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Anyway, just noticed this article has over 200,000 views, coinciding with the UKAPS landmark of reaching 20,000 members. Who ever would have thought. . . 🙂

That doesn’t appear to make immediate sense. But roots will eventually reach though the gravel filled bags and find the soil. However, wouldn’t it be better to layer the soil over the media bags and then cap? The plants then have almost immediate access to substrate nutrients. I’ve done it this...

Yes, pond soil, it’s what I bought too 🙂

@pollyandpear I bought some from there a while back. Assuming it’s the same brand it worked well.

There is more than one path to success. Whatever works best for you 😉

I don’t really have any definitive answers for you. I tend to stick with what I know regarding soil mixes. Like I mentioned, I use 1:1 aquatic compost and peat moss, with added grit. But the fact your plants seem to be responding well to a change in conditions probably gives you some...

That they did, especially the old pink growlux type bulbs.

The good old days @bazz. T8s suited low-energy well. When I first started it was T12 lights with large ballasts.

There's been some discussion about UG filters causing poor plant growth; it's not been my experience. https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/undergravel-filter.72718/#post-731847

I've used similar on its own. But that was way back when folk were first experimenting with alternatives to ordinary pea gravel. It grew plants well, it has a high CEC, but then I occasionally supplemented it with dads tomato fertiliser. Sure it can be mixed with AS if that's what you want to...

Good question. I guess several reasons why. Many are probably historical. For a start it's massively counterintuitive to place soil in a fish tank especially when folk spend so much time vacuuming to remove mulm. Also, it probably never occurred to the same folk (and probably still doesn't)...

@colley614@ Irish moss peat is fine. I still have a big bag from years ago when peat was still deemed okay to use in horticulture. Any horticultural grit or fine gravel will do. A good mix is 1:1 peat and aquatic compost. Just add several handfuls of grit till the structure feels a little more...

@colley614@ Soil has many advantages, but it’s not worth rigidly sticking to any one methodology if it’s not working. All tanks are different and often require different approaches to grow healthy plants. Hence the hybrid method. Soil can loose its structure and become compacted when used as...

@colley614@ I’ve had several scapes that started out as Walstad type tanks with filtration. Back in the day they stayed that way without fertz dosing. More recently though, I’ve usually started to dose fertz at around 6 months. Either way, they all remained soil substrate, and low-energy, no...

Absolutely right. Ultimately it's microbial communities that keep our planted tanks healthy and stable.

Or you could use plain play sand. It’s dirt cheap and a perfectly good planting medium. However, it’s inert so you’ll also have to water column dose fertz, and/or use root tabs. But dosing fertz is recommended anyway. Sand will inevitably gain some additional fertility over time as mulm...

Yes, aquatic compost, the type typically used in ponds is fine. Yes, you can use John Innes type compost. Or you can use something like Tropica AS an all in one solution. If you use compost you’ll need to cap it with sand or gravel, otherwise you’ll end up with a muddy puddle...

Thank you very much for taking the time to do this @_Maq_ It's very well written, and you've taken on a difficult and complex topic and made it more accessible.

It can take a while to cycle fully. But mine usually take a week or two before they are cycled enough to safely and slowly introduce critters. The full info is there in the article.

Seems fairly innocuous, you just need a little to add structure so should work quite well.

I've never used it, so I hesitate to suggest it. However, it should be okay. You can get peat free compost composed of coir. You just need to be aware of what else it contains that may effect water quality.

Aquatic soil is best mixed with extra organic matter, like moss peat, it improves the structure. It tends to be loam based and can become cloddy after mineralisation. You can add a little extra grit instead of, or as well as it you like.

You could try EI, or a derivative of it There's no hard and fast rules. https://barrreport.com/threads/non-co2-methods.422/ However, there will be a lot of nutrients in the substrate so you might also want to consider lean dosing as an alternative...

There is this as well Thread 'Is there a peat free aqua soil?' Is there a peat free aqua soil?

Just pea gravel in filter media bags.

There are pretty much step by step instructions in the tutorial at the beginning of this thread ;)

Soil is still good and there's no problem using it with CO2 either. AS is just more convenient for aquascaping ;)

I haven't used the compost you've linked so can't say one way or the other. My gut feeling is that you should perhaps save it for the garden and use aquatic compost and peat. Filter bags should work out okay, but either way you only really need a cm or two of soil in the bottom of the tank.

