tyrophagus
Member
I have a 10 day old 180l tank. I bought pre-cycled filter media from LFS and the substrate is ADA amazonia granules with power sand special. I have excellent flow (eheim 2076 + vortech mp10) and am using CO2 at about 10 bubbles/sec which keeps my drop checker at a green to light yellow colour. My lighting is TMC 1000nd lighting tiles x 2 at 45% output for 4 hours per day and ramping up and down for 2 hours before and after max output period.
I initially had green water but that has since resolved. I have done at least 50% every other day water changes and when I can manage to I have done daily water changes. My intial NH4 levels were sky high >10 but have since dropped to 0.5 (today).
I add 10 squirts of ADA Brighty K per day + 10mls Easycarbo.
My Crypts are doing well, very few leaves have melted. The Marselia has put up many leaves and there are evidence of some runners. The Pogostemon stellata and Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata ''Cuba'' seem to be growing slowly but some of their stems look a bit yellow and glassy.
I pruned back the Hemianthus micranthemoides to try make it spread into a compact growth but found that days afterwards the remaining stems and leaves seemed to die and fade, I have lost 60% of the plant. The Heteranthera zosterifolia I planted purely to add to the biomass during startup has had areas along the stems turn glassy, then melt away. The same happened to my Rotala sp "green" which after I trimmed it mid stem and replanted the stems leaving the cut portion in situ, basically turned to mush.
So today given my ammonia levels are lower (0.5) I have increased the light intensity to 52% (from 45%).
I have been wondering if the nutrient levels may be wrong for the stem plants as those rooted in the substrate seem fine.
My local water company can only provide the following parameters for my tap water.
ph 7.2
conductivity 600 us
sulphate 25
nitrate 41
nitrite 0
TH (cac03) 348
Should I switch to the EI method (I am using Brighty K and Easycarbo based on some excellent help and advice from TGM where I bought my tank) to see if I have a nutrient deficiency. It appears to me that my tap water has plenty of nitrates. Does that matter if I start adding more??
I could buy some cheap plants to increase the planting level.
So the plan if I use EI from what I can understand from Clives article is:
EI for 40 gallons (160l)
Sunday – 50% or more Water Change then dose [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Monday – 1/8 teaspoon CSM+B
Tuesday - [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Wednesday - 1/8 teaspoon CSM+B
Thursday - [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Friday – Rest
Saturday - Rest
However I would like to do 50% water changes every 2 days for the next 2 weeks at least as I'm worried that the presence of even low levels of ammonia will cause algae (although keeping the light levels low will help). Can anyone suggest alterations to the dosages to reflect what is needed with that many water changes and a tank that has not got that many growing plants in yet.
I was thinking of just doing a 50% water change before dosing the macros and keeping the dosage the same. I'd also continue the Easycarbo daily.
thanks
Graeme
this photo is today taken with a camera phone so excuse the quality

I initially had green water but that has since resolved. I have done at least 50% every other day water changes and when I can manage to I have done daily water changes. My intial NH4 levels were sky high >10 but have since dropped to 0.5 (today).
I add 10 squirts of ADA Brighty K per day + 10mls Easycarbo.
My Crypts are doing well, very few leaves have melted. The Marselia has put up many leaves and there are evidence of some runners. The Pogostemon stellata and Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata ''Cuba'' seem to be growing slowly but some of their stems look a bit yellow and glassy.
I pruned back the Hemianthus micranthemoides to try make it spread into a compact growth but found that days afterwards the remaining stems and leaves seemed to die and fade, I have lost 60% of the plant. The Heteranthera zosterifolia I planted purely to add to the biomass during startup has had areas along the stems turn glassy, then melt away. The same happened to my Rotala sp "green" which after I trimmed it mid stem and replanted the stems leaving the cut portion in situ, basically turned to mush.
So today given my ammonia levels are lower (0.5) I have increased the light intensity to 52% (from 45%).
I have been wondering if the nutrient levels may be wrong for the stem plants as those rooted in the substrate seem fine.
My local water company can only provide the following parameters for my tap water.
ph 7.2
conductivity 600 us
sulphate 25
nitrate 41
nitrite 0
TH (cac03) 348
Should I switch to the EI method (I am using Brighty K and Easycarbo based on some excellent help and advice from TGM where I bought my tank) to see if I have a nutrient deficiency. It appears to me that my tap water has plenty of nitrates. Does that matter if I start adding more??
I could buy some cheap plants to increase the planting level.
So the plan if I use EI from what I can understand from Clives article is:
EI for 40 gallons (160l)
Sunday – 50% or more Water Change then dose [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Monday – 1/8 teaspoon CSM+B
Tuesday - [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Wednesday - 1/8 teaspoon CSM+B
Thursday - [3/8 teaspoon KNO3] + [1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4]
Friday – Rest
Saturday - Rest
However I would like to do 50% water changes every 2 days for the next 2 weeks at least as I'm worried that the presence of even low levels of ammonia will cause algae (although keeping the light levels low will help). Can anyone suggest alterations to the dosages to reflect what is needed with that many water changes and a tank that has not got that many growing plants in yet.
I was thinking of just doing a 50% water change before dosing the macros and keeping the dosage the same. I'd also continue the Easycarbo daily.
thanks
Graeme
this photo is today taken with a camera phone so excuse the quality
