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Arcadia T8 LED?
- Thread starter Dr Gibbon
- Start date
They are brighter than a T8, but not so sure for a T8 with reflector.
Also they come in Juwel T8 lengths, BUT can't be used with Juwel lighting units as they use electronic ballast.
I suspect they give the same output into the tank as T8 tubes so you can just replace your T8 tubes. However unlike T8, you can't add reflectors to increase light or rotate the reflectors to lower light levels.
In the end when I was looking to replace my T8 unit, spent ages looking at LED replacements, but most LED's actually produced considerable less light than a T8 tube but more focussed, so might have been better as all the light is directed down. In the end I just went for a replacement T5 unit, expensive I know, but a known quantity of light, clearly making my tank, no questions asked, a "high light" tank, thus I can maintain it accordingly.
Also they come in Juwel T8 lengths, BUT can't be used with Juwel lighting units as they use electronic ballast.
I suspect they give the same output into the tank as T8 tubes so you can just replace your T8 tubes. However unlike T8, you can't add reflectors to increase light or rotate the reflectors to lower light levels.
In the end when I was looking to replace my T8 unit, spent ages looking at LED replacements, but most LED's actually produced considerable less light than a T8 tube but more focussed, so might have been better as all the light is directed down. In the end I just went for a replacement T5 unit, expensive I know, but a known quantity of light, clearly making my tank, no questions asked, a "high light" tank, thus I can maintain it accordingly.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Yeah I was looking at the graph Clive posted from another site which showed the difference in par values at gravel level for the various lighting arrangements and I was astonished at the difference in PAR between T8 and T5 tubes.
PAR Graph by AWB70, on Flickr
As you can see on there, three T8 tubes produce approx 20 PAR each so that's 60 PAR or medium lighting. One T5 would put me in the high lighting bracket!
Also shows I think, how the old WPG rule no longer applies and should only really be used on T8 lighting and nothing else. I have 70watts over 35 galls of T8 or 2wpg (again medium lighting) but if I put a 34" 39 watt T5 in there that would only give me 1wpg giving the impression of low lighting however going off the graph that's about 120par at 15"
However, as always with lighting there's probably a lot more to take into account
As you can see on there, three T8 tubes produce approx 20 PAR each so that's 60 PAR or medium lighting. One T5 would put me in the high lighting bracket!
Also shows I think, how the old WPG rule no longer applies and should only really be used on T8 lighting and nothing else. I have 70watts over 35 galls of T8 or 2wpg (again medium lighting) but if I put a 34" 39 watt T5 in there that would only give me 1wpg giving the impression of low lighting however going off the graph that's about 120par at 15"
However, as always with lighting there's probably a lot more to take into account
Results of my upgrade T8 to T5.
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/t8-to-t5-advice.34489/#post-368374
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/t8-to-t5-advice.34489/#post-368374
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
I'm looking to upgrade to T5 as well. I have a spare hood so it's just a case of ripping the guts out of it and somehow getting the fixture in. Not sure whether or not to twin or single with reflector.
Fit twin, you can always run with just one and fit or not fit reflectors depending how high tech you want your tank. The Juwel reflectors are in fact plastic mouldings that can be trimmed to any length and have lengths of reflective mylar plastic inserted into.
http://www.juwel-aquarium.de/en/Pro.../HiFlex-438-mm-T5-24W-T8-15W-Refl-438-mm.html
My mate upped the brightness of his old T8 lit tank by buying a Juwel reflector longer than his T8 tube, cut to length of his tube, inserted the mylar film, cut to length and attached to his T8 tube using the Juwel T8 clips. Done no electrics involved.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Cheers, I think adding reflectors would probably be the best option. Trying not to spend any more money on this setup as I fear its days are numbered. As you can see in my other post, I'm in a position of either dealing with the lower light or upgrading the lighting. The PAR graph was a real eye opener.
The new Juwel reflectors ones are quite clever compared to the original polished metal sheet ones.
When they get scaled up, mine do as I have very hard water, you just slip the reflective plastic foil out and either use the other side or take it to kitchen dunk in vinegar to descale, wash and return to tank. All very easy. Or just buy replacement foil if very lazy.
When they get scaled up, mine do as I have very hard water, you just slip the reflective plastic foil out and either use the other side or take it to kitchen dunk in vinegar to descale, wash and return to tank. All very easy. Or just buy replacement foil if very lazy.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Cool, I'll take a look at seeing if I can get some in the hood of my Aqua-one AR850
John S
Member
I'm interested in this too AWB. Been looking for a while to replace the lights in my AR850. I don't mind removing the guts of the hood but don't want to butcher it like others have done. I like the idea of dimable LED's for control but I'm not keen on the shimmer.
Sorry to Dr Gibbon for taking this off track.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
I'm in a fortunate position of having three hoods for mine, my original, a new one I bought which was faulty which the supplier replaced for free and let me keep the faulty one and a new one. In the case of going to T5 I would say it would require a fair bit of work. The light switches and controller would have to be outside of the hood but I think it's possible.