I don't think the Dutch nor the Japanese have ever claimed to have invented aquascaping. For instance, I was just one of many folk who started aquascaping back in the late 70s early 80s, using rocks from local quarries and bog wood which was sold in pet stores. Admittedly, the number of plant...

I guess for some folk it's possible it gives them more wriggle room but do you reckon it's really played that much of a significant role in the hobby, especially when hydrogen peroxide essentially does the same thing? And if so when do you think it's influence began to become important ? I've...

That's an interesting observation. Do you mean in terms of algae control or growing plants? It'd be good to get a better understanding of how LC fits in with the whole aquascaping story.

Just noticed that this tutorial has had 100,000 hits since it was posted. That signifies quite a milestone. Thanks to all those who have read, posted, and contributed. It's all helped make for a much better tutorial :)

Thanks Ady :)

Well, if diorama didn't evolve directly from Nature Aquarium it has certainly influenced the direction of the NA aesthetic over the last few years. It's easy to categorise the more extreme diorama examples, but I often see hybrid type scapes, or NA scapes that have some diorama aspects, my own...

There are a lot of talented scapers out there. However, I must admit I'm not feeling it, nearly all the entries are diorama :meh: What I'd give to see more decent Nature Aquarium scapes... I like Nuno's scape...

That really depends on your plant biomass, how densely you plant, and whether you're going to use LC, and the photoperiod and light intensity. All things being even, the general rule is 1/5 - 1/10 EI. For instance, my 60l high energy gets around 30mls a week, any less and I get deficiencies. So...

I think @Sarpijk is right, you may as well use 1:1 mix of moss peat and Westlands aquatic compost. Try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gardman-Greenhouse-Shading-Material-1-2m/dp/B00AV6UQW0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=green+house+shading+gardmans&qid=1565549090&s=gateway&sr=8-1. It's what I use. Looks...

I think some examples of diorama are grown emersed for competitions and then flooded just before the photoshoot, and then torn down immediately afterwards. There's no attempt at longevity nor making them in to a functioning system of sorts, mainly because it's not particularly practical nor...

Thanks to the contributions of Marcel @zozo, and @Aquahorti I've been able to update the section on CO2 fertilisation :) And I've also added a few lines on Diana Walstad ;)

I think less than 1%.

I came across this as well. Even though I suspect the area has a karst geomorphology, I think it perhaps illustrates that if a river basin or catchment is managed appropriately even floodwater will remain clear. And that conversely human activity perhaps contributes significantly to water...

Thanks for posting that Darrel. I remember as a kid canoeing down a long stretch of the Grantham canal and being absolutely amazed at how clear the water was and marvelling at the diverse flora. It just goes to show that not all the examples are exotic and that given half a chance there would be...

Not always, believe it or not natural eutrophication is a thing as well, particularly in lakes. A picture is worth a thousand words...;) Here's two more of the Bonito Brazil, and many more can be viewed on Google...

I think the contention amongst many aquascapers is that diorama in particular is an imitation of a terrestrial landscape, and often a man made one at that. Whereas, the original Nature Aquarium concept aims to mimic nature more closely. The original concept is explained in more detail in the...

Thank you for taking the time to read my article, and also for sharing your opinion. I was referring to the differences between Takashi Amano's original Nature Aquarium concept and the diorama style which evolved from it. And in particular how diorama style has come to be viewed by many...

Thanks Marcel :)

Thanks for the suggestions @Aquahorti. Sounds interesting and if you can post a link I'd love to read it, but that part of the article is really about the development of the home aquarium and I'm guessing those tanks weren't glass fronted. That's well documented, and semantics aside I believe...

Thanks George :)

I'm not familiar with that product, but if it's basically compost then yes you'll need to cap it otherwise it'll be easily disturbed and you could end up looking at muddy puddle rather than a beautifully planted aquarium.

Wow, thanks for the kind comments guys. I'm never really sure how my articles are going to to be received, so it's always nice when they're appreciated :)

A Brief and Incomplete History of Aquascaping I’m guessing Raymond also frowned upon deep sea divers, sunken galleons, and treasure chests too, and with good reason.” A book published in 1970 entitled The Complete Guide to Freshwater Tropical Fish, edited by Raymond Legge, makes one of the...

It's the job of companies like Seachem to discover new and interesting ways to part us from our hard earned cash. It never ceases to amaze me how many products there are on the market that we didn't know we needed until they were invented. Bacteria surround us, and cover every surface on this...

