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The simple version would be a more powerful filter with a spray bar on the back wall firing forwards - this creates a circular flow along the surface, down the front glass, across the substrate and back up the rear glass.

A powerhead/wavemaker placed under the filter outlet could work but you need to make sure the CO2 is being driven around the tank.
 
it is always at 20 mg /l not getting any growth though

spBZPJ.jpg
 
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Hi George, how's it going?

From what I can see on your pics your plants look fairly healthy, is it the growth rate your concerned about or are there other problems, melting etc? I couldn't quite make out how your filter outlet and powerhead are set up in your pictures, but it looks like they are working against each other somewhat (apologies if I'm mistaken). You need them to be working together to create a nice circular flow. Your tank does seem fairly deep so maybe your struggling with the distribution of CO2 at substrate level. I'd agree with James O about the spray bar although I don't like how they look personally.
 
co2 distribution is fine, im changing diffuser for aesthetical reasons, and also changing ferts, so ill see where that goes, would it be a possibility that the plants are too small to get enough energy to grow, cheers
 
decided to put up some parameters and could some one correct me what i should add or takeaway cheers

co2 . 20ppm
nitrite 0.1 mg/l high ?
nitrate 50 to 100 mg/l high ?
phosphate 0.35
ph 7.4
 
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decided to put up some parameters and could some one correct me what i should add or takeaway cheers
co2 . 20ppm
nitrite 0.1 mg/l high ?
nitrate 50 to 100 mg/l high ?
phosphate 0.35
ph 7.4
Mostly all meaningless fantasy numbers that tell you nothing.


New
im gonna try and get my nitrate way down
Which is the second worst thing you can possibly do. It's too bad you're not listening to the advice already given.

Cheers,
 
First of all, most sites are wrong.
Second of all, most test kits are wrong.
Truth is not democratic.

Here is a tank in which I personally added over 100ppm of NO3 and over 10ppm of PO4.
Those numbers are not bogus test kit readings, like what you are reporting, they are what I added based on the weights of nutrient powders that were added to the tank on a weekly basis.
9633173904_b7603b8fbb_c.jpg


So the failure of your plants to grow cannot be attributed to your test kit readings.

The amount of adjustment you need to make is in unlearning all the horse manure you are being fed from "most sites".

Your CO2 is NOT fine.
Your flow and distribution is NOT fine.
Your tanks nutrient levels are NOT 100ppm NO3 or 0.5ppm PO4.
Your test kits are lying to you.
And that's why you are having difficulty.

I have absolutely no problems growing plants and I do exactly the opposite of what "most sites" say to do.
The posters in this thread giving you advice have all learned to disregard the data from "most sites" and to follow the path that leads to better plant health and growth.

Cheers,
 
gimme your test readings then, so i can get plant growth like you, george

I doubt ceg tests.

If he did, I doubt your home test kit would be sympatico.
Stop measuring with the test kit, use your eyes and experience gained so far and add full ei dosage.
 
im sorry, i cant do that, ive been tweaking a long time and the only way im going to get my water right is testing, take a look at my last pic, thats with ei and co2 ?
 
im sorry, i cant do that, ive been tweaking a long time and the only way im going to get my water right is testing, take a look at my last pic, thats with ei and co2 ?
Hi George, what everyone is trying to explain to you is that tests are useless for your purposes. This is because their level of accuracy is low and they won't be able to give you any interesting information..

What you want is healthy plant growing in your glass cube... Ok, so you have enough light, but the filter turnover and the flow seem very poor. Have a look to other threads and you will find that most of us work with filters rated 10x the volume of the tank. This is because the filter output is measured by manufacturers without media and tubing. Some of them recognize that in operational conditions these values decrease by 50%. Afterwards you will need to manage this good filter turnover the best you can. The idea is to achieve a circular flow that is able to move gently all the plants in your tank and making sure there are no stagnant areas (quite difficult in corners, bottom front, bottom rear). There are plenty of ways to achieve this but a spraybar along the rear glass works fine (place it one inch under the water level with jets looking horizontally... If everything is ok with your filter, jets should hit the front glass)

As mentioned by other posters, water changes are extremely important as they reset the system getting rid of algae, spores, plant debris, etc. You need to change in a high tech at least 40% weekly to really say that you are changing water. In my case I do this twice a week. As you will read in this forum WCs are what you do more frequently and in larger volumes when things go wrong. In your case I would be changing 50% twice a week minimum until you find the way to healthy growing. WC only do good in your tank.

Another important thing is that plants don't really care about the water parameters you mention. Actually they can live in a very wide range of conditions unless you don't provide them with what they need. You (and most of us) are growing very easy plants, with no special chemistry requirements that in fact are weeds causing serious problems in some parts of the planet. They just need some very basic conditions to thrive... And this is light and food. EI dosing relies on that principle: you make sure the water column has enough (unlimited from the plant point of view) nutrients not to starve. It is very important to understand that algae blooms are not due to nutrients excess by itself but to a combination of issues, being one of the most important lack of co2 (the most limit ant nutrient) for the light you have, poor flow to deliver co2 where it is needed and lack of basic nutrients (NPK + microelements). Failure on all this leads to poor plant growth, and plant poor growth (death of plant cells) is one of the signals for algae spores to wake up and invade your tank.

This is why we are recommending you to save your money wasted on test kits that won't give much information on this very important issues described. Your eyes are much better to test how the flow is, how the light is, how the nutrients and co2 delivered are... Thus focus on better flow (you probably need to upgrade your filter), efficient co2 diffusion (bubbling co2 in the tank is not enough, look for dedicated tutorial) and good levels of nutrition (idem). All this, especially in that critical phase should be combined with very good tank husbandry. That's all you need.

Jordi
 
starting to get my rotala growing again.
this may sound like a stupid question, if I add potassium phosphate, is ther any chance it could mess with the nitrates
 
"...mess with the nitrates"?
Not sure what you're asking. If you add potassium phosphate to a tank that is deficient in either potassium or phosphate, this could result in increased utilization of nitrates.
But adding potassium phosphate won't directly increase or decrease the concentration of nitrate.
 
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