’s reassuring to have a test kit at hand to confirm zero ammonia & nitrites
It’s also useful to check pH - it should not be far off tap (if consistent water changes etc) & can provide information re ammonia toxicity

Seachem test kits are (generally) lower cost than Hach - and much more available , tech support is excellent, kits decent & often include reference standards

Starting out it’s comforting to have some test kits at hand, if you buy fish & they die unexpectedly, the first request from most shops, will be about water parameters

I’m what EI has to do with test kits

I have erratic CO2 & light control & minimal algae (an algae “free” zone is an oxymoron, rather like the ) ...if I actually remember to turn the lights & CO2 ON - daily! - grow is rather surprising

Watch a Filipe Oliveira workshop video (eg Aquarium Gardens) - he’s a joy - no “do it this way”
Rather this is how I like to do this, & there are many ways ...

 

[Zeus.]

I have two EC/TDS meters and dont bother using them just stick to weekly WC and accept the values what ever they happen to be. The Hanna pH pen does TDS up to 2000ppm just have to change the mode to read it. The more expensive Hanna prode does the TDS above 2000ppm but nearly double the price.
Hanna probe does temp also which is handy

 

[Wulfen]

Wulfen i see you ask a lot of questions. That's good.
Just a slight warning, buying all the most suitesd stuff will give you a good chance, but it's NO guarantee. Be prepared to learn and adjust. Each tank has it's own quirks. It can go smooth, but also often there is a struggle.

Cheers Edvet. I do ask a lot of questions in an effort to learn as much as I possibly can "Before" I even get the tank.
I have kept tanks (not planted) years ago and don't want to repeat any mistakes I may have made at that time through stagnant memories, but replace those memories with current thinking from my peers.
I am under no illusion that this learning process is just beginning and will involve a lot of research and work. But saying that, a joy such as the planted tank is well worth it

 

[Wulfen]

Summarising hobby grade test kits in pictures...
View attachment 116799

If you insist on having test kits, then ones linked below will give far more dependable, reliable and repeatable readings...Some people have bought these because they hate having unknown knowns.

Ammonia
https://uk.hach.com/test-kit-nitrogen-ammonia-model-ni-sa/product?id=26427820075&callback=pf
Nitrite
https://uk.hach.com/nitrogen-nitrite-colour-disc-test-kit-model-ni-6/product?id=25114237061&callback=pf
Nitrate
https://uk.hach.com/nitrate-test-kit-model-ni-11/product?id=26427780260&callback=pf
Phosphate
https://uk.hach.com/test-kit-phosph...del-po-19a/product?id=25114225337&callback=pf

So now you have accurate water parameters....now what, what are you going to do with the results ?????
Great NO3 is 10ppm, then what ????

This is why the Estimative Index (EI) was "invented", so that there is no need to test the water. If you dose 10ppm NO3, you know NO3 is at least 10ppm, thus plants will not run short of NO3.

As pointed out above pH, read by a pH meter, during CO2 injection is useful to get an estimate of CO2 levels. A drop of 1pH equates to roughly 30ppm.

Also TDS maybe useful to indicate how the tank water is changing.

I have neither pH pen or TDS meter, but have monsterously growing algae free plants along with happy fish, due to careful CO2 & light control and weekly water changes.

Cheers Ian. I would rather test with digital meters all the things I need to be testing. To tell you the truth I am still getting my head around all the information I am trying to absorb
Is this the EI product I have hered metion so much? http://www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk/fertilisers/dry-chemicals/starter-kits/ei-starter-kit.html

 

[Wulfen]

Nitrate ... ready who cares
I like to know if my tap water contains nitrate - online search or email will elicit that information: note water tests are performed at multiple points through a water delivery system & often daily ... the annual report will include an average value, as well as highs & lows - you can even request each data point
Useful information - if my tank nitrate is 160ppm & my tap is 20ppm, maybe I should feed less or pay more attention to the substrate when doing my water changes ...