Thanks Darrel, nice science bit as usual :)

No worries Casta ;) I've never needed to use it, or similar products, either to detoxify ammonia etc nor for chloramine. If you don't have critters to worry about I wouldn't bother; just let nature take its course.

I think to get a decent exchange of nutrients and a healthy oxidised microzone etc the gravel/sand grain size needs to be at least around 2-3mm or more.

I don't think you need to worry unduly, typically most composts have a high CEC and so absorb and hold nutrients in a form plant roots can utilise.

Sure, you can use AS Amazonia only. LC will be fine, it's not as good as CO2 though but should still give you good results. If you're just using LC there is no need for a drop checker. Just follow the instructions on the bottle.

Nice looking sand, very natural. Not sure what you mean. Try CO2 Art any of these will do https://www.co2art.eu/collections/complete-co2-systems

If you want to go down the dirted tank route, then yes Aquatic compost and Irish moss peat will work well. You can pretty much use any sand you like. Sand that has a grain size of around 2-3mm is best for reasons I've explained in the tutorial. White sand is fine, but it will show up dirt and...

Water chemistry has never been my strong suit, and perhaps Darrel (@dw1305) might have something better to add. Also, you're in a position that I've never had the good fortunate to be in...I've always lived in very hard water areas. That said, I still don't think you need to be excessively...

Hi risky, thanks, and welcome to UKAPS. I suppose it depends on what you hope to achieve. I guess if you're aiming for a blackwater biotope, then no, not really. However, generally speaking I'd be inclined to used a substrate that contains more nutrients, especially so called hard water...

You can find the Safety Data Sheet for what looks to be the same or very similar product here https://tpprod.blob.core.windows.net/sys-master-tpprodcontainer/h26/hf1/8859717337118/541376.pdf It looks to be a rebranded Westland product. I've used similar Westland products without any issues; it...

Pretty much everything you need for a larger tank https://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=setting-up-a-higher-tech-planted-tank That is with the exception of the equipment that goes in the tank; try to buy equipment that has been specifically made for nanos. It's smaller for obvious practical...

Yeah no doubt, but I still don't think that particular product is suitable...but that's just my opinion. It might be worth it, but for the sake of a few extra quid...? Like I said we used it under a rug and it did it's job very well, but eventually it started to break up...so I should imagine...

No don't use that...great for rugs, not for aquariums...it'll break down in no time at all, it's a kind of latex material and the mesh is too open. We used it under a rug...but I like your lateral thinking;)

I got mine from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Home-Kitchen/Gardman-Greenhouse-Shading-Material-1-2m/B00AV6UQW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495618895&sr=8-1&keywords=gardman+greenhouse+shading It's also available on the role, which overall works out considerably cheaper.

Wow...that's a difficult one for me not having ever kept discuss, so TBH I don't really have a definitive answer, especially since I know many Discus enthusiast keep their fish in bare bottom tanks. If it were my tank though I think I'd be inclined to use a higher percentage of peat and use...

I did in the distant past - loam, grit and peat. Now I just use 1:1 aquatic compost (which is mostly peat) and peat, perhaps with some grit or cat litter. Without the added peat it tends to become very cloddy once it's gone through mineralisation. There also might be an increase in the period...

Hi Progen, sounds like a great project, maybe it'd be a good idea to start your own journal;)

I think it'd be wise to keep them in a temporary home until nitrite and ammonia levels are as near as damn it zero. It's one of the only times I advocate using a test kit. If your filter is cycled it shouldn't take too long, and you may not even experience much of an ammonia spike at all...but...

Hi Will, you can use old nylon tights or similar and fill with pea gravel etc. I tend to use smallish zip up filter media bags that way I can build up slopes in a modular way; it makes it easier to create the type of slope you want. Something like...

It's not an exact science, usually I just dump approximately 1:1 in to an old washing up bowl straight from the bag and mix. If the bag is new or been kept sealed there is usually enough moisture already; you just need enough so it holds its shape. It's easier to sculpt and cap that way. 1 - 2"...

Hi 1. The info you need is under the heading - Water Changes - in the tutorial. 2. Mouldy wood often occurs until the scape reaches biological maturity, it will eventually disappear. In the meantime, once the tank has cycled and it's safe to introduce critters, Amano shrimp will eat it. 3. No...

That's OK both:rolleyes:...nice scape Marcel;)

...This used to be a serious thread:arghh:

Haha...that's embarrassing...

