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constructing better flow

Ghosty

Member
Joined
9 Mar 2015
Messages
187
Hey guys

I had bought two APS 1400ef filters for my jewel 240 about a month ago was going for the 2000ef but at 55w and not even fitting in the cabinet I went with the other

I set them up and there wicked no leaks instant start after a push prime once. Only problem is the spray bars are terrible.

I'm after some help creating a tank long spray bar for both filters. I have my filters run in chain. So number ones ex take is above number twos intake. I need to know how big the holes should be and shat size acrylic pipe to use. I want a strong full flow so I'm asuming the smaller he holes and having holes of different sizes are the gist here but other then that I'm confused
 
Cheers for the link mate all the info I needs there
Just have to figure out a way of mounting the spray bar to the u shape connector
 
Joel, I think you will find the general opinion is a spray bar. I think I saw your other thread earlier and sounded like you had the jets working at different angles which causes a confused flow as they collide. What you are looking for is an even circular flow from top back to top front, down the front glass then back over the substrate towards the rear. From what I have read on these forums, many think that is optimal. If you have two jets, they should both be working in the same direction, like a lilly pipe outlet and a powerhead to boost flow in the same direction,
 
I know exactly what you mean Wisey. What I ended up with was a collision in the front/top/middle part of the tank, driving everything downwards in that one spot, leaving out the back two corners. I experimented a bit and found something that worked out a little better, but when I rescape in two weeks those back two corners are going to be crucial for flow. My hunt for the perfect spray bar shall continue, hopefully my local shop can present me with something rather than a DIY--I already spend too many school hours messing around with my tank!
Thanks for the input,
-Joel
 
For the aquarium I am just setting up, I have a glass Cascade inflow pipe from Aquarium Plant Food, but just went with the Eheim aftermarket spray bar linked below along with an extension kit for it, its a 60cm wide TMC.

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/accessories/installation_installationsSets_4004310

I figure this gets me started for relatively small outlay and it will act as a backup in the future. I hope to get a Cascade glass one at a later date once the tank is established.
 
I just emailed my local shop, hoping to hear back soon. That inflow is far more aesthetically pleasing than the blue ones that come with the XP3. I was honestly trying to figure out how I could hide both of my inflows with my rescape, but with something like that, you'd almost enjoy showing it off. The length of the slits would definitely be nice to have as well in a tall tank like mine. I'm not sure if I want to know what the shipping cost is on getting those from the UK to Oregon though.
 
Ah, yeah, that could cost you a bit! That's a shame! I would offer to stick one in my suitcase for you, but my next business trip has been cancelled so probably wont be in the US before Christmas now.
 
Hey it's tax return season here, might splurge a bit and do it anyways. I've learned the hard way it's always better to spend a little more for the better products than cut corners. Thanks for the information, really appreciate it.
 
Back onto he original subject if you don't min guys I need to get this sorted.

So as long as the inside diameter of the spray bar matches the filters pipes then I do the area of the pipe divided by the number of holes for the hole diameter

Also my pipe connects to a u shape before entering tank witch I'm sure is smaller then the filters pipes. Should I make all the new fixtures have the same side internal diameter?
 
I'm no expert, but I would have said that the best solution would be to match up your internal diameters, if it is smaller then it will restrict flow.
 
But, if you're using an smaller ID, won't be there a higher pressure and therefore a stronger flow?
 
I'm hoping someone answers that question as if its yes I could make the actual spray bar smaller. At all pipes leading up to it the same inside diameter
 
Seems pointless spending that much money on two exit things
All I new to do is get some PVC or acrylic tube to make a sprYbar

What I do need to know is. The tubes need to be of same inside diameter all the way from filter to spray bar?
 
What I do need to know is. The tubes need to be of same inside diameter all the way from filter to spray bar?

yes. Think of a crowd running down a hallway, a narrow door in the middle isn't going to help lol
 
Lol wicked. So would how would I attach my tubing to say an acrylic pipe. As I would probably Mae two 45/ bends from tube to spraybar
 
not sure what people do, I've got fluval hoses so my spraybar is the same (inner) diameter as my hose and I have a rubber connector going over both. If you've got more stretchy pipe you can probably skip the rubber connector and just squeeze the hose over acrylic that has the same inner diameter (warm the hose up if necessary)
 
@Ghosty
Just finished some experients by my one.
If all pipes but the spraybar/outflow(smaller lD, eg. 22/16mm to 16/12mm) are of the same ID, there will be a slight loss of speed but also a higher pressure and a much stronger flow.

It is somehow the concept of the borneo wild stainless steel pipes ( http://www.borneowild.com/pp_steelpipe.php) outflow p series with their dangled/pressed ends.
 
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