The reflectors Ian M mentioned would probably be the way to go for least hassle and cost. As it happens believe it or not I came across these in my box of tricks I keep in a cupboard.
Only problem being they are only 15" and Aqua tubes are 30" I suppose adding them won't do any harm, the question is put them both on one tube or one in the middle of each of the two larger tubes putting more light in the centre of the tank?
Apologies from me also although I think we're all in the same thread of upgrading existing lighting so still roughly on topic
Same mate as fitted Juwel reflectors, on his other tank changed the failing T8 tube and ballast to a T5 unit from Arcadia. The T5 electronic ballast comes with lamp holders and clips. Drilled a couple of holes in lamp hood to attach the lamp holder clips. The lamp leads are quite long so was able to locate the ballast in his cabinet.
Main issue is he just turned light on as per original T8 (and timer failure I think) and turned tank into algae in a very short period of time. All sorted now, light on couple of hours, T5 behind slightly darkened tank cover, 1/4 EI dosing as fertz or when ever , water changing when ever, plants grow slowly and tank is algae free. Nice low tech easy to look after.
Main issue is he just turned light on as per original T8 (and timer failure I think) and turned tank into algae in a very short period of time. All sorted now, light on couple of hours, T5 behind slightly darkened tank cover, 1/4 EI dosing as fertz or when ever , water changing when ever, plants grow slowly and tank is algae free. Nice low tech easy to look after.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
I have a low tech shrimp tank. It is a pleasure to work with.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
FYI Steve adding reflectors isn't an option on the AR so I wouldn't rush out and buy any. They're are too big and the tubes are too close together so they would overlap the other tubes. You could cut them down but by the time you trimmed them small enough to fit it would render them useless.
The t5 option would probably be best but once done I suspect there's no going back by the time you've stripped out the existing to make room although it's possible to do it and leave it in tact.
Once you buy the starter and tubes though you could be in the price range of a sit on rim fitting, depends whether you want to go open top I guess.
Me personally I don't want to throw any money at mine. If I could have had a cheap upgrade I would be interested but I'm saving up for another tank and cabinet. My man cave is getting turned into a dining room and my tank is moving into the lounge but it's the wrong veneer. I'm fancying the TMC in white.
The t5 option would probably be best but once done I suspect there's no going back by the time you've stripped out the existing to make room although it's possible to do it and leave it in tact.
Once you buy the starter and tubes though you could be in the price range of a sit on rim fitting, depends whether you want to go open top I guess.
Me personally I don't want to throw any money at mine. If I could have had a cheap upgrade I would be interested but I'm saving up for another tank and cabinet. My man cave is getting turned into a dining room and my tank is moving into the lounge but it's the wrong veneer. I'm fancying the TMC in white.
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Except no good if using CO2 as the overflow will outgas the CO2, giving a false reading on pH pen as well as making you consume massive amounts of CO2. This is why canister filters are generally better, no where for the gas to escape.
Though on saying that many people get on fine with CO2 and outflows and 45Kg CO2 cylinders....
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Yeah I ditched mine about three years ago and switched to canister. I found all you said to my peril! I kept the existing filter system which comes in very handy if you have problems with the canister like I did recently when I snapped one of the taps and couldn't get hold of a replacement for three days. You can unload your medium into the spray bar boxes at the top and carry on running which prevents the good bacteria dying and just reach for the easy carbo
Other than that it's a good tank and cabinet, Once converted to canisters the top becomes a handy storage place for your bits and bob and as pictured a constant ph monitor. I switch my pen on about half an hour before the gas comes on and watch my profile for the day. Better than standing with it in your hand for 15 minutes.
Gas no, Liquid carbon is fine.
Other than that it's a good tank and cabinet, Once converted to canisters the top becomes a handy storage place for your bits and bob and as pictured a constant ph monitor. I switch my pen on about half an hour before the gas comes on and watch my profile for the day. Better than standing with it in your hand for 15 minutes.
Gas no, Liquid carbon is fine.
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So are you running it on CO2 or liquid carbon ?
AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Currently Co2. Back in the day I got away with the trickle filter and liquid C. I then progressed on to co2 which as you say just totally de-gassed and I switched to a canister.
For a low maintenance set up and using LC it's a great setup. I've probably had mine about 7 years with no signs of bubbling on the veneer or anything. The light hood had a few cracks so I replaced that with a new one. I was going to go open top at that stage but the missus wouldn't have it. I used to run a 125watt mercury vapour pendant back in the day and she would complain about it fading wall paper and paint. When it was knocked off during daylight hours you could see a ghostly impression of the light on the wall.
For a low maintenance set up and using LC it's a great setup. I've probably had mine about 7 years with no signs of bubbling on the veneer or anything. The light hood had a few cracks so I replaced that with a new one. I was going to go open top at that stage but the missus wouldn't have it. I used to run a 125watt mercury vapour pendant back in the day and she would complain about it fading wall paper and paint. When it was knocked off during daylight hours you could see a ghostly impression of the light on the wall.