Nice video...it's given me some planting ideas for my latest hi-energy effort:)

It is very light weight and the type I've used for potted plants is fairly fine grained and homogeneous...I suspect that in an aquarium the potential for mess is huge, even with the use of a soil retainer..

I wouldn't ever leave leaves to rot away, for various reasons, not least because it increases organics, encourages algae, and is aesthetically unpleasant. Generally speaking I remove damaged and dying leaves as soon as I notice them if I think the plant can withstand the loss; that can depend...

I've never grown E. ozelot so I can't comment specifically, although all the Echinodorus spp. I've grown low-energy have gone ballistic. But I'd definitely go with the fertz dosing as per tutorial under the heading - Inorganic Nutrient Dosing - you could also try some root tabs. E.ozelot is...

Both will work well, the figures in the tutorial are really just guidelines anyway...have fun;) Good luck Faizal, have you posted pics anywhere?

Hi Alexander, sounds like a great project, good luck. Have you seen this from Plutonow it's a magnificent example of the hybrid method - that is combining soil and CO2 http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-garden-250l-m-pluta.27746/#post-288261

No worries, tannin will reduce light penetration, and that is pretty low PAR - adding another tube would perhaps be a good idea, at least for now...you will still have some control via the photoperiod.

Hi Faizal you're not a bother - I guess you're not filtering through peat? I think eventually the soil will stop leaching tannins and your water should clear but it can take a while. In the meantime keep up with the water changes and try filtering through charcoal.

Looking good, hope it goes well for you;)

That's certainly an option if you want to, it'll give you an opportunity to sift off the floaty bits and perhaps kick start the mineralisation process and help reduce the ammonia spike. Personally, I don't bother, I just bung it in the tank, plug in and play.

Gosh Faizal, now there's a question that's very difficult to answer...it depends on so many variables. I guess I'd be tempted to replace it every month or so. And yes it will discolour the water, but it's often dependent on the amount of peat so you can have some control over by how much. I...

Wow that's a lot of bases you've given yourself to cover...I think your fish will be fine in the container for at least a weekend - perhaps more. Just keep an eye on them. What you have planned sounds OK, but just see how you go and take your time to get it right.

Hey Faizal sorry I missed your post otherwise I'd have replied earlier. How's things? Haven't heard from you much again recently;) It sounds like fun when you put it that way:D I don't think it'll hurt (with the proviso http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/potassium-chloride-kcl.10430/) and I...

Hi Jamie, I think the built in filter will be fine for low-energy and yes the 1:1 mix will also be fine...part of the fun is experimenting, but it's the mix I prefer.

Hi Julian and welcome to UKAPS. Thanks for your kind comments and I'm glad you found the tutorial useful. I wouldn't worry about the quality of your water either, it should be fine. You really don't need too much peat in the filters to get the benefit, I suppose a handful or two is a good place...

I guess that gravel would be a better choice...when it comes to syphoning off mulm (which will accumulate under the moss) gravel is less likely to be disturbed. But I'd also use an overlay of stones as well, something like slate mulch, to which I'd attach the moss. Check out this in the...

Clive, I've read this and your sister article (CO2 Measurement using a Drop Checker) many times...I just want to say thanks for making both so easy to understand...I think sometimes it's easy to take such a resource for granted, especially when it's been around for some time... ...Edvet's Finest...

Thanks Greenfinger...I can't claim all the credit - I've had the benefit of some great contributions from other members...it's a team effort;)

Wow that's a bit bizarre, I know that using moss peat is frowned upon a bit due to environmental and archaeological issues...but it seems readily available on eBay...

Where are you?

Dude it's all in the tutorial...none of it requires mineralizing first, it can be done in situ, and there is absolutely no need to add clay, if you're going to add anything think about extra peat...

Hi, my advice would be to keep it stupidly simple...and cheap, al la my tutorial. Just use a propriety aquatic compost capped with whatever you like aesthetically. As for water changes, check out the relevant section in the tutorial, it'll be good place to start. But 50% once a week is...

Hey faizal hope all is good with you and yours. I've never used it myself but I'd soak it first and give it an occasional stir and remove anything that floats with a sieve. Other than that sounds like a good plan.

Something else that seems to come up frequently is low energy lawns. So I thought it might be an idea to write an introduction and add it as an addendum to the Tutorial. Low-energy lawns and DSM One of the biggest bugbears of the low-energy way is the length of time it can take to establish a...