Ammonia
Nitrite
- both rather more relevant re toxicity to fish & shrimps

Should you need to medicate, virtually all medications affect the biofilter to some degree, many meds sequester oxygen (which again impacts both biofilter & livestock)
Substrates can release ammonia (& nitrites) - not just ADA Amazonia etc - but any “old” (or not so old) substrate that is disturbed has the potential to release not-so-compatible-with-aquatic-life compounds

When your fish suddenly (or not so suddenly) appear under the weather, it’s reassuring to have a test kit at hand to confirm zero ammonia & nitrites
It’s also useful to check pH - it should not be far off tap (if consistent water changes etc) & can provide information re ammonia toxicity

Seachem test kits are (generally) lower cost than Hach - and much more available , tech support is excellent, kits decent & often include reference standards

Starting out it’s comforting to have some test kits at hand, if you buy fish & they die unexpectedly, the first request from most shops, will be about water parameters

I’m what EI has to do with test kits

I have erratic CO2 & light control & minimal algae (an algae “free” zone is an oxymoron, rather like the ) ...if I actually remember to turn the lights & CO2 ON - daily! - grow is rather surprising

Watch a Filipe Oliveira workshop video (eg Aquarium Gardens) - he’s a joy - no “do it this way”
Rather this is how I like to do this, & there are many ways ...

Many thanks Alto. This is where im getting confused. Fish/inverts produce waste. This waste breaks down into Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia. Of which Ammonia and Nitrite are dangerous to fish?
If I go with this EI method which I think I will and large water changes (to minimize the buildup of Ammonia and Nitrite?) Should I really still ignore these two readings from then on?
What if something unknown to me is producing a lot of Nitrite and ammonia?

 

[Wulfen]

I have two EC/TDS meters and dont bother using them just stick to weekly WC and accept the values what ever they happen to be. The Hanna pH pen does TDS up to 2000ppm just have to change the mode to read it. The more expensive Hanna prode does the TDS above 2000ppm but nearly double the price.
Hanna probe does temp also which is handy

So just the PH meter would be the way to go?
What about hardness? I have heard that mentioned a few times, can this be measured with a digital meter?

 

[Wulfen]

A bit belated but may help if I paste the details of my upcoming system:
Evolution Aqua The Aquascaper 900 tank
Twinstar LED Aquarium Light 900S
Oase biomaster thermo 600 aquarium external-filter
Aquarium CO2 Kit Pro-SE Complete System
Tropica Aquarium Soil
Unipac Kivu Fine Sand

 

[ian_m]

The fish waste (and dead fish) releases ammonia into the water. This is toxic to fish, but can be used by plants (and more worryingly by algae) as well as converted to nitrite by bacteria in filter/substrate. Nitrite is toxic to fish.

The nitrite gets converted to nitrate by bacteria. Nitrate is not really toxic, until you get to 1000's ppm. Nitrate is prime fertiliser for plants.

Normally in a balanced mature tank any ammonia is quickly converted to harmless nitrate and you will not really see measurable ammonia and nitrite levels.

Thus if your tank is low light, rotting food and fish poo will provide plenty enough nitrate (and carbon) for you plants.

 

[Edvet]

hardness is "german hardness"another scale for the amount of dissolved salts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water

 

[alto]

Nitrate is not really toxic, until you get to 1000's ppm.

If you can keep Sphaerichthys species alive & healthy in even 100ppm nitrate I want to see that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not to mention Xenotilapia sp. "Papilio” variants

 

[Onoma1]

Could I check that I have understood this correctly? The most accurate way of measuring Ph would be to use the Hanna pH Probe HI-98129. Given this comes in at 89 pounds or more is there a cheaper (but still accurate) alternative that you use or would recommend?

 

[Wulfen]

Could I check that I have understood this correctly? The most accurate way of measuring Ph would be to use the Hanna pH Probe HI-98129. Given this comes in at 89 pounds or more is there a cheaper (but still accurate) alternative that you use or would recommend?

Hi Onoma.
I personally am still trying to get my head around the "to test or not to test" method.
You may find this video interesting in terms of other methods to test PH though he does not use a digital